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H
Mountain climber
there and back again
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It looks like it has the small hole for the old carabiners.
Marty awesome thread. PM me your address I have something for you.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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A very thorough thread, but the one glaring omission I see is Metolious hangers. I don't recall when they hit the market, either late 80's or early 90's but at the time they were the best US made hanger out there with a large clip in and a well rounded shape that was rope and climber friendly. They were also the first to my knowledge to offer hangers that were coated to allow them to blend into the rock.
There were also as far as I know the first to offer an integral hanger/lowering option with their extra thick hangers with radiused opening.
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Evdawg
Trad climber
Sacramento/S. Tahoe
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Interesting thread so far. Does anyone know what hanger this is? It was recently placed at one of our local coastal crags in Humboldt County, CA by an unknown individual.
It is odd because the bolt fits inside the loop, as opposed to on the side like most hangers (i wish I had a top angle photo). Makes me wonder how they hammered it in.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Found this below Dolt Tower recently. That's probably an original Nose hanger, there were a good number of those (most were broken off, just a fragment of the hanger along with the bolt) on the first half of the Nose when we were doing replacement in 2000 or so. They were always coupled with a 3/8" Star-Dryvin bolt.
We just removed and patched most of them, there were typically other bolts/anchors nearby, or good pro.
As far as I've been told, the hanger that broke in the infamous Rohrer rap route accident was a Dolt hanger, so it wouldn't have looked anything like that.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2016 - 08:52pm PT
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evdawg - that is possibly a Petzl roof hanger.
Sorry that I have been absent from the thread. It's comp season again in Arizona and I am already sending!!! Oh yeah!!! My mind and muscles are on the prize! QCBC then the Beta Boulder Blast. Then hopefully a citizens comp during the summer OR show, then Flagstaff roof rally in September. Bring on the face paint! At the gym we are hosting a local Youth USA Climbing rope comp this weekend so if I am not in the comp, I am probably the setter and MC for it. Its tough in Arizona to keep the zebras off of the stage!
I believe Metolius hangers were first made in 1989. I will see Doug Phillips in the summer and that already is one of my questions for him. Doug is Metolius's master designer.
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Epcclimber
Big Wall climber
Cincinnati, ohio
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Gerry Aluminum hanger removed from a climb at Red River Gorge yesterday.
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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^^^^^^^^
This Star Dryvin at Red River was not put in correctly. If you look at the photo you should see a ring underneath the 'star' bolt which are the two sleeves which provide the holding power for the bolt. It looks to me that in this photo the sleeves were put in underneath the hanger. This incorrect installation makes the bolt very weak with regard to pullout strength and most likely shear strength as well.
Did you find the two sleeves underneath the hanger?
BTW, we see this a lot at Pinnacles National Park. It's pretty alarming that people can't figure out how to put in a bolt correctly.
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Epcclimber
Big Wall climber
Cincinnati, ohio
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Apr 27, 2016 - 11:23pm PT
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I'm unsure how it would have been put in differently given the hole size of the hanger, neither the bolt nor the hanger have been manufactured since I've been alive though so I'll have to take your word for it! Besides the improper installation I think being 1/4"er that is 50 years old with an aluminum hanger might have also led to it being pretty weak! Luckily despite being on a very popular route it was seldom fallen on. I worked at it with a wonder-bar for several minutes but surprisingly couldn't pry the bolt itself out, eventually it broke off from working it back and forth. The sleeves (rust glob) were visible behind it.
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Apr 27, 2016 - 11:47pm PT
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^^^^^^
Yup! With Star Dryvins sometimes they can get so rusted that the nail just will not come out. That looks like the case here.
At the Pinnacles National Park we had one first ascentionist who thought it was a good idea to glue the nail into the sleeves. Unfortunately, he put up a lot of routes in the 1980's. The only way to get those bolts out is to chop them and drill a new hole. What a mess.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2016 - 01:47pm PT
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October 15 2016 gear swap at the AZ Hiking Shack. I noticed a small red bag on the AMC booth table which was selling for only $15. When I poured it out the first thing I saw was a Dolt Step-On hanger. It is Wally’s small bolt kit from 1959. Also there are a few Gerry “Pop-Top” hangers and a aluminum hand drill. Wally had a larger bolt kit for sale as well and when I poured that out there was a second Dolt Step-On hanger sitting there. One has a 1/4 bolt hole and the other 3/8. Other hangers are thin Leeper and Doug Black ring rap hanger c1964. I love the square head steel bolts. Both of these bolt kits belong in a museum!
Another gem that was on the table was two mid 1940s Fritsch & Cie Zurich wafer pitons, a 1940s Holubar hammer and 1940s Holubar hammer holster. I was able to hold the items but they were already sold to another friend of Wally’s.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 19, 2016 - 02:48pm PT
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Self-drills and aluminum drill holder / setting tool - pretty old school.
Hard to remove when placed well also.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Nov 19, 2016 - 06:40pm PT
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Harding from Mt. Conness. Flip Flop and Fly.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2016 - 08:42pm PT
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Flip Flop - The opening story on this thread shows that when putting up the Nose route Harding used store bought hangers and the other hangers were made by Bill Dolt. Harding wasn't known for making his own hangers. So what you have could have been placed by Harding, but "maybe or maybe not" be made by Harding.
However you have an awesome artifact!!!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Nov 19, 2016 - 08:53pm PT
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this really cool hanger is on Screaming Meanie on Rogers Rock. daks seems to be made from aluminum
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2016 - 07:11am PT
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New museum display at the Phoenix Rock Gym
The old climbing store space at the Phoenix Rock Gym has been sitting for a while, so I decided it would be a perfect location for some of the museum trinkets. Successfully I have found more glass patio doors to create the display with, which will be easier to keep the gym chalk dust out of the display. The display is 7’ tall x 13’ in length and will hold half of the bolting equipment (around 1000 items) in the Karabin Climbing Museum. First order of business is to do some sticker repairs on the floor so I got my friend Summit Cox to assist in the sticker peeling sticking frenzy fun. The sticker floor was originally created in 2006 for the AZ Cliff Hanger climbing store. Thanks to the many climbing manufacturers for their sticker support!
In the gym the store space is becoming the Lizard Lounge/ Karabin Climbing Museum. I am totally psyched to have a place to show the museum items to the public. So phase one of the display is complete! Many of these display panels I put together while my kids were in diapers 17 years ago, and the display was then dragged from one storage unit to another until now! The display so far is comprised of hand drills, hooks, hammers and some of the bolt hangers. The second half of the display will show another 1000 bolt hangers. Fun! Thanks to the many people who donated to the museum to make this display happen.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2016 - 07:16am PT
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Already I see a few edit items in the museum photos. Some of the Stubai and Salewa hammers date back to the mid 1950s. The Bill Sewrey square head hammer dates back to 1955 or later. Still looking for a date of when Doug Black first started making gear.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2017 - 11:12am PT
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Thanks DMT!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2017 - 12:18pm PT
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Over the holiday I brought home a few more beer cans from my moms house. The four shown in the photo are from around 1960-1961 era when flat top cans were going to Pull Tabs, or Pop Tops. The Gerry bolt hanger was referred to as the Pop Top hanger since they looked similar to the pull tabs on the soda and beer cans. Shown in the photo is a late 1950s pipe bracket, a Gerry bolt hanger and a can pull tab. There were many designs to the pull tabs during this time.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2017 - 01:16pm PT
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GCF - Yes I believe you asked about Metolius earlier on this thread. I talked to Doug Phillips in August but have not had time to dial in the correct history. But since you give another request I will throw this out here for now. Yes Metolius created the perfect bolt hanger for its time which was around 1989 time, but I believe a similar type shape Petzl hanger was being sold in the USA around 1985. I know I have an early Metolius catalog which I will share in a bit.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2017 - 01:40pm PT
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I believe Metolius started in 1987 but I need to look into that date. Here shown is Metolius first catalog c1988 and the only bolt shown is the Metolius Bolt, which I call the Honker bolt since there is a awesome 5.12 route on Mount Lemmon AZ called Honker that Hidetaka Suzuki sent but I could not get free. In the book description Eric Fazio Rhicard even states "then climb right to big honking bolts." Good times!
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