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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2011 - 10:53am PT
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Phantom X (if that even is your real name), if I had a dollar for every time I was called a chump, let me think...I guess I'd be about $3 richer, so let's forget about that angle. I know it was you. Don't mistake me for my brother Jim, who probably WOULD have forgotten. Agony, huh? I'll buy that. Could still happen real easily before the end of this thing. A lot more likely than, say, me having some kind of sexual experience with Lucille as some posters are suggesting.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Jul 16, 2011 - 12:58pm PT
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(if that even is your real name),
hahaha
What we need is some practice.
Give me a shout.
Prod.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2011 - 12:12am PT
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Ok. I've got a plan of sorts. So I went to Vedauwoo last weekend with the missus. Spent a bunch of time hiking around seemingly aimlessly with a real heavy pack, but also managed to get a little offwidth practice in on some notable test pieces. Here's what I found out.
I can't stack to save my life - but I can still armbar. Screw stacking! Stacking hurts my shoulders. Armbars are a tried and true method that don't work everywhere, but where they do, they have the advantage that you don't need a knee to hold your ass in. The active armbar pressure is what holds you in. This allows you to actually use your feet to advance your arms upward, rather than just knee placements. The order of activity is:
1. Armbar is set as high as possible.
2. Feet slide upward and are set.
3. Armbar slides upward.
4. Repeat.
(In addition, when leading, somehow find the wherewithal to get something in and clipped).
From experience, I would add, go as fast as humanly possible when you are on a hard part of an armbar section. Your destination should be a, typically wider or narrower section of the crack where you can get a rest. When you can get rests in an armbar sequence, they can be really good, so its good to keep that in mind. A typical end to a hard armbarring sequence is a chicken wing at a wide bit. You could read War and Peace while in a chicken wing position. You might also think about placing gear from such a position.
Lucille appears, to me, to be mainly a long, left-side-in armbarring problem. This weekend, I was able to do the Vedauwoo test piece, Big Pink, relatively easily as a left-side-in armbar. Another classic test piece, October Light, a little easier, also has been easy for me as a left-side-in armbar. These are 5.11 offwidths. Some folks think Big Pink might be harder. Lucille is rated 5.13a.
Like that Saturday Night Live episode where Paul Simon admits that he might be at a height disadvantage in his one-on-one match against Kareem Abdul Jabbar, I'd have to admit that the Lucille might be out of my league. But maybe not.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 19, 2011 - 12:25am PT
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For a man of your skillz, there will be no stacking on Lucille.
I did one of the first ascents ( Bob did the other one) of short but wide (aka Big pink)as a left side in armbar OW. I think I mostly climbed October Light right side in though(?)
If you don't want beta, don't read this
-I climbed Luciie as a left side in Chicken wing- but you're substantially larger than I.
Do you have a belayer lined up for this? Can I go too?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 19, 2011 - 01:26am PT
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This could take longer than the WoS saga. You could at least post some photos. (teasing)
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 19, 2011 - 01:36am PT
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Will someone tell me if they are even talking about climbing on the WoS thread? This thread totally f*#king ROCKS compared to that. I mean with terms like "left side in", "arm bar" and "chicken wing" it has to rock.
Darwin
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Jul 19, 2011 - 03:01am PT
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Eeyonkee don't you dare throw in the towel (not that you were going to), you can do it!!!!! I hope you give her a whirl!!!! Sending encouragement vibes your way :-) !!!!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2011 - 07:49am PT
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I guess I equate armbars with chicken wings and contrast the combined technique to stacking. I would, of course, try to get chicken wings in wherever I could. The more wings, the easier it will be. Maybe I'll bring a novel. I never did finish that stupid, Myth of Sisysphus.
You are, of course, welcome to climb this with me Jaybro. I don't know if Hankster is still in. Sheesh, with how you seem to climbing, I wouldn't be surprised if you kill this thing.
I plan on being in Vedauwoo this coming weekend, again. Got any "almost like Lucille" suggestions?
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jul 19, 2011 - 10:26am PT
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I can see it know, Greg and Lucille. . .
And Greg does it!!!!!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 20, 2011 - 09:40pm PT
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invalid without pics, so take a lot.
just sayin
;)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 20, 2011 - 10:22pm PT
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Yeah speaking of pictures, I'd like to hang in the cave and take some, if someone else can belay...
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jul 21, 2011 - 01:20am PT
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Jaybro, count me in, I'll be your belay bi***. . .
Really!
(as long as you don't take no pics of me, that is). . .
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 21, 2011 - 01:37am PT
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OK, but no freebasing. Otherwise we'll have to listen to Hank telling us about its radness in yet another movie. Though if the hotwife does the talking...
Edit: Yeah, you can tell from the photos and stories that she's a lively character.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jul 21, 2011 - 02:38am PT
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MH, Hank's hotwife is one SMART woman. Sheesh, I couldn't keep up with
her at Blitzo's happy hour -- she's definitely not just a pretty face!!!
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Collie-Rad-O! (FC to be exact)
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Jul 21, 2011 - 02:48am PT
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If I get the day off, I'll come watch...I could use some good comedy.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2011 - 09:16pm PT
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So, I just bought a number 4 Big Bro and some neoprene knee pads. NOW, I've got money into this thing! Turns out, if you're me, this is a big deal. In fact, I'd put this right up there with fear of failure as one of the top reasons I might pull this off. I mean, only because I don't have other, better stuff to count on.
For the record, my wide gear selection now consists of a #6 Camalot, a #5 Camalot, a #3 Big Bro, and a #4 Big Bro. I'm planning on borrowing another #6 Camalot from Prod for Lucille.
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Jul 21, 2011 - 09:25pm PT
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I may be up there. If so, I'll bring chicken wings... a bucket of 'em.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2011 - 09:38pm PT
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By the way, my plan is for Jaybro and Hankster and I (and Phantom X, if he wishes to participate) to attempt this thing. Since this is my thread, I get first lead rights. Assuming I assert my right and don't wuss out because I got the itus or something, I'll, you know, get on the sharp end to start off with. If I cannot make my attempt, and remember, this is still my thread and I can do pretty much whatever the hell I want, I will give Phantom X next lead rights. Now, because Phantom X is likely to wuss out (although I have no apriori knowledge of this), my backup plan is to pretty much let Jaybro and Hankster fight it out. Have I missed anything?
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Prod
Trad climber
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Jul 21, 2011 - 09:46pm PT
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I'll be there. And I have a #6 and #5 plus an old #5 which I think is between a new 5 and 6.
Prod.
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