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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Aug 14, 2010 - 10:43pm PT
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Clint, thanks for that update about the upper pitch of Alchemist's. While on the Vision earlier this week, we gazed over at the first 2 pitches of Multiplication and they looked really excellent, but at least one or two bolts were old SMC hangers with what looked to be a rusty 1/4" (maybe 5/16"?) bolts. Still, looked good enough to warrant an ascent even with old bolts.
Having done some rebolting there, do you know if a 60m rap reaches from the tree at the top (bunch of slings) to the bolt belay of Alchemist's? And from there, can you reach the first anchor of Vision in another 60m rap? This would be a much better way to get down than traversing west and using the rappel that goes over the arch.
Finally, huge thanks to LongAgo for opening up this particular face. It's a wonderful piece of rock and the Vision is a wonderful route. Thanks, guys, for shining a light on it.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 14, 2010 - 10:46pm PT
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> do you know if a 60m rap reaches from the tree at the top (bunch of slings) to the bolt belay of Alchemist's?
Yes, this is how Bruce and I did the rebolting of p3 of the Vision.
>And from there, can you reach the first anchor of Vision in another 60m rap?
No, this does not reach that p1 anchor on The Vision.
I recall we rapped from a jammed rock/knot/sling at the ledge at the start of p3 of the Vision.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Aug 15, 2010 - 02:45am PT
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It is important to mention that when Clint and I replaced the bolts on the third pitch the first two bolts were next to each other and appeared that one was added to back up the first. Given this situation, I removed both bolts, but only replaced one.
Bruce
ps - we also replaced all eight bolts (2 belay and 6 protection) bolts on Mypopia on the other side of the arch from Vision on the same day. We replaced all the bolts on Faux Pas the next day across the way the next day.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Aug 11, 2014 - 12:32am PT
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Fantastic line. Old school t-Meadows...so good. Did it today with the NAKid.
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Burnin' Oil
Trad climber
CA
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Aug 27, 2018 - 09:35am PT
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The route does not see much traffic. A bit grassy and lichen-ishy. It took ten minutes to garden an anchor on the fourth pitch. Good route.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Aug 27, 2018 - 09:59am PT
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Burnin' Oil, thank you for bumping this. And the thread benefits from yur choice fotos.
Good old Gerooti root.
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Inner City
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Aug 27, 2018 - 02:09pm PT
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Plus one for the eastward walkoff route. A little scrubby but no raps..
Loved this route and that crux always gets one's attention. Tip top rock quality throughout..
ah the days..
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Aug 27, 2018 - 02:47pm PT
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Beautiful route based on those pictures.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2018 - 08:30pm PT
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George pulling into the crack above the crux
and taking off above
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Aug 27, 2018 - 09:37pm PT
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I really enjoyed that climb though it's been years since I did it.
It's back on my TM list:-)
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Aug 28, 2018 - 01:01pm PT
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I'm such a chicken. Those run-outs make me ill. Looks like great climbing, tho!
BAd
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Aug 28, 2018 - 03:21pm PT
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Looks delish!
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