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chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
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Apr 24, 2017 - 02:25pm PT
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I remember when Anasazi Velcro was THE shoe. Back then even LaSportiva athletes were resoling new miuras out of the box with C4..... THAT was the crack shoe! Thats what I did. I almost regret giving my Kaukalators to my number one protege. Almost. I wish I could put new rubber on those! Best lady shoe, Evolve electra. They burn up fast. But great comfort and performance. Best dude shoe? Depends on the dude. I like evolve for bouldering. I climb all trad in either TC Pros or Acopa. Yeah, I got three pairs. I sacrificed a pair to a student.......I loved those shoes. But the dude was worthy. Did anyone mention Boreal Aces?
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 24, 2017 - 09:05pm PT
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Em knot's photo, I wish my pair still fit. Id move on after only having toes and 1/4s done. . . . Had four pairs of Mega's, dropped one shoe off Millbrook, and still have the moldy old single,
But not a pair survived.
then also Futura s and kendos.
I skipped resin Rose s one sport
The Mighty Mite - Scott F. was good to me. But the Dolimites, and that 'split' construct?
Did leave impression, didn't last, prolly sucked.
I don't remember.
But the best worst shoes, those eF'N Green Asolo Runouts, fit @ least 1/2 size to small!
The next best worst ?
The black vice s : Sportiva's - Tao's ~> The Tao; Like solar combustion furnaces -
Brutal !
but they sure climb'd quartzite. Point shoes,
I was thinking I could get away with them, in Utah
and ended up climbing part of 'Dangling Participle' bare foot!
I have 3 pairs of the White Syncros . . .
I liked the 1st two generations of blue Ballet, boot where the rand only wrapped the for foot
The golds have a disappointing cardboard foot bed but are full rands.
I wish I could get the Leather bord lasted full rand climbing boot"
Then the Asolo company again had a great Kevlar shoe, and a .yellow slipper shoe. . . .
?????
The Yellow de lamination abomination ! The Dali banana Shoe! Kevin B, gave me a pair 83?
As I was going to say, Scarpa made some good shoes.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Apr 24, 2017 - 09:36pm PT
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Had to love those Taos under a blistering sun!
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Apr 25, 2017 - 09:42am PT
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Like Mark Force, I too have got some recent gems from Barry's Resoles. The black and green Aces and the blue and yellow Aces, both resoled in 5mm XS Edge. The Aces are a really cool shoe for about anything.
Acopa Spectres, Sportiva Muiras and Katanas, and the Aces are my personal favorites.
Barry has a variety of the shoes mentioned in this thread including the Spectres and Aces. Give him a call 559-855-4511.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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Apr 25, 2017 - 10:36am PT
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Scaraps- I think they were called the "Edge"?? Nursed them with resoles until total breakdown.
Acopa Spectres- current kicks, maybe for another resole or two.
I'm looking at the Boreal Golds and think that will be my next shoe.
La Sportivas have just never fit my feet. :( I always try them on and, alas, it's just never quite right.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 25, 2017 - 01:17pm PT
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I have older Anasazis that are great, but Boreal Aces are my favorite. The last fits my foot so well I can wear them tight without them feeling like a Chinese foot binding.
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Mule Skinner
Social climber
Bishop
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Apr 25, 2017 - 08:58pm PT
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The master of all foot work, Hensel climbs in butora's
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Apr 26, 2017 - 08:00am PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 26, 2017 - 10:07am PT
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Sears (maybe JCPenney) work boots (1974)
Dexter hiking boots (1975)
Red PA (1976-1978)
EB (1978-1983)
Boreal Fire, 1st gen (1983-1985)
Original Five Tennie (1984-1986)
Boreal Fire Cat (1986-1987)
Scarpa, blue/yellow hightop (1987)
Five Ten Vertical (1987-1988)
Five Ten Friction Loafer (1987-1990)
One Sport Frenzy (1988-1990)
Asolo teal color low top (1989-1990)
Five Ten Razor green mid-top w/ slingshot rand (1989-1991)
La Sportiva Tao (1990-1997)
La Sportiva Mythos (1995)
La Sportiva blue slipper (1996-1997)
La Sportiva Synchro (1996-2000)
La Sportiva Cliff (2000-2004)
La Sportiva Mega 2nd gen (2000-2007)
Evolv Bandit (2004-2009)
La Sportiva Dru (2009-2014)
 Favorite: La Sportiva Tao
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Apr 26, 2017 - 10:17am PT
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Tar,
That La Sportive Tao was by far my favorite show to date, fit like a glove, just enough downturn and super sensitive. I don't try enough different shoes these days to know if there is an equal but I do miss them. For most of the climbing I do these days a comfy pair of Five Ten Grandstones do the trick.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 26, 2017 - 10:21am PT
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Yes, Bat.
The Tao. Black Lorica synthetic uppers. Never stretched, so always consistent. Slip lasted. Sophisticated heel cup fit like a glove and popped onto the foot like no other.
Very light weight. Fairly stiff: perfect for hard edging and chisel toe box very good for thin cracks.
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Mei
Trad climber
mxi2000.net
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Apr 26, 2017 - 11:08am PT
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Oh gee, that's a tough question.
First pair was purchased less than two years ago. From boat size down to street shoe size, from recently broken in, to newly resoled (~$70/pair!), and to completely beat up... I struggle to pick out my favorite every time.
Click on this link (to the above video in screenshot) to see what these beat up shoes are capable of.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Apr 30, 2017 - 12:56pm PT
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Primary shoes used, in order from when I started:
PAs
EBs
Fire (first gen)
Scarpa Crag Rats
Scarpa Super Rats
Scarpa Le Menestral
Butora Mantra
There have been a few others, but not used as extensively as the above list.
I like thin face/slab climbing so prefer stiffer shoes. After years of not seeing any shoes on the market that appealed to me I saw the Butoras a couple years ago and decided to give them a try. If someone is looking for a stiff face/slab shoe I would definitely recommend them. I'm thinking they may even have become my all time favorite, which is saying something considering how well the Scarpa models fit and worked for me over the years.
Shoes are one of those personal preference things though. One persons favorite may be another person's worst nightmare for performance.
Whatever fits your foot and floats your boat, eh?
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