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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 16, 2016 - 11:44am PT
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John, please join the favorite bouldering thread. Would love to hear some of your favorites or some great stories. You are a god to us pebble wrastlers.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Jan 16, 2016 - 01:10pm PT
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I did my share when I was younger and loved it. Most weeks it was the only climbing I got to do. Fortunately, I didn't do a lot of jumping off. This was in the days before pads, too, so coming off up high had especially dire consequences. I usually kept to climbs that I could handle, only tackling hard things that were very close to the ground or on top rope. The routine big leaps kidz are takin' these days? Ugh! I do know a couple of old climbers who suffered a lot from bouldering falls--feet and ankles. I have always been too chicken and too low talent to play the true highball game. These days, hiking towards mid 50's, I have no interest in the back/knee/ankle problems that can come from jumping/fall off big boulders. Just not worth it.
Climb on!
BAd
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Jan 19, 2016 - 01:46pm PT
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Bouldering is probably going to be as big as roped climbing. As more gear afraid gym climbers ventured to real rock, bouldering has attracted many of them. I guess exposure and gear scare a few.
As for its safety, the only time I have been seriously hurt was when bouldering. Broke my right foot twice.
Bouldering is righteous climbing. Always has been and always will be.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 19, 2016 - 01:51pm PT
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This thread needs a photo
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Jan 20, 2016 - 03:29pm PT
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As for its safety, the only time I have been seriously hurt was when bouldering
Me too, Mark. Pat Ament also. Probably others.
Not for sissies . . .
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Jan 20, 2016 - 03:52pm PT
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Me too---ACL rupture from jump onto a pad.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Some athletes just keep going and going, but I think many more discover that they have sold short aspects of their future health, and when the option calls come in, it turns out that there is a significant price to be paid for the accomplishments of youth.
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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ok it is fun, go do it, just keep calling it bouldering,... not climbing.
I printed a few different shirts for Art of Climbing and was careful not to offend the bouldering crowd that were the bulk of my customers... the shirt i always wanted to print, but never did was:
if it is not three pitches high
it is not worth doing
yes i know, thousands of fantastic shorter routes...
but
no rhythm of swapping leads,
little attention to conserving strength or water,
no awareness of weather,
no lunch together on a ledge,
no swallows jetting by
late in the day no sense of the air pausing to slide back down the canyon from whence it came,
and missing in bouldering, or short climbs is the sense of commitment that comes after the third pitch or so..
no sense of trust and perfect balance of individual effort to climb, but teamwork and interdependence to complete the climb safely.
The friendship and the sense of cooperation to succeed are much different with 9 pitches, than with 9 moves at the gym with a roof and lights. anybody with a grin and a grigri will do,? or a carefully selected and trusted friend... hmmmm.
pace?
knowing what it means when the pressure drops...
knowing the signs of the pressure dropping?
choosing a route for the day based on the temperature not which color the holds are?
OMG route finding!
in short, pun intended, climbing is not just gymnastics with rock, it is still climbing when it is 40 feet high, but the brainpower, and the experience with others, can be so much more, on long routes.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Ok, we get it.
You suck at bouldering.
:-)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2017 - 10:54pm PT
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Lol, what do we remember more?
Some amazing bouldering sessions stick in my mind, but so do many multi pitch routes.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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I'm not going to pick apart the Bannister Manifesto...much of it's valid, all of it opinion.
I'll say this.
Most of my best friends almost only boulder.
These are people who've been climbing for up to 35 years.
People that have climbed El Cap 40 times, done first ascents in Pakistan, climbed 5.12 in every state they've visited and abroad, machined your cams and sewed your aiders.
All those things you mentioned about roped mutipitch climbing, yeah, we feel ya. It's bitchin.
But there's a reason we mostly boulder now.
Speaking only for myself and not the whole DRL Nation™, after climbing in just about all disciplines for closer to 30 years, I find that the actual climbing is the icing on the cake. Connecting and hanging with interesting people in beautiful places, exploring, being close to my dog, making photos, always having a comfy Nap Station on hand- these are the things I value.
Heights, views, self reliance, sending temps, teamwork, route finding- all the sh¡t you mentioned about (roped)climbing, they're all there with bouldering, just without the rope and trinkets.
Bouldering used to be an essential part of calling yourself an all around climber. Now people say "I don't boulder!" and that bouldering' snot climbing.
Oh well, suit yourself.
:-)
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 10, 2017 - 01:06am PT
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Sorry, but bouldering was never "an essential part of calling yourself an all around climber".
And never will be.
It's just bouldering.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 10, 2017 - 01:16am PT
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That's right, it's just something you did if you were a climber. But obviously now, it's a whole lot more.
But sorry, you'll have to take that up with Royal Robbins, Ron Kauk, and Tommy Caldwell- who, when acclaimed as the best "all-around" climber in the world, includes his bouldering grades in his resume.
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Jan 10, 2017 - 11:52am PT
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Its all about being there in the moment. To me it does not matter if the climb is 2000m or 2m. Its nice to be outside with good companions regardless of size of the objective.
The real problem is spray. Do what you do for you only. Fame, or obscurity, will come regardless
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Jan 10, 2017 - 12:01pm PT
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Ondra did the Dawn Wall on his rest days from bouldering V16
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Jan 10, 2017 - 02:56pm PT
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and missing in bouldering, or short climbs is the sense of commitment ...
Surely you jest. I can't imagine doing this.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Jan 10, 2017 - 03:03pm PT
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EC, I'm with you on the 'Whatever'. Same has occurred at The Ridge. Tons of big formations, monster walls, domes, mega adventures all around......yet, the Mattress Mutts show up for a sesh, nary a rack amongst them. Limit yourself......dare you find yourself on desperate runout slab, Kiddos.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jan 11, 2017 - 08:08am PT
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Hey Mooch-
I went to "The Ridge". That place was awesome.
When I return I'm only bringing pads! Tons of exploring to do in the woods below those domes.
The bouldering was fantastic- the real meat of Shuteye climbing...
without all the "junk miles" lol!
I love climbing with a rope- but don't limit yourself- there's magic on the small stones!
"Mattress Mutts" lol!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 11, 2017 - 08:57am PT
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