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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Bump for Primo face climbing stories...
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Jan 22, 2015 - 01:39pm PT
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Bumping for more tidbits and recollections of this fantastic era.
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Port
Trad climber
Norwalk, CT
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Jan 22, 2015 - 01:43pm PT
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Climbed with Kevin in San Diego Co when he was just establishing Eagle Peak. Had no idea who he was at the time. Cool f*#king guy.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jan 22, 2015 - 02:34pm PT
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Throwing caution to the wind, we kicked steps to the top of the snow cone at the base of the “Central Pillar of Frenzy” and chatted with the climbers waiting to climb.
Roger, the first Grade V I ever attempted was the Chouinard-Pratt in April of 1971. Back then, Chouinard-Pratt was predominantly an aid climb, and the CPOF hadn't been done yet. We were so intimidated at the thought of being on a wall that climbing to the top of the moat scared us to death, and we ended up turning back low on the route. It turned out to be fortuitous, because it snowed that night and stormed for two more days.
Also, I, too, can't figure the purpose of those bolts near Powell-Reed. I remember when Stoner's Highway got put up, because I had just recently climbed Powell-Reed. At about the 500-foot level of Powell-Reed, the "fine route" (Roper's words) turned into about 100 feet of munge, with water dripping down it. I found it quite a bit more difficult than anything below, and I eventually resorted to some aid a bit higher, but there is a lot of beautiful rock near that route, and we thoroughly enjoyed Powell-Reed, munge and all.
John
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Jan 23, 2015 - 10:30am PT
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Clint wrote:
Getting close, but not quite - it's a big rock!
The (2 belay) bolts on Sacherer-Fredericks were replaced by Erik Strom in 2003:
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/rep/036ysacf.txt
Still to be replaced (as I understand it):
a couple of rusty 3/8" belay bolts on Space Babble
Tour de Force (taper bolts; should be pretty good)
Central Pillar of Frenzy extension, belay bolts at top of p8
Pieces of Eight, top of p6 and maybe p5
Paradise Lost, all replaced by Roger in May, except a couple he missed up high (on p7?)
Ho Chi Minh Trail, one on p1 var start, one on p10
North Buttress, p15 (probably still original), the p11 bolt was added in the 80s/90s
Mother Earth, p11 bolt ladder, anchor bolts on p12 and p16.
Smith-Crawford, p7-12
Wondering if this list has been updated since your post, Clint? Is the Paradise Lost p7 lead dodgy with the missed bolts, do you think?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 19, 2015 - 08:14pm PT
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more tales of Kevin Eleven
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 19, 2015 - 10:58pm PT
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there are days that being eleven would be truly wonderful...
but neither you nor I will ever be that again.
Thanks for the correction, Five Eleven Kevin...
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Feb 19, 2015 - 11:54pm PT
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Being 11 again now would be horrible. Worrying about what cell phone to get, listening to Katy Perry... If you ever went climbing, it'd be in a gym. You'd probably get childhood obesity and never end up climbing. Forget that!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 20, 2015 - 12:14am PT
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I have one and for that spawn I am so greatful,
adventures are just starting out, for the little
Monster,
no crap Muzak or top down power drilled high bolt count
Lines, OLD SCHOOL groundup it's up to us to bring 'em up right!
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2015 - 03:44am PT
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Poetry of an age: It's actually Five Eleven Kevin. Ramon, the suave black bellman/coke dealer for years at the Ahwahnee named me that, and every time he saw me he'd get a big grin on his face and say "Five Eleven Kevin!" With the kind of rhythm only a brother can muster.
I would not want to be eleven again, but I would not mind being five eleven again if it denoted my skill.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Feb 20, 2015 - 07:40am PT
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What a great thread, so much good stuff in here and cool to read your guys stories. Thank you. So glad you are apart of this forum The Warbler.
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youknow
Trad climber
W of the Pecos
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Jun 16, 2015 - 06:59pm PT
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Hey Kev, Hope you're okay. I'm living in the Lone Star State, temporarily. You know, N.
P.S. Who "outed" Ramon?? thought he was your friend. . .
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Jun 16, 2015 - 07:11pm PT
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At one of Todd's get togethers.....
TY
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 23, 2017 - 09:46am PT
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Bump for tell it all tall tales...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 15, 2018 - 02:39pm PT
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Sadly, CMAC & RJ have seen fit to vaporize all of Kevin Worrall's writings on the Supertopo forum.
Kevin always, to my knowledge, comported himself very well in his communication here on the forum, especially so on the controversial threads which got him banned and his entire retinue of posts deleted.
That's the part of it that just seems wrong: he rarely, if ever used foul language or invective. If so, then very, very rarely, but I never saw it. Certainly he was persistent with some of his views, which was his downfall, as I understand it.
CMAC and RJ don't make sense, from the standpoint of valuing historicity and respect for rational discourse.
Game over, for a metric ton of valuable stories, insight, and commentary, from one of the most valued members of our climbing community, Kevin Worrall.
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Trump
climber
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Oct 15, 2018 - 04:06pm PT
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Right? Kind of makes me wonder what I’m doing here. I might start jotting my fine thoughts down on toilet paper instead.
On the flip side, I’ll bet CMac and RJ know what they’re doing here. Sorry if we don’t like it while posting to their site.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Oct 15, 2018 - 05:14pm PT
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getting kicked off this place is a blessing
anyone with over 1,000 posts on this site should be kicked off immediately in my view
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Oct 15, 2018 - 05:19pm PT
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^you do understand that the internet is still largely anonymous (in the immediate sense, strictly speaking), right? throwaway accounts would just grow if that policy (or furtherance of the banhammer) were set in effect. ^
and yeah, agree with Roy: the Warbler was polemical but not overboard as far as I saw or knew. pretty silly to erase the historical and important recollections of action on rock that Worall contributed. That kinda thing is pretty much why I wanna be here talkin' to the old dogs.
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Oct 15, 2018 - 05:19pm PT
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anyone with over 1,000 posts on this site should be kicked off immediately in my view
^ Do you know that was post 2,011 for you? ;-)
pretty silly to erase the historical and important recollections of action on rock that Worall contributed
I completely agree. I can think of quite a few posters who had valuable beta and historical content, who have been similarly booted. It's NOT a very clued in way to run a site imo, no matter who owns it or pays the electrical bills.
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johntp
Trad climber
Little Rock and Loving It
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Oct 15, 2018 - 05:22pm PT
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Seems we have two threads discussing this.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!