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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2011 - 05:05am PT
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Climbing Magazine ad - October 1983
Wow the price was pricey even in 1983. No mfg stamp. Made of aluminum.
My other Retriever is from Vaude and is made of titanium.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2011 - 05:10am PT
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Climbing Magazine December 1985.
The article is called Pumping Wood by Bob Murray under the Training section.
Home gyms sure have come a long way since then!
It looks like there is only one route per side.
Only one foothold on that lower photo and just a little reachy huh!
The next magazine training article must have talked about tendon failure while training on home woodies!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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This is likely the only time that I'm gonna be able to tweak your inner freak twice in a week! A mint #10!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2011 - 01:16pm PT
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Steve,
What is cool about that #10 Dolt Trunut is that it is uncolored. Hmmmm....
A little scratchy looking but close to mint, or unused.
It also has a "Z" stamp on it (?) which takes more away from mint.
Maybe there is a #6 uncolored Spidernut out there as well.
Where are you digging up these Dolt items at? Lauria's house?
Fun stuff for sure! Nice nuts dude!
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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That shirt! oh how I miss paisley. I took one look at it and I heard
"Anger he smiles tow'ring shiny metallic purple armour.
Queen jealousy, envy waits behind him.
Her fiery green gown sneers at the grassy ground.
Blue are the life giving waters taking for granted,
They quietly understand"
spinning around in my head.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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A local fellow, Jim Phillips, kindly sold me this handful of mint Doltnuts.
The purchase starts to fill in my set nicely!
He also gave me a #8 Saddlewedge for Stephane!
Thanks Jim!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Marty- First commercially sold nut tool? Leeper four-hole?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2011 - 12:47am PT
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I guess the question is:
Is the Long Dong piton really considered a nut tool?
It was not intended to be one originally.
I have no Chouinard info from 1961-1964. Dolt catalog 1960 shows no Chouinard Long Dong piton. Chouinard Catalog 1965 shows Long Dong piton.
Ed Leeper started making bolt hangers in 1964. The Leeper nut tool was made in the 1960s but I will have to research when.
Maybe this calls out for shuffling through the old Summit Magazines, or REI catalogs for the answer? Stephane in Corsica may already know the history of the first Nut Tools.
I have some old Leeper catalogs but they are in the storage. I will retrieve them when I return from the Outdoor Retailers show on Monday.
So the main question is: What company was first to manufacture nut tools?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2011 - 12:55am PT
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This is the Bridwell shirt display that is going to be shown this weekend in the Omega Pacific booth at the Outdoor Retailers Show in Salt Lake City, UT. After the show this famous shirt is being shipped to it's new home in the Yosemite Museum.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I bet Leeper leads this one. Folks used to use modified slot track shelving brackets, BITD.
The Long Dong is a piton shape functionally until the blade becomes spread thinner and notched as a functional nut tool in the eighties.
The middle Arrow is a Long Dong.
Signed 80's Lost Arrow Nut Tool.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2011 - 02:41am PT
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The longer Chouinard nut tool version is called a "Super Long Dong"
Nice signatures!
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Ahhh, the Bridwell shirt! Silly me, I thought this was sort of mandatory for El Cap:
Photo on top of El Cap, after 11 stormy days on PO Wall, 1984. Ran out of food, dropped one sleeping bag, other (down, of course) soaked, nearly died from cold; but, yay, still had the floral shirt!
Photo: Go-Bee, taken with Gobee's grandpa's Argus camera, borrowed for the climb.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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So, Fred Beckey came to visit Boulder. He brought his stuff in a Dolt haul bag. "Just drag it" he says as we make our way from the bus station to the waiting car. "It drags really well" and I had to laugh, for him the bag is just a bag. He was perplexed at me even bothering to take a photo of the thing.
Classic.
Reminds me of bringing the Totem Pole register from Eric Bjornstad to the AAC library. Somewhere along I-70, maybe around Vail, the item changed from being a rusty old can with names (almost all of people I've met) written on bits of curled paper, to a museum-quality artifact.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2011 - 02:17pm PT
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Doltpatch ad from Summit magazine July/August 1969
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2011 - 02:34pm PT
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Before I move on with this thread, I want to get back to where I am at with my spiritual quest. This thread started with my quest. In a nut shell I was born and raised in the Catholic church and stopped going to church around the age of 18. During my leg break July 2009 age 45, I experienced a major spiritual awakening that put me back into church to search for what spirituality means to ME. I have reread the Bible and have listened to many programs on different religions, talked to many priests about the subject, reading many books, have an amazing spiritual guide that has healed me, been through confessions in church and basically became very transparent in my overall life. I left myself with nothing to hide and this thread tells my story.
I still go to the Catholic church twice a month because it helps remind me that I am searching for the meaning of Spirituality. Kind of like going to the rock gym a few times a week to train makes you a stronger climber for your weekend outdoor sends. It is easy in life to get re-caught up in the normality of life, over what this life is actually/maybe all about. I like to stay out of this grove of life that many seem to like to stay in. Something like what is seen through the eyes is the way, which I do not believe it is. I like to be the driver of the vehicle, not the passenger being lead to where ever.
I go to church because I want to, not because it is "The Way." I still give money to the church because I believe the church money does go to good use to help many in need. There are many problems in this world in many countries that this, or some of this money eventually gets to. I do not believe the money just goes into the Priests pockets. Give the amount you want, over the suggested amount you perceive. I notice that not many give money during the mass. Is just one dollar that hard to give? I feel comfortable and welcomed when I am in church, and I am sometimes the loudest singer. I pray when I am at church, but I believe that God hears my prayers and my thoughts the same while I am at home, out climbing, or driving in my truck. I notice that many people who go to church rush in late and leave early like it is some "Game." Or a game to tell others that you went to church that day. If God knows everything that you do, I am sure God knows everything you are thinking as well, and knows the game you are playing. I arrive to church 15 minutes before mass starts, and the parking lot is practically empty. I notice that after mass the parking lot is packed. After mass many people rush to get out of the church parking lot in a rude fashion, instead of giving way to their fellow others. What is the rush? I like to stay after to thank the Priest for his good service and message that day, and then leave 10 minutes later when the parking lot is pretty much empty. I visit the gift shop occasionally to see what is new. Don't get me wrong since I am not scolding the people that go to church. I have met many wonderful people, young and old, that love going to church. Is it necessary for somebody to go to church? I don't know but if you feel that it is dumb to be there, then why be there? I believe many people don't understand why they are even in church. I find the new "Auto Tithing" system that the church has recently introduced to be an ugly form of corruption. The church should continue to encourage people to give honorably, over just taking money from peoples bank accounts.
My x-wife Randi was raised by non-practicing Jewish parents. This makes my kids half Jewish and half Catholic, but neither of my kids were baptized or anything. So my kids are basically non religion? I say that Randi's parents are non practicing since they wave proudly that fact that they are Jewish, but do not go to Synagogue, and hid behind a Christmas tree in their house for many years as Randi and her sister were raised as kids. This hiding could be due to racism in the early years in America, or just the fact that the parents never stood firm on their religious beliefs. I read the Old Testament in the Bible and am rereading it in the expanded form to understand the true Jewish beliefs. I even sat through a Passover meal which followed the religious tradition step by step. I found it to be a very Holy experience. The Jewish faith does not include Jesus in it so I feel that the Jewish religion is not what I consider spiritual. I define it as very Holy, and only very Holy to the people that follow the Jewish faith by the book. Even if Jesus is not the Messiah, Jesus was an incredible teacher promoting all to walk in Love. I don't follow Jesus's words as a "have to" way in my life. Jesus's words to me are food for thought. And the food Jesus is serving is the best food I have ever tasted! Sorry Mom, your food is second best for sure!!!
My good friend Rich keeps me up to date with his Mormon beliefs, which I find interesting. If the Joseph Smith tablets surface some day, watch out religion. I guess you can say that about the two stone tablets of Moses as well. The Book of Mormon parallels the same teachings as Jesus, but the Mormon church is more of their members being in a community like a family. Rich at times seems to be happy with this family belonging, but at the same time feels guilty or in sin, since he has no money and the Mormon church has its certain ways of "must give", and being in family. I feel that the Mormon way is not the way for me due to the control of the individuals they seem to want to have. Although if you love being Mormon and truly follow the Mormon way, you will lead a good life.
I just finished the book "Conversations With God" by Neale Donald Walsch. It is a very amazing book which talks about the reason our spirit is here on Earth is just for an adventure. We are all Gods equal to God himself, and the book does a good job of explaining the meaning of "Unconditional Love." There is no devil, no Hell, no scolding, and possibly Hitler is now my next door neighbor that lets me use his pool on the weekends. The book however left me very empty as to what is the point of life. I will however recommend everybody to read this book. It is quite interesting!! There are a few more books in this series that are on my tick list to read. I also am reading a book called "Self Realization" which talks about the Krishna Consciousness and the meaning of Unconditional Love. I find the book to be very pleasing as humans can once again become animals of lesser value due to their actions in this life. As humans, we are already at the highest level closest to God, but we end up developing ourselves as simple animals, and start over as a lesser creature depending how bad you are in this life. I still have a long way to go to finish this book.
What I find while talking to many many many people about religion, is major frustration. As though each person knows what they are talking about, and will fight you to show that they know, and that THEY are following the "Correct" way. Everybody has read the Bible, but everybody defends their different view of what the words mean to them, or what they have been taught by another person or organization. I am just Marty the climber who is asking a few questions. Unfortunately I always seem to leave the conversation with my tail between my legs, because "I didn't know what the other person believes as being TRUE." But what is true?
I went back to the Bible and am reading books that talk in full about what every verse of the Bible really means. Do I need to know this information to get to Heaven? Probably not but I am on a quest for ME to know, not to teach everybody what is right or what is wrong. I get bummed out when people return answers to me that always seem to have daggers attached. I thought God was all about "Unconditional Love," as most people carry the "Must Or Else" statement in their life."
When I stand outside alone and gaze at the mountain peaks, I get a sense of complete peace. The feeling of the breeze in my hair and the delicate but very beautiful fields of flowers dancing in this breeze, makes me feel that I am closer to spiritual peace over what is written in books and "The Way." I do believe there is a purpose for this quest that I am on, and I believe that God is guiding me and helping me find the answers that I seek.
My spiritual teachers have told me that I have reached the levels of spiritual development. I have truly found who I am, and now I am curious of where I am to go.
Marty's search for the meaning of Spirituality continues….
Marty Karabin
One Dollar Ministry
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2011 - 02:35pm PT
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The August 4-7 Outdoor Retailers Show this weekend was totally awesome! First of all I give a huge shout out to my paparazzi team: Robert Olson, Nicholas Oxentenko (Neo), and Jaime Gangi! My face still hurts from smiling and laughing for 4 days straight. I love you guys, and it was awesome running around with you! We dominated many of the raffles with Robert wining Five Ten shoes. Neo twice winning Red Chili shoes on the fastest 3-time traverse, I won a Edelrid rope being the fastest and yet to be beat harness tie-in with a figure 8 knot at 7 seconds! Neo won 2 Edelrid ropes being the fastest on the rope coil backpack tie at 44 seconds, and Neo won another Edelrid rope on the second heat of the harness figure 8 knot tie in at 11 seconds. Robert was 4 seconds short from winning the Ice Axe dead hang, and a few short on the pull-up contest. I went into the second place double showdown in the Petzl Timmy O'Neil rodeo clip contest and lost to Rock-Paper-Scissors against Ryan Scott. We drew a good crowd on that final round for sure! Timmy is awesome and always draws a good crowd! On every contest heat one of us placed for a prize but knowing Alison Osius, she always hooked us up anyways. We love you Alison!! We all came home with our luggage busting at the seams with gifts and schwag from the show.
A big thanks goes to the AZ Hiking Shack for sponsoring us at the show! Thanks Dale! Also thanks Scott and crew from the Tufa Gear Shop, for dragging a few of the bigger items back home for us that we received at the show.
I thank everybody again for the gifts we received at the show. So many manufacturers and climbing stars were very generous gifting us and giving us tons of energy to continue the museums mission of climbing gear preservation! I received hundreds of hugs and kisses and an amazing amount of support for the museum. Thank you, thank you, thank you all again and again!!!
Omega Pacific thanks once again for letting Robert and I display our museum interest at your booth. I had the Jim Bridwell shirt on display, and Robert created a display of Forrest products in a shadow box. Omega Pacific you have always been there for us and we will continue the fun with new displays. Thanks Michael and Jon and the Omega team!
I have many photos to share, but I am still in the process of gathering them so be patient. I have many people to thank for show gifts that were received, and will send you lots of Love accompanied with the photos we took. Let's catch up with a few of this threads past questions and comments:
I spoke to Chris Sharma for a brief moment about his feelings about Marty's comments on this thread concerning reasons for him leaving the USA. Chris stated that he loves the USA and enjoys the hard climbs it offers, but loves his new adventures in Spain. He stated that he is such a public icon, that he is constantly feeling under massive pressure to be, or always be the icon, and this is a battle that wears him out. This is a battle that he is overcoming by being away and just having fun with friends and finding new adventures in his life without having the feeling that the public is demanding something out of him. Chris has found peace in Spain and is very happy with his life. Thanks again Chris and Daila for the many photo signatures you gave us at the show!
I had a chance to talk to Malcolm Daly and did not realize that he left the Great Trango Holding company, and is presently retired. I send you tons of energy my good friend on your new retired life and other fun things your are into. I got to meet Malcolm's daughter, and his son Mason is a rep for Evolv.
Dale Bard finally got his chance to touch the famous Jim Bridwell Yosemite shirt. Dale was on the First Ascent of "Sea of Dreams" where Bridwell wore the shirt during the ascent in 1978. This story is featured in Rock & Ice September 2011 issue #196 page 42 which shows Bard, Bridwell and the shirt. It was fun Dale hanging with you at the show! I am glad that Robert had a chance to meet you and get your signature on a few photos. John Long or Jim Bridwell did not attend the show.
Of course I saw Bobbi Bensman at the show. She still is in great shape like she could onsite 5.13s for breakfast. She is a rep for Mammut and Soloman and looked tired from running booth to booth to catch her appointments. Dana Hollister…. Bobbi gave me a gift to give to you! Also Dana I give you a huge THANKS for the boxes of gear you donated to the museum the day before the show. Wow! I mean WOW! Dief donated many of your pieces to Roberts collection as well. Robert says WOW also! Thanks and it was great catching up with you!!!
We bumped into Jim Waugh and his wife (Snow White) at the show. It was a great surprise to see him and I gave him a strong hug for all of us that miss him being around. He is enjoying his life in Thailand.
Talking to David Graham this weekend about "The Island" and seeing his passion in the belief made me realize that I already was a part of it. I have always been a part of it. I just hesitated to ALWAYS step up in my life, and at times I let myself follow the norm seen through the eyes of the most. I don't like the control of the most and just want to be me. This Marty thread is an example of me being me and others can see, this is me.
David states: Try the Island out. It's for people like you and me, anyone can come. Who needs a home when you’ve got one all the time! Its not a place, but a state of mind, so remember the motto, "Its not where you are going, its where you are from." Welcome to gypsy’s, nomads, and anyone else who wants to come, there is lots of room as its an imaginary, non-physical destination. Great times.
I love your spiritual Island message Dave, and hope you can pound it into everybody's reality.
Beaver from Prana you will always be my inspiration! I love how you personally tower above every crowd.
Misty Mountain Threadworks is now my harness sponsor! I didn't even ask them or give them my resume showing the many 5.2 nasty runout chimneys that I established over the years. They just said that I was the person they wanted to be on their team. I proudly wear the awesome Misty Mountain Threadworks Cadillac harness when I am coursesetting at the gym, or sending and establishing routes in the outdoors. Next time you want security and a rugged harness keeping you safe on your next adventure, choose Misty Mountain Threadworks! Thank you so much Misty! I am proud to be on your team! Now let's talk about Zebra harness fabrics!!!
John Yates answered the question on HISTORY LESSON VOL 1 on what the giant screamer pictured was created for. At first there was an even larger screamer created that was used for the take-offs of F16s planes that were towing Drone planes. The F16s were ripping the drones fuselage by the drag of the two planes coming to the same speed at take off. The screamer eased the speed difference as the planes took off into the air. The drones were used as target practice.
Then came the pictured screamer (Marty's), which is a prototype used for airplanes while the planes were being taxied on the deck of Navy ships. If the airplane lost its hydraulic brakes, Navy individuals following the plane hooked the plane cable to the deck of the ship to stop a potential accident. The screamer was used to ease the shock between the cable and the airplane. The design was changed later to a multi loop larger screamer with a different sewing/breaking pattern.
On the Big Dudes advertisement shown earlier on this thread with the curved lobes, no #4s were created. Only a few #5s were created. Many #6 and #7 Big Dudes were created and then the lobe design was changed, and then the Big Dudes were mass produced.
Thanks again John for the moonshine at the show, and the titty twister you gave me. Ouch! Fernando I know you were screening him as he came out of nowhere delivering his devious purple nurple attack. I thank you John for your dedication of creating products that assist all that are presently in the service of keeping our country safe!
The only bad vibe I felt at the Outdoor Retailers show was that there was no climbing competition. Every show there is usually some competition created for all of the dedicated comp goers to get chalked up together, amateur and superpro. I know that the main super comp fell through, but why was there no last minute "simple" citizens comp created at the Front, or at Momentum? Most pro climbers understood the situation and would have accepted a simple 1, 2, 3 ribbon as a prize just to have fun climbing together.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2011 - 07:17pm PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2011 - 09:14am PT
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Last call for the Bridwell shirt…….
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