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DMBARN
Trad climber
Modesto
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Mar 22, 2012 - 11:20pm PT
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This is for all you old guys out there. Forgive me if I wax nostalgic.
My first board was a Dale Velzy 9'6". Weighed a flippin ton. But it got me started and before you know it I was saving my pennies, mowing lots of lawns and for my 16th birthday got the latest Hansen "superflex". It wasn't long and the short board revolution hit, boards suddenly became 2' shorter, lighter and the world of surfing changed forever.
There was a guy in the Valley (San Fernado) the made a fortune doing "Cutdowns" at this time. I gave him this board and he would lopp off 2', reshape it and there you go, a short board and you were one of the cutting edge guys.
Suddenly things looked like this:
California street, Ventura
A buddy and I went one evening for the "glass off". It never glassed off but standing in the parking lot at Zuma we noticed line after line stacking up out to sea. This was before the internet and recorded "Surf Reports" and so the only way you could know if it was going to be good was to be there. I picked him up at 4:30 and had Malibu almost to ourselve for about 3 hours at 5-6'. Great day.
This is how it usually looked in the early 70's. Notice there are still a few long board holdouts in the water.
Of course we made our required trek to the islands and stayed in this bungalow at Sunset Point ("Backyards"). We could walk to Velzyland each morning for some great times.
Hope you all don't mind the way-back machine. It's all I got.
Regards,
Doug
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Mar 22, 2012 - 11:22pm PT
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doug very nice.
county on monday.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Mar 23, 2012 - 02:14am PT
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Hope you all don't mind the way-back machine. It's all I got Doug, Thanks for posting your story man.Great stuff!!
Hey O-Man, is there a source for the beauty art you've been posting? roadkillphill,the source is SUPERTOPO
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Mar 23, 2012 - 09:59am PT
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Lovin those shots Doug!
I think it's safe to say, by now, that there is no "surfing vs climbing" ...
Nothing else compares to either!
NO KA OI!!!
Here's my kiwi brother Yama at the Star Bar
YEEEEOOOOOOWWWWW! ”ORALE!
And one he shared with me from a recent trip.
Supersucks
(!!!/
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Mar 23, 2012 - 10:25am PT
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Double overhead (California)
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Mar 23, 2012 - 11:00am PT
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Glass(stained)
About to hit the lip
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Mar 23, 2012 - 11:32am PT
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Here's one Doug can appreciate...and mourn.
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Mar 23, 2012 - 11:41am PT
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'Killer Dana' Point!
Mourn indeed...use to park in the woods/trees right off of PCH and camp there overnight when we were in highschool(san diego)bitd!
Then, POOF, and she was gone...
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Mar 23, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
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Robja
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Mar 23, 2012 - 05:54pm PT
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Mar 24, 2012 - 05:27pm PT
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zBrown
Ice climber
Chula Vista, CA
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Mar 25, 2012 - 12:08am PT
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Mar 26, 2012 - 11:08am PT
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I'm posting this again because it was at the bottom of the last page...
And because it's fūcking SICK!
My bro Yama at the Star Bar, PE Mex
”ORALE!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Mar 27, 2012 - 01:07am PT
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just overhead at Leo Carrillo.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Mar 27, 2012 - 01:22am PT
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When is a guy too old to learn to surf????
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Mar 27, 2012 - 01:38am PT
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Yeah, but surfers are more likely to destroy your car because you were "just there" than climbers are
Just sayin
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Mar 27, 2012 - 02:56am PT
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Depends where you go and who you go with and how you learn... localism exists, but it's hyped too much...
There are mellow spots (with cool folks) to learn and practice with on the west side in the summer. I would recommend an instructor/guide to get you going in the right direction. Even if you don't make it your greatest passion you'll never regret the time spent experiencing what it feels like to be a SURFER!
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Mar 27, 2012 - 03:28am PT
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Like they said, depends on where you go, but as a beginner you will most likely be going to a beach break of which there are many public beaches with lots of beach, parking, and surfers with all types of experience, including beginners. We all went through it, the gremmie period & the localism. Just remember the basic rule of thumb in the water; don't take off in front of a guy already on the wave or in a better position when you are both simultaneously scratching to get the same wave. Localism is way over hyped for the most part. And like O-man suggests, prollie would be a good idea to rent a board and get a 1-2 hour lesson the first time to see if you like it and get a few pointers. Especially if your planning a trip to his neck of the woods(the Islands). If you are, Waikiki would be an excellent intro to the sport with the origional Hawiian Beach Boys as instructors!
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Mar 27, 2012 - 12:51pm PT
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Ghoulwe... it should be fairly easy for you to arrange... just sayin...
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