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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 23, 2012 - 03:14am PT
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Wow, five other parties on the east buttress, sorry it didn't work out but it will always be there,ready for your next visit.Sounds like you did lots of stuff though and probably have some plans for your next visit already. All your pics are great and really tell the story. Remember the crappiest day in Yosemite with that beautiful weather is still better than swimming down the chief during the monsoon.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 23, 2012 - 03:28am PT
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Luke, when are you driving back through Seattle? Stop by and fill me in if I'm still in town. I would love to hear the tale firsthand.
Mike and Relic, I can't wait to hear the skinny. Are you guys gonna be in a hurry to get back to Canada?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2012 - 01:09pm PT
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Looks like we are going to have to go the long way back tonight because the passes are closed. Anyone got a floor in Reno or any good bivy info for us tonight?? It would be much appreciated.
Wayno- relic will want to get home because he has to work the next day, but I am sure we will be hungry so hopefully we can get him to agree to sit down with you guys for some dinner!!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 23, 2012 - 01:52pm PT
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I'm pretty sure we can get Relic to eat something before braving the Border. How is the Kid and Doug? When does he plan on heading North?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Oct 23, 2012 - 02:21pm PT
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The kid is all good except for some shin splints from the falls trail.. Haven't heard from Doug yet, YOSAR got him down to the valley last night and called me to pick him up but I was too drunk to drive.
Nice pics mike. Too bad you didn't reach the rim.. Next time.
I'm trying to convince Ais to come for a lap up the RNWF of Half Dome before we head back north. After we retrieve our gear that is.
We will give ya a call on our way through Wayno. That is if Doug still wants to drive us home.
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Oct 23, 2012 - 03:03pm PT
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This is classic sh#t, rescues, BK making people cry.
hahahaha, right on!
Write a book for sure!!
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Oct 23, 2012 - 04:47pm PT
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If you're headed back over Donner, you should take the scenic route over Mt Rose, then up past Alpine Meadows and Squaw to ogle the fun terrain there. It's not Whistler, but it's damn good. Plus, it's a nice drive. Also, old hwy 40 over Donner is a good trip, parallels the 80 and you can ogle the climbing and skiing.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 23, 2012 - 05:30pm PT
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Luke, I'm heading to Cali on Thursday through Monday. I'll be at the Fest in Oakburg.
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KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
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Oct 23, 2012 - 06:26pm PT
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The Captain is amazing!!!
Yes...it is our "Grand Wall," as noted upthread.
Gee, since you bivi'ed out at the 'Milks yesterday, you might have noticed Starlite from there.
Sounds (and looks) like you men had a successful trip - glad you checked out the CPof/F! _I/d call it the best multipitch crack climb of its grade in The Park, but others might take exception...but it's quite a trophy to take back across the border to Squeemish with ya'll. NAFTA!
I think Serenity is the only 5.11 in the Roper Green; FFA Higgens lead, but that was to change even as the book was on the presses. BITD, my 1st/est partner, TC, and I found ourselves onsiting lots of thin stuff that wasn't documented anywhere except in the FA'ists 3-ring binders.
Re: the Trad Thread - if you don't know what to expect, then what ever turns up is okay...right? Call it 5.10e/f; the hardest move is the one out of the parking lot.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2012 - 08:00pm PT
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Wow! Just got a call from Luke! Seems him and Ais have been "ditched" in the valley! Doug disappeared last night never to be seen again apparently. If anyone would like to meet the kid I'm sure he would appreciate a ride to a airport somewhere after they retrieve the gear....
Silver thanks! Will be calling very shortly. Kabla I heard you might be around these parts.. Too bad we didn't get to meet up. Next time.
Lotsa stuff to post from the last couple days but no time now.
Hoser- BK never made me cry but it did get under my skin a little..... All good now. Why are you such a hoser all the time??? ;)
Too bad we are stuck on the other side of the mountains and unable to assist Luke. Sounds like he just inherited a crap load of new gear though!!!
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MH2
climber
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Oct 23, 2012 - 08:52pm PT
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Doesn't add up. Doug froze to stay with the gear and then abandoned it? We need his side.
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MH2
climber
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Oct 23, 2012 - 09:13pm PT
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Thanks, QITNL. That may explain it.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Oct 23, 2012 - 09:21pm PT
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Andy you are right. It DOESN'T ADD UP!
We heard the storm was coming from Aislinn early Sunday morning and we were set up to climb out with only 6 pitches to go(we were at belay 26)
Doug made no significant effort to move quickly taking 6 or 7 hours to lead his 2 pitch block. Nearly dark by the time I got started on the finally pitches, I was in get the f*#k out of here ASAP mode.
First I linked p29 and p30 in a ropelength and while linking the last two pitches into one the tag line managed to get stuck under a flake. Due to the traversing nature of the pitch freeing the stuck rope could have taking quite awhile. And I had no desire to find our how fierce and early winter storm on elcap could be.
After replying 'f*#k that' to my suggestion to leave the bags and bail to safety of the valley, I told him I was leaving in 10 minutes and to decide if he was coming or staying he quite clearly replied he was going to stick it out with the bags, for reasons unknown.
I've never been in a situation like this before and can't help but feel guilty for 'leaving him up there' but sm sure glad I didn't risk my own safety by pointlessly trying to stick it out.
YOSAR interviewed us both and will no doubt put together an analysis of the ordeal at some point.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Oct 23, 2012 - 09:33pm PT
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Man, don't even sweat it. Sh#t happens, and it could have been so much worse. We're just glad you're okay.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 23, 2012 - 10:26pm PT
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I've never been in a situation like this before and can't help but feel guilty for 'leaving him up there
Disagreeing with your partner over what to do in a life/death situation is probably the ultimate worst climbing scenario.
But think about it this way: Suppose you had stayed up there. Would you have survived the night? Would you have been in any condition to help even if you had survived? Would it be better to have had YOSAR come in to pull two people out instead of one? Given that all your gear (sleeping bag, etc) was still down at the belay, you'd have been in desperate shape in the morning if you tried to hang out on top.
If there was something you could have accomplished by staying, then sure, you should have stayed. But it sounds like there's a good chance things would have been worse if you stayed, not better.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 23, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
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Well, glad that everyone is down and apparently OK, whatever exactly happened. Also that you guys seem to have had a great trip, and thanks for the daily updates!
Apropos of what happened, there was an incident involving a US Air Force jet in the 1960s. Pilot and co-pilot. In a crash, each had a choice to eject or to stay with the plane. The plane went down, the pilot ejected, and the co-pilot stayed on board. Both lived - if either had done the opposite, he'd have died. Maybe Luke and Doug both made the right decision, in context.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2012 - 11:00pm PT
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I don't get it. Willing to risk his life for the gear that night, then peace out after?? Hypothermia does weird things to people and so does being on the wall for so long. All I know is if it were me I would not allow myself to be plucked off by yosar unless it was absolutely necessary. I fear we will never hear Doug's side unfortunately.
We had a great trip, and my east side exposure over the last couple days was extremely eye opening. I hate to say it, but I love desert bouldering now!!!!
We are currently devouring all you can eat spaghetti at the topaz lake casino just over the Nevada border. All the passes are closed so Reno was the only option. Hopefully if we get there soon enough tonight, Silver will join us for a beer.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Oct 23, 2012 - 11:08pm PT
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This is better that most reality TV! Well, I guess I shouldn't say that since I don't watch reality TV, but this is pretty interesting, no doubt.
I hope all parties involved had a great adventure in California and go home with many memories and stories. Please no blame or second guessing or guilt. Why expend time and energy on that? You all did what was best for each of you in that moment and that is good enough.
Come back to "Cali" soon!
Phyl
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2012 - 11:30pm PT
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Eastside teaser!!!!
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