Sub 5.12 and STILL testpieces.

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List

This thread has been locked

Messages 201 - 220 of total 228 in this topic

<< First | < Previous | Show All | Next > | Last >>

Ropeboy

Trad climber

Fresno CA

Feb 17, 2018 - 11:48am PT

Chingando. In February 1972, without a partner for the day, I was rigging an anchor at the top of Chingando so I could climb it with a jumar as my protection. A climber came up the crack towards me unroped. It was Mark Klemens with a cast on his left ankle. He did not seem to have any difficulty and told me he just wanted to climb something he could still do without full use of his left foot. You remember stuff like this.

Gunkie

Trad climber

Valles Marineris

Feb 18, 2018 - 07:17am PT

The older I get, the more testpieces there are.

Gregory Crouch

Social climber

Walnut Creek, California

Feb 18, 2018 - 09:17am PT

Perilous Journey and perhaps the Wisdom/Lene's Dream in Boulder, or are people hiking those before breakfast these days? Been a while since I was in Boulder.

Hairypin, Superpin, and Freak's Fright in the SD Needles at 5.10 and Trojan Determination at 5.8+? Vertigo at 5.11?

A-Train

climber

Feb 18, 2018 - 10:03am PT

"Perilous Journey and perhaps the Wisdom/Lene's Dream in Boulder, or are people hiking those before breakfast these days? Been a while since I was in Boulder."

Both still proud and rarely repeated. The Wisdom to Green Willow Wall to Lene's Dream to the Naked Edge is sub-5.12 and has only been led a couple times. And that is in the uber-hard world of Boulder 5.14 superstars.

mike m

Trad climber

black hills

Feb 18, 2018 - 07:15pm PT

Mr. Clean at 11a and El Matador at 10d at devils tower comes to mind.

Fogarty

climber

BITD

Feb 18, 2018 - 07:33pm PT

Burning Down The House 5.11c X
Any second on this?

Scole

Trad climber

Zapopan

Feb 28, 2018 - 09:26am PT

Donini's Crack (5.10C) at City of Rocks. I onsighted Gemini (5.12a) on Bath Rock immediately before getting on Donini's Crack. I managed to pull the roof first try, but it was much harder than the 5.12 right next to it

rmuir

Social climber

From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.

Feb 28, 2018 - 01:09pm PT

How 'bout The Hangover on Tahquitz? 🤡

It was rated 'hard 5.11' or (maybe) 5.12 back in 1978. Some are claiming it 13a now…

Bad Climber

Trad climber

The Lawless Border Regions

Feb 28, 2018 - 08:49pm PT

Should sandbagged ratings even count? I think there is a George (?) Lowe route at City of Rocks that for many years was rated 5.9. Most consider it solid 5.11 and runout. No thank you!

BAd

mouse from merced

Trad climber

The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.

Sep 20, 2018 - 01:20pm PT

Bump.

G_Gnome

Trad climber

Cali

Sep 20, 2018 - 02:09pm PT

Tune Up in Tuolumne is only 10b but is rarely done. You most likely would not die on it if you fell. Most likely...

Reilly

Mountain climber

The Other Monrovia- CA

Sep 20, 2018 - 02:49pm PT

Bad, what _ _ _ Lowe route isn’t ‘bagged’? Not necessarily on purpose,
they just had no clue! 😉

Trad climber

Calgary

Sep 20, 2018 - 03:11pm PT

When you get my age you change the name from testpieces to failpieces

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Sep 21, 2018 - 08:59am PT

skywalker1

Trad climber

Sep 21, 2018 - 09:39am PT

Vedauwoo

ktg

climber

San Diego

Sep 21, 2018 - 12:21pm PT

There are a handful of sub 12 tests at Mt. Woodson down here in San Diego.

Couple of the old Bacher routes;
Hear My Train A' Comin 11d, overhung finger crack
Uncertainty Principle 11d

Also;
Mother Superior, 11d offwidth.
Test Tube 11

A Essex

climber

Sep 21, 2018 - 01:16pm PT

testpieces or museum pieces?

Ksolem

Trad climber

Monrovia, California

Sep 21, 2018 - 05:44pm PT

A few sort of obscure Josh sub .12 climbs that will get your undivided attention:

Snap on Demand
For Peter
Morality Test

Of course Morality Test is a Woodward .11d, so it probably doesn't count as "sub .12"