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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Apr 30, 2010 - 04:11pm PT
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Your certainly right Del Cross about the approach. All the talk about how we've worked on the trail could lead someone to think that its an easy walk up now, but its still not at all that way! We did that work several years ago and its probably all overgrown again. A few of us know the way thats a fact and through lots of blood, sweat and poison oak we paid the dues. I would help anyone wanting to know, but thought I better put this disclaimer in. I've always heard it said that the approach is the crux and I think thats true today.
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Alois
Social climber
Idyllwild, California
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Apr 30, 2010 - 04:12pm PT
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Mooch, I might have said it a bit wrong. I wanted to say that if you do not bring crampons, what Kris did, was the way. I agree (especially early in the season, May, June,early July) crampons are very useful.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Apr 30, 2010 - 04:15pm PT
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Thx Radish, along with anyone else that has paid the dues on that thing.
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Alois
Social climber
Idyllwild, California
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Apr 30, 2010 - 04:20pm PT
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Del Cross, Miguel and I went up there first in 1985 (via Mineral King) and 1986, got stormed off 6th pitch of SL in 1987 and climbed SL and CRS in 1988. Spent time there in 1991-1992 as well looking around. So my remembering of the approach might be colored by the many times we were there. Herb L. laughed at our 5 hour approach, but the other way. He maintained that he could get up there in 3.5 hours easy...
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Spent a night outside in Seqouia this weekend. Cold and snowy but always beautiful. Never could get a clear shot of the Castles from ampitheather point on the generals highway. But, as you can see, lots and lots of snow in that gully. Think any of you who were planning on heading right up there might have to turn the page on the date book planner...........
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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"Turned out we didn't need that stuff, but we couldn't really ascertain the conditions in advance and didn't want to slog back there and then be beaten. It seemed like a couple of pounds of gear was worthwhile insurance."
Wise indeed!
Rene -
Thanks for the photo. Good update but I'm thinking things will begin to heat up and get that south facing area cleared up a bit. Still planning that "recon" date I told you about as to "refamiliarize" myself and get connected spiritually with such an awesome place. Think you can find a day that weekend and join up?
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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May 25, 2010 - 03:02pm PT
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Mungie and I took a peek back in the spires this past weekend. Ho Daddy!....the PO is in full strength this year!!! Ticks were out too. Got in some "gardening" as well. Alot of the work that was done 5 years ago had almost been taken back by Ma Nature!! Damn that buck brush.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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May 26, 2010 - 01:27pm PT
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Question for the Old Guard (Guido, Kris, Rene, Guyzo, Alois and a few other Old Dads)....
If you look at the formation in Rene's last photo he posted above (and Guido's very first shot taken from the north (assuming it was from the High Sierra Trail), does anyone know if that formation on the far left has ever seen an FA? As far as I know, there isn't anything on it. Got a decent look at this past weekend and looks like clean slab work for about 2 pitches before a slanting terrace breaks up the upper part of the formation and then has about another 2 pitches of clean rock above the terrace. We started referring to it as "Garde Nord" (or North Guard) since its the most significant formation to the north end of the Castle Rock Spires. Thoughts? Info?
The party that did CRS in 2009 posted on Moutainproject under the CRS page by the name of [a href=http://www.mountainproject.com/scripts/ShowObjectStats.php?id=106501642]"Schoney".....did it on June 19th[/a]. 'Course, you can add Munge and I for going back there this past weekend to recon/refamiliarize/"trail maintenance". ;)
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Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Culver City, CA
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May 26, 2010 - 02:06pm PT
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Sounds like I need to pre-order a prescription for prednisone if the Poison Oak is that bad already. I have plans to get in there in about a week or so.
The photo from earlier this month definitely shows quite a bit of snow still in the gully. Ultralight crampons and ice ax sound like good insurance for this time of year.
Bill
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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May 26, 2010 - 11:51pm PT
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Haven't heard of anyone on that side of the Castles......should be virgin, but the old trail goes right under it so don't know bout the old days. There is the old Trad Climbing Creedo though that says...anyone who wants to do a first ascent in an area should do one of the established routes first so they will know the style of the first ascentists before.....
Bill.....let me know when you go up.....I work in Ash Mountain and am interested to hear about your upcoming adventure. rardesch@aol.com
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Alois
Social climber
Idyllwild, California
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May 27, 2010 - 11:07am PT
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Dave and all, In 1985, when Miguel, Bob Lindgren and I approached CRS from Mineral King,(if I remember correctly), there were three formations as one leaves the trail and one gets closer to the Spire and the Fin. The slabs start going down a bit in the area. We climbed all three formations by 2-4 pitch routes (5.8-5.9). I have photos of the formations, but they are burried with countless other slides that I need to sort (one of these days). One of the formations was a good looking sort of triangular shape tower with slabs droping down on the approach. We went up in the middle of the slab.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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May 28, 2010 - 08:34am PT
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All due respect Rene, I've never heard of a Trad Climbers Creedo. Many (not all) of the mountains and formations throughout the Sierra Nevada were never climbed first before they were..... But I feel ya.
Hmmmm.....didn't know that Alois. Perhaps you should get that info into the next Secor guide. That way, if someone gets ambitious out there, no one is stepping on the FAist toes and crossing over onto an existing route (ie The Mike Strausmann Memorial Route). But that's another topic altogether.... ; )
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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May 30, 2010 - 03:57pm PT
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I think the routes Alois is talking about on the little domes are in the Upper Castles. Only because if you come in on the Mineral King side those would be the ones you reach first. There is a route up there on the highest dome"Ampitheater Dome" done by Roger Briggs of Colo. fame. I think its in an old guide for climbing in the Sierra. Dave, if the dome your thinking is the dome I'm thinking, I've got a hypothetical route scoped on that one also. When the lights right you can see it. We should compare notes. I'm available next weekend. Lets go...............
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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that reminds me I need to decontaminate my gear.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Nice Pic! I was going to go out this Sat. but I didn't hear from anyone so I said I would go with some folks up the South Face of Moro same day. Are you talking next weekend??
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Jordan Ramey
Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
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fire it tomorrow? we'll see.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Radish will know for sure, but I'll bet that's the first time someone's been plucked out of there by chopper.
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Jordan Ramey
Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Is there a route on the North Arete? I know cinco de mayo is on the west face and there is spike hairdo is sorta on the east face, but I think there are 5 established routes. Seems like all the routes start from the notch.
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