Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Rexi
climber
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2017 - 04:14pm PT
|
Yep, countless routes :) and some of them are great, exposed, steep but just easily protected and on huge holds. Awesome lines :)
|
|
AP
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2017 - 04:54pm PT
|
Anything easier than 5.6 up here is usually death on a stick or at least semi treacherous alpine
|
|
Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2017 - 05:03pm PT
|
If we can include climbs outside the USA, then the via Normale on Torre Lusy, Cinque Torri makes the cut. First climb I did there with my guide and later my friend Maurizio de Zanna (RIP).
This route is guidebook rated UIAA Grade IV, which translated to 5.5 in my experience. When I first did the route in 1963, it seemed awfully easy. Others have subsequently rated it as high as 5.7, but that's hogwash. It's just another "Old School 5.5."
Here's a photo taken exactly 50 years later--to the exact day: 8 September 2013.
|
|
golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
|
|
|
Apr 21, 2017 - 08:28pm PT
|
Good for you Brokedown!
Mike M started this wiht Needles routes. There are some great routes there at lower grades.
|
|
c_vultaggio
Trad climber
new york
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2017 - 07:37am PT
|
|
|
jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2017 - 07:50am PT
|
North Ridge of Lone Pine Peak.
|
|
chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2017 - 12:37pm PT
|
Did anybody mention Napsack Crack at The Leap? Free solo laps. Can traverse right onto another route to the right just above the third pitch crux of knapsack. That route is 5.6 or maybe 5.7. A little improbable a ways up. A single small knob handfoot match and standup. Makes for a great variation to knapsack. I dont know if it really takes gear. Never had any on it. And of course, Bear Creek Spire. Sustained ledge to ledge hard class four with many short 5th class boulder problems. Summit traverse on knife edge hands and smear feet way off the deck leads to summit area. 5.6 crack clinb about 17 feet (mandatory down climb on descent) leads to summit block, a refridgerator size wobbler at 13.7k. Marys crack and all the other various ways up Schoolhouse in Donner is good. Third pitch after under roof traverse right gets heady as you bet your life on a medium, well worn chickenhead.
|
|
Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
|
|
|
Apr 22, 2017 - 09:39pm PT
|
Everybody has "climbed" below 5.5.
Walking is 1.0
Stumbling on a Trail = 2.0
Scared on a trail - 3.0
A typical approach to a real climb could be 4.0 (or worse)
The first time you got on the rope and on the rock?
PRICELESS
And, that's not really the sort of great memory that you want to degrade by putting a number against it.
|
|
StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2017 - 02:32pm PT
|
Everyone should do The Unmentionable at leas once. ;-)
|
|
divad
Trad climber
wmass
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2017 - 05:41pm PT
|
looks stiff for a 5.5
|
|
i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
|
|
|
Apr 23, 2017 - 07:17pm PT
|
I crux at 5.4!
|
|
Branscomb
Trad climber
Lander, WY
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2017 - 07:49am PT
|
5.5a or 5.5d?
|
|
Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2017 - 10:54am PT
|
Four of us traversed Mt. Starr King and it was a great day. Too much fun. We did it as a dayhike from Mono Meadows.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2017 - 11:02am PT
|
Claustrophobic Crack is a favorite at the Kern Slab
The obvious crack leading up the center of Kern Slab.....
|
|
ruppell
climber
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2017 - 11:57am PT
|
mooch
If you mention 5.5 and kern slabs you have to include The Lieback.
|
|
clode
Trad climber
portland, or
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2017 - 12:22pm PT
|
How about Left Slab Crack at Smith, in the Dihedrals? It's rated 5.4, and takes great gear. A nearly perfect first lead for the aspiring rock climber!
With bolted sport climbs all around, it's often open, even on a busy weekend!
|
|
Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2017 - 12:56pm PT
|
Route 66 on Gilligan's Island at Joashua Tree, best 5.4 in the park. Takes great hands and gear. Beautiful climb.
Scaramouche is a really nice 5.2, deserving of its stars in the guide.
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2017 - 03:11pm PT
|
Done a bunch in Colorado obviously the flatirons have tons, but the North Ridge of Spearhead is one of the best. Though technically 5.6 it is probably easier than most on this list.
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2017 - 03:29pm PT
|
I have heard there is a good one on here, but we did the 5.9.
|
|
dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2017 - 09:39pm PT
|
I haven't gone through the thread but.......
The Chief at Josh is pretty classic...and yes....5.5.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!