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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Sep 15, 2016 - 09:22pm PT
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Warbs, my hunch is that our experience in America is based on what we have learned in in English. The stories in German and Italian have rarely been translated. I received the Austrian and Dolomite history from a climbing buddy from Austria that caused me to do some research about the old climbs there. Jeezum, those guys were good. What Robbins started doing in So.Cal just begins to match what these guys were doing in the early-1900s.
Smells Field gained its rep because of the English speaking climbers there and Mountain Mag. In Cham I got to learn what the Czechs and the Poles were doing in their climbing regions indicated a crazy level of skills. These stories took many hours to extract from these remarkable climbers.
What you were doing in Yosemite during the 1970s was playing out throughout the climbing world. The best young climbers everywhere tearing apart the rules of reason and possibility!
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2016 - 10:33pm PT
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An article I wrote for Ascent 15 years ago....
http://www.bigwalls.net/climb/mechadv/index.html
The Wilder Kaiser range also a place of origin along with Dolomites.
Yosemite definitely key to the evolution!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Dimitri Barton I was looking up something in the Yellow Pages and notice he has a tree trimming business in Bishop.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Jan 18, 2019 - 04:54pm PT
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fascinating tread. too many comments erased by moderators [ like Warbler is gone] or self inflicted deletions .
good that days of "Valley syndrome " is over forever
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 18, 2019 - 05:17pm PT
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Alexey!!!
Dude: Tarbuster to the rescue.
I saved it to PDF in 2017, so I have all of Warbler's posts and can toss them in at the end when I get around to it.
Thanks for reminding me.
I also have Tami's posts, but per her wishes, they will remain archived for the time being.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Jan 19, 2019 - 08:03am PT
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Tarbuster thank you again. I found so many interesting Warbler's post are missing. I really think is so bad method to completely erase someone.
Another tread where he posted about Tales of Power. Can you restore his posts? there exchange of how Tales was first found before climbed.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=793270&tn=0&mr=0
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 19, 2019 - 12:03pm PT
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Good news, Alexey: I didn't have it in PDF, but it's in the way back machine.
https://web.archive.org/web/20171013050639/http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=793270&tn=0&mr=0
(You must copy and paste the entire link above into your browser to see it)
I just added it to my list of chores, to repatriate his posts in the actual thread, of course at the end, as is the only way.
Since Kevin constitutes a "missing player" – let's just create a list right here in this thread for anything else you might think of which he contributed to, in terms of climing content only?
(I think it best NOT to start an independent thread for this purpose)
Here's my current list:
Warbler appreciation thread (done)
Welcome to Kevin Worrall (in progress)
What Is Trad????
The 1980s. The missing history. Players.
Josh Space Station
Space Stations
How to find the space station in J Tree
Mother Earth – stories and photos from the first ascent
Tales of Power
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Mike Honcho
Trad climber
Glenwood Springs, CO
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Jan 19, 2019 - 12:50pm PT
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The Pheonix is 5.13, the Belle 5.12D and yet which is the truly harder climb?
Leo Houlding assured me he thought the crux pitch of Southern Belle was 13a, and then remember there is literally a 100' 12a runout after the last bolt. Splitting hairs a bit? Maybe. It would seem that The Phoenix is a bitchin' climb, the 5th pitch of the Southern Belle is a full on religious experience, imo.
Caylor
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