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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Try to take you mind off the election...here's a distraction...
https://www.instagram.com/p/BMk83KehdOC/
Led pitch 10 no falls, hopes for one more day of working pitches two days of rest and then go for it in a push.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Remember this: There's a 5.12 flare way up there, a few pitches from the top, that Kevin thought was absolutely horrendous. So this is not just face climbing and lybacking. I think what Adam is doing is great, like the old boxers who would never duck the hard opponents. He's going for the big challenge like a champ.
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Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
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That's right Largo! I was wondering how he'd fare on that flare. It's awesome that he just crushed it onsight! It's time to make bets for how many days the final push will take him. I think 5-6 realistically, but since he's blown all my expectations out of the water, I'm willing to bet he's gonna get up it in 4 days!
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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I certainly would not bet against him! In that instagram video he sounds pretty confident, and he has never been given to hubris. Very cool to see this happening, I suspected he would try it at some point, but I never thought it would be this soon. Also, it's clear that this owes a lot to Tommy and Kevin's efforts, as simply finding the path was a tremendous amount of work.
It's nice to have something to be psyched up about!
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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adam.ondraOne more day on the wall;-) Pitch 10 5.14a in the bag. For me the hardest pitch besides the two traverses (14 and 15).
https://www.instagram.com/p/BMk-adqA9VI/
"The push is getting closer. I hope one day of work and two days of rest and we all set...."
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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it's been pretty cool following this guy Ondra on his quest. Go get 'em!
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Loco de Pedra
Mountain climber
Around the World
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Nov 10, 2016 - 11:12am PT
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Ondra will for sure send it free. I would put my money on that
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Nov 10, 2016 - 09:07pm PT
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@pavelblazek - Just enjoying the rest day today. Adam kept his promise and we went for the Chinese massage 😀 I got special treatment for pulled muscle in the back, Adam asked for extra massage of his forearms. On a bit sober note (in my case) if I don't get any better I won't be able to support Adam on his final push. I would probably be just too slow to follow him - seeing him to work on the route so hard day and night - I'm obviously the last person wanting to be the party pooper 🙂
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As of right now the plan is to go back to the pitch #3 tomorrow - there was some surprisingly hard move - than have two days rest and start the push on Monday.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BMpoeXQhtnF/
I hope he is able to go climb with Adam on the push. Would be nice to be there for the final result after putting this much time/effort in so far.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 10, 2016 - 09:32pm PT
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It's wonderful seeing someone so talented and so committed moving out of his comfort zone into a new milleu. He isn't concerned about protecting his reputation. He's just a free spirit and a brilliant climber who want's to explore the upper limits of climbing possibility wherever that might be.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Nov 10, 2016 - 09:42pm PT
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if I don't get any better I won't be able to support Adam on his final push
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Nov 11, 2016 - 11:52am PT
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https://www.facebook.com/blackdiamondequipment
Update: Ondra’s Psych for the Push is High
“Two more days of work on the wall. The first day my goal was to send pitch 10 (5.14a), which is possibly the most difficult pitch besides the two crux traverses because it is long, bold, always wet and with the crux at the very top. I did it and then worked and got very confident on pitches 11, 12 and 13 (5.13c, 5.14b and 5.13b).
“Yesterday I woke up on the portaledge with a pretty bad cold and fatigue. I was even considering going down straight away, but in the end I decided to go up to pitch 20 and 21 (5.13c and 5.13d) to get them dialed. In the afternoon, I wanted to work pitches 1-6 so I would be done with all the preparation for the push. But pitch 3 (5.13c) turned out to be more cryptic than expected and I haven’t found any satisfying beta. So I need a couple of hours to work on this pitch before I feel ready for the push.
“Anyway, the life on the wall, '2 days climbing, 1 day rest' regime has beaten both of us and Pavel and I need a good rest. So we are checking out the weather forecast and planning the push accordingly, but we will definitely not start in two days as we were planning. First I need to get 100% healthy (get rid of the cold) and spend a few more hours on pitch 3.
“But the psych for the push is high! I guess I just need a little more patience. Even though it’s hard to be in such a beautiful place and rest!”
–BD Ambassador Adam Ondra, November 10, 2016.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Nov 11, 2016 - 02:09pm PT
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What's the word on the dyno pitch? Isn't the best boulderer on the planet going to do it that way?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Nov 11, 2016 - 02:21pm PT
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Keep growing skin, Adam!
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Nov 11, 2016 - 02:25pm PT
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In addition to the physical ability and the will power of a champion, I'm really impressed with the mental ability to remember that much beta. I can't remember details for a single pitch let alone that many intricate pitches.
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JimT
climber
Munich
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Nov 12, 2016 - 10:42am PT
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Thought it was just me and old age, I´m lucky to remember three moves in a row!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Nov 12, 2016 - 11:15am PT
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I'm lucky to remember the name of the climb the moves were on.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Nov 12, 2016 - 12:21pm PT
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If anything, I guess the message was clear: This is an F'ing hard route.
I thought that the best climber in the world might stroll up the route, but he, like Tommy, had to learn how to climb merely vertical rock with micro edges.
It isn't typical sport climbing. It is very different. If any of these pitches were one pitch routes, they wouldn't be popular, because the hardest routes are all super overhanging cave routes, and that is what the best climbers are good at. Not merely vertical routes with razor holds that shred skin.
My hat is off to Ondra for putting in the work. Remember that Tommy spent years on it. I'm really pulling for him to send it. It validates the route as one of the hardest big climbs in the world.
So Yosemite is important again, because of the free routes on the Captain. If Ondra came, so will others.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Nov 12, 2016 - 05:50pm PT
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Nice post Base104
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