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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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If I was the marketing guy at Rawl, I would totally sponsor Todd Gordon.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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stance drilling is ghey..
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Anybody ever fallen off while drilling a bolt from stance? Let's hear the stories or I will have to bore you with mine.
Why don't you start the ball rolling, Bruce.
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domngo
climber
Canada
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bump. Came upon this photo on my pc - anyone know the details?
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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O Yeah! Put the drill in yer chalkbag and go for it! What the hell were we thinking??!! Good Times BITD.
Best stance driller I know of: the late "Doc" Baine
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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DMT, I loved getting to that perfect stance! hahaha Then John took it way up and over with gear to put in that last one. Probably won't repeat that one. lol
Love Todd's Dummy Dome goodness!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Somebody ain't in very good drilling shape!
GET some!!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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LOL, classic. Be sure to tell John that, cuz I was ready to drill like 5 more bolts.
:)
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Aug 19, 2012 - 02:24am PT
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So stoked, just did put in my first bolts on lead and did them from stances. There was a route missing the 2nd bolt and 3rd bolt, so it wasn't crazy bad ass, but still pretty legit.
I had to drill a new hole cuz that one still had part of the sleeve and the cone in it.
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Aug 20, 2012 - 04:52am PT
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We even drill ground up, often from free stances, right here in France, the capital of rap bolting. We have no wilderness regulations regarding power drills, consequently power drills are used in almost all cases. And although hand drilling is rare now, it was certainly the way Piola put up a great number of his earlier routes.
This is a major SE facing gneiss/granite cliff, close to Chamonix. It's about 350m, (8 > 11 pitches) at its highest point and has about 20 routes from 6a+ > 7b. Most are fully bolted though a couple are hard trad/mixed. The summit is at 2600m. Walk in - in approach shoes - no snow/glaciers etc. You might just see another couple of parties up there if you're unlucky.
... and a view to die for:
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Use a pin,....save your skin.......(use a chock...save the rock)...
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