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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 14, 2009 - 02:21pm PT
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A couple more that have been overlooked
Hollis Marriot aka 'The Last Pioneer Woman' of the Devil's Tower and So Dakota Needles guides. Fa's of many routes in those, and I imagine, other areas. Musician, State Botanist emeritus for the state of Wyoming, I've known her since about the late seventies I ran into her in Blair Wyo (suburban Vedauwoo) summer before last and she's still going strong, though appears to be more into trail running than climbing, right now.
More obscure, but the first woman to climb Devil's tower, back in 1895. Alice Ripley. Odd ascent style by modern standards (wooden stake ladder) but ahead of it's time nonetheless.
"The first ascent was on July 4, 1893 when cowboys William Rogers and W.L. Ripley climbed a ladder of wooden stakes pounded into cracks with lengths lumber attached. A crowd of 500 people watched their daring ascent. Afterwards a party of five climbed the ladder. Alice Ripley, wife of W.L. Ripley, climbed the ladder two years later, becoming the first woman to stand atop it. A dozen other people also ascended the ladder prior to the climbing ascent."
I wonder if she wore cowboy boots? Pretty sure she knew Cat Ballou!
-from facts about Devil's tower http://climbing.about.com/od/wheretoclimb/a/DevilsTower1.htm
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 14, 2009 - 02:35pm PT
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Em of Wyde in action last Saturday
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richross
Trad climber
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Dec 14, 2009 - 02:47pm PT
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Taffy Bunt after descending the Crevice at Skytop,1980.
The best climber waitress at the Mohonk Mountain House.
Taffy on Grey Face.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Dec 14, 2009 - 04:17pm PT
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Geraldine Lucas
Second woman on top of Grand Teton
Sixth ascent of Grand Teton
58-59 yrs old
1924
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L
climber
Fish do WHAT in this water???
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Dec 14, 2009 - 05:07pm PT
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I have a new hero since our first on-site at Thanksgiving:
The Mighty Em of Wyde
As strong in spirit
as she is humble in demeanor,
lending a helping hand before you even have time to ask,
an excellent chef
and an evil purveyor of The Demon Chocolate (the best I've ever tasted),
full of gentle humor and wisdom
and an abundance of compassion
(even for big black hairy spiders in kitchens)...
yet will throw herself at a quartz-monzonite gristle-fest OW in the blink of an eye,
with a damn the torpedoes! sort of glee which makes Real Men feel kinda Real Whimpy...lol!
She's my new hero...The Mighty Em of Wyde.
(see Jaybro's photos above)
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Here's a photo of Dianne Westman, one of the girls Frank Sacherer climbed with in his early days, along with Chela Varrentzoff Kunasz.
In 1969/1970 Bruce Albert worked as a page at the Seattle Public Library where Dianne worked as a librarian.
They went climbing in Leavenworth once or twice and she described having climbed in Yosemite with Frank, Steve Roper, and others & related having been somewhat terrified by stuff Frank did unroped.
She also gave Bruce two or three old Chouinard carabiners which are stamped "KLR".
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Margaret Young, alpinist.
Tom Cochrane recently posted a nice trip report on the first recorded winter ascent of Temple Peak (Wind Rivers), with Jim Richardson and Margaret Young, around New Year's in 1966.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1116586&msg=1136769#msg1136769
Jan suggested more should be posted about Margaret Young, in this thread.
Here is her obituary, by Arlene Blum, from the 1980 AAJ:
MARGARET YOUNG
1932-1979
Margaret Young, an AAC member since 1973, died of cancer on
June 17, 1979, after a 27-year mountaineering career including climbs
in the U.S.A., Canada, Mexico, Ecuador, Bolivia, Kenya, Iran, Afghanistan,
Russia, Nepal, and England. Among her first ascents were Monja
Grande in Ecuador, and the south summit of the Moose’s Tooth in Alaska.
She made numerous first ascents and first winter ascents of peaks and rock
climbs in the Sierra Nevada, and first and last ascents of rock routes
in the Glen Canyon area of Arizona (last because the routes are
now covered by the waters of Lake Powell). She delighted in making
first descents, for example the first descent from Upper to Lower Yosemite
Falls by rope and rubber raft.
Margaret made a major contribution to the development of women’s
climbing. In 1970 she was a member of the first all-women’s team
to climb Mount McKinley. In 1972 she reached the summit of
Noshaq [24,580'] in Afghanistan, and with Alice Liska shared the altitude record
for women from the Western Hemisphere. Among her climbs with Vera
Watson, her frequent climbing partner, were Mount Robson, first ascents
of two peaks on the Grueningk Glacier, the first all-women’s ascent in
winter of Pigeon and Howser Spires, and in 1977 the first all-women’s
ascent of Sajama (21,424 feet), the highest peak in Bolivia. Of all her
peak climbs, Monja Grande in Ecuador was her favorite.
She brought her analytical skills to bear on her favorite activities -climbing,
flying, caving and hang gliding-accepting inherent risks and
proceeding with maximum control and safety. A superb photographer,
she made stereo pairs of peaks and climbing routes for scientific study
and for planning climbs. Less widely known are her sensitive photographs
of the minutiae of the mountain world-small flowers, mineral crystals,
knotty wood.
In August 1977, Margaret was thrown from a horse and paralyzed,
but she maintained an extraordinary level of activity. Having time to
devote to her longtime interest in solar energy, she designed a solar
heating system for use in her home. In the fall of 1978 she was a member
of the National Science Foundation’s panel on science and the handicapped.
She contributed to the American Women’s Annapurna I Expedition
by making concentrated wine by a process she had invented, as well as
pickets, flukes, cable ladders, etc.
In her last years Margaret had many cruel blows-paralysis, the loss
of her friend Vera Watson, and finally cancer-but she treated them
calmly and matter-of-factly.
Margaret had rare imagination and determination-truly a unique
woman, an innovative climber, and an inspiring friend.
ARLENE BLUM
Denali Damsels slideshow, on Arlene Blum's site:
http://www.arleneblum.com/chap8_10_comp/index.html
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MentalEnergy
Trad climber
Riverside, California
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Apr 19, 2010 - 11:24pm PT
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Hello everyone!
Does anyone know where Annie-Marie Rizzi is located? I found out about her being on the www.supertopo.com website, by using the Google.com search engine. I have not seen Annie-Marie Rizzi, or any other Yosemite Valley rock climber, I knew in 1972, in over 35 years!
I do not know if Annie-Marie Rizzi, remembers me at all! My name, before I changed it, was 'Roy Naasz'. I lived, worked at the Curry Village Mountain Shop, and rock climbed ( I was leading 5.10c ) in Yosemite Valley National Park, around 1972. Some how, I met Annie-Marie Rizzi, at the Yosemite Lodge or the old Camp 4. I ended up climbing with her, in Yosemite Valley, on the climb mentioned in the
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing message below:
Discussion Topic
The Chick History Thread
Apr 5, 2008 - 09:22pm PT
" ... climb my first complete wall on the Chouinard-Herbert for my 21st birthday ..."
At least, I think Annie-Marie Rizzi, was the young girl, I climbed the Chouinard-Herbert, on Sentinel Rock with! I remember the night we bivouaked, on a small ledge, about half-way up that climb. We both answered the call of nature, hanging off that small ledge. We finished that climb, when it became dark, so we bivouaked again, on the very top of Sentinel Rock. I was bitten by a small rodent while I was sleeping, I was about 24 years old at that time, was 5'11" tall, weighed 175 lbs and wore John Lennon type silver metal eyeglasses.
Let me tell everyone why I am trying to contact Annie-Marie Rizzi! This is going to sound very strange, to Annie-Marie Rizzi, and everyone else reading this message. About a year ago, Annie-Marie Rizzi appeared in a night time dream I had! She talked to me in that dream, for a few moments, then gave me a hug, and then that dream abruptly ended!
That dream shocked me! Never in my life, has a friend or relative, appeared in my night time dreams! I did remember Annie-Marie Rizzi, in Yosemite, once in a great while, but my memories of her, were just past history. I never thought I would ever see her again. But for this whole past year, I have been thinking about that dream, I had of talking with her! I kept trying to figure out, how Annie-Marie Rizzi, could appear in my dreams! I thought she was dead, and somehow, from the next realm, Annie-Marie Rizzi was communicating with me.
Many times in the last year, I kept thinking I should try and track Annie-Marie Rizzi down, using the Internet, to see if she were even alive! But I made no effort in that direction, until today! Just in the past week, the memories of a friend, I used to know, when I was in high school, were coming into my mind. This morning, I called the business, where my friend used to work, many years ago, and asked them if they knew what happened to him. They said he had died!
When I heard that my friend, whom I was starting to remember again, had died, I was galvanized into action! I decided immediately, that I had to find out if Annie-Marie Rizzi was even alive! I was having memories of her, from that dream, I just mentioned, and I wanted to know what the reality of Annie-Marie Rizzi's existence was!
As I said, at the start of this message, I found out about Annie-Marie Rizzi being on the www.supertopo.com website, by using the Google.com search engine. Until this morning, I did not know the www.supertopo.com website, even existed! I immediately registered as a member, on that website, so I could send this message.
So now, Annie-Marie Rizzi and every other rock climber, who might be reading this message, if what I am saying to you is correct, about my having climbed with Annie-Marie Rizzi, over 35 years ago, let me know. I would like very much to hear from Annie-Marie Rizzi or other rock climbers, who knew me in Yosemite Valley around 1972.
I now live in Riverside, California ( Didn't Annie-Maria Rizzi, used to live here? ). I changed my name from 'Roy Naasz', to 'Derek Starr', in 1990.
What ever Annie-Marie Rizzi, or any other rock climber decides to do, with regards to reading this message, have FUN! And definitely say hello to these two other girls, who I have also climbed with: Sibylle Hechtel ( Leaning Tower) and Bev Johnson ( Mt Clarence King, while Bev worked at 'West Ridge' with Don Lauria, 1969 (??) ).
Derek Starr
Just a little note; I put up the Joshua Tree rock climb - "Walk on the Wild Side", mentioned in the following Internet links, while I was attending UCLA, as mathematics major ( I rock climbed, more than I studied! ). I called the climb - "Walk on the Wild Side" - because leading and putting the bolts in on that rock climb, took me three seperate weekend trips, from UCLA to Joshua Tree. I just kept getting rained off that route ( Fall of 1969 ), as I was climbing it. The name "Walk on the Wild Side", seemed appropriate, given the rainy weather, I kept having to put up with.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/joshua_tree_national_park/sheep_pass_area/105721828
http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/classicclimbs/wildside/
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 20, 2010 - 03:38am PT
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Derek,
Her most recent post to this forum was in January 2010, so most likely she is still alive.
Having an old friend appear in a dream may feel significant to you, but it will probably not feel significant to them, because random factors influence dreams.
But if you have some good memories of the times you spent with a person, that could be a more acceptable reason for contacting them.
I don't know Anne-Marie or you, but I did know Andy Embick, and he once told me about the accident with you on Lost Arrow Direct.
There is some discussion of it on a thread here at supertopo:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=373143&tn=20
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MentalEnergy
Trad climber
Riverside, California
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Apr 20, 2010 - 02:33pm PT
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Clint Cummins,
Thank-you so much for your reply to my message, about Anne-Marie Rizzi. I did have a good time with Anne_Marie, on that Chouinard-Herbert ascent, otherwise, I would never sent my message to SuperTopo. You say everybody has dreams, for different reasons, and I agree with you. I had serious misgivings about composing the SuperTopo message, that you just read. But, I just decided to go for it! I sent that message, and started wondering what was going to happen in my life because of SuperTopo?
You live in the San Francisco Bay area. My very last memory of Anne-Marie Rizzi, was visiting her at her apartment in the Bay area. That visit occured, a year or two, after I left Yosemite Valley, in 1972/1973.
But, that is enough discussion, about that topic. Thanks for giving me that Big Rock, SuperTopo link. I definitely remember Randy Vogel, and of course Andy Embick ( I have not seen Andy, since I lived in Yosemite Valley. ) Some of the climbers, who mentioned my name, on that Big Rock, discussion, I may not remember that well. But I am grateful, that those climbers remember me! I am going to try and contact Randy Vogel, thru SuperTopo, in the immediate future.
Derek Starr
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Apr 20, 2010 - 03:13pm PT
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Derek, Wow great to see you posting here. It has been a long time since we have talked. Sent you an email with hopes of getting more memories of early Joshua Tree climbing
Derek also established Orange Flake, White Lightning and Scared Bare [freed and now called Desert Song]. He was way ahead of his time in exploring Joshua tree's potential outside of Hidden Valley.
Anyway, hope all is well with you.
R Vogel
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#310
Social climber
Telluride, CO
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Apr 20, 2010 - 07:26pm PT
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I talked with Anne Marie 2 days ago. I just emailed her to check this thread. Anne Marie gets email and the web at her local library and does not always surf through all new Super Topo stuff. I am not sure when she will get to the library to check mail and super topo - probably by the end of this week.
Margaret Young was a huge mentor to Annie Whitehouse and taught Annie how to climb. I was glad to see Margaret appear in this thread. Annie just left the US for a 6 month assignment with Doctors Without Borders in Africa.
Kathy
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Vulcan
Sport climber
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Apr 20, 2010 - 07:29pm PT
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Katie Brown
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Apr 21, 2010 - 02:30pm PT
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Wow, more tales from the old school, popping out here on Supertopo!
Thanks Derek.
You need to start your own Climbing Recollections thread, and get off this chick history thread,,,,
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Apr 21, 2010 - 02:37pm PT
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Hi Derek
Thank you for that story! Very cool.
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Apr 21, 2010 - 03:20pm PT
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There are a number of other female climbers from the early days of climbing in the Northeast that surely deserve a mention on this thread. Miriam Underhill, from Boston, was one of the leading female climbers of the 1920s and 30s. Most of her best climbing was done in the Alps where the Via Miriam on the Torre Grande in the Dolomites is named in her honor. As well she participated in the first ascent of the traverse of the Aiguilles du Diable in Chamonix which was one of the hardest granite rock routes of the era. Both these were guided ascents, as was typical of the era, but Miriam also participated in a number of first guideless womens' ascents of major alpine routes. In this country she accompanied her husband, Robert, the leading US climber of the time,on numerous New England ascents, as well as in explorations of various western ranges. Elizabeth Knowlton was another noted New England climber of the era who participated in, and wrote a book about, an early expedition to Nanga Parbat. Even earlier Fannie Bullock Workman was a very active Himalayan explorer and climber at the beginning of the 20th century. Given the gender barriers and biases of those years all of the early women climbers had to have been amazingly strong and determined individuals. As has been mentioned before, this thread has focussed primarily on North American women, and there is a much greater pool of examples amongst overseas climbers. Just one, of many, worth mentioning is British climber Gertrude Bell, who made several very impaotant ascents in the 20th century, but then went onto a career in the British Foreign Service dealing with the Middle East,amongst other "accomplishments"in the aftermath of the First World War she was the primary architect of the country known as Iraq!!!!
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