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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2009 - 04:00am PT
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Thought I'd share some memories as well...
I was twenty four then, five years into climbing, when Ken Klis and I wandered back up the steep asphalt into the morning fog that frequently emcompasses Woodson that time of the year. But, this time, to enter into the comp scene, a place I'd only been once before at the 1982 comp at Magnolia Boulders in Santee. Though, then, I was more of an observer and alone without that security that comes with having a good partner with you.
We followed a steady flow of attendies up to the Painted Boulder where tables and chairs were set up to accommodate the entrants and the judges would inevitably tally the scores to announce the winners at the end of the competition. We were all supplied with a layout of the boulders and the problems with point values, including a score card that would eventually determine our fate. With Carmel Shimmel on the magaphone and the drone of anxious climbers it created an exciting yet nervous atmosphere. At 0730 the gun was fired and the comp began. We had until 1630 to tally the best ten scores with the lowest score being thrown out.
The first problem to go down was Driving South at 5.11d after waiting for Ray Olsen to top out first. This guy looked like a human pitbull if you haven't ever met him! Eric's Face on the Robbin's Boulder, and Lemon Shiffon nearby, went smoothly. Ken and I met up again and wandered higher up on the mountain using our best strategy, ie; keeping our ears open to avoid the sandbag's that were randomly scattered on the mountain. Jaw's and California Night added to my score. Pushing higher we rounded the switchback to where Mother Superior, with it's judge kicked back on top of the adjacent boulder in his beach chair, awaited it's next victim.
" Has anyone tried this yet this morning?" I asked.
" Only one. Ron Kauk did it earlier." The judge replied with a smile.
Nerves twisted my stomach in knots for I had a strong desire to get back on this incredible offwidth after a mini epic I had experienced in late '85 (http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=1158972;search_string=Warning%2C%20Mother%20Superior;#1158972);. This was the first time I had reconsidered getting back on this since then. Not having my Levis with me almost convinced me to keep walking when, just then, I noticed Jeff Almadovar appear.
"Hey Gary, you going to try this thing? You can wear my Levis if you want."
I guess that's all I needed for Jeff and I proceeded to exchange pants right there on the roadside! I was sure to tape my ankles and don my harness this time.
Descending into the dark cave below I met another judge who was there to spot me through the bottom section.
"Could you ask the crowd to keep it down a bit?" I asked the judge for I was a nervous wreck at this point. After quieting the cacophany of onlookers the judge took his position and I began my chalking ritual.
I conserved energy well through the Leavittation section and painfully pulled through the first crux. My knee hesitated coming out at first but released with relief. You could hear a pin drop as I traversed right and into the next overhanging face crux. Kipping high I reached the crimp with my left hand and laybacked up the friction ramps to the top. Wow, my first success on this mutha! I tried to fill the remaining slots on my scorecard including getting spanked on the Monkey Crack mantle. Walking back down the hill, passing Robbin's Crack, and having one more problem to go, I ran into Greg Epperson with camera in hand:
"Greg, help me out. I have one more problem to go and there's fifteen minutes left. What do you suggest?" I pleaded.
"Why don't you get on 5.10a On the Outside? I saw you do it the last time I ran into you. It gave the Stonemaster guys some trouble!" Greg suggested, turning and pointing over to the boulder.
Ken and I quickly ran down the road to the problem where a toprope lay in situ with no judge in attendance. I worked my way back over to the judges table and recruited the first available set of hands I could. Thank God for the late success to complete my tick!
Standing as close as I could I tried to get a good look at the scores as they began to tally. I was holding fourth place in the Open Division until a later finisher beat me out by five points and dropped me down to fifth. Climbing Magazine posted the top four entrants in each division and I missed out on my place in fame. I was still awarded a set of HB micronuts.
What a great day though and some awesome memories to reflect back on. Mt. Woodson still holds deep roots in my climbing twenty three years later. I enjoy watching the new, young generation of strong climbers for it impresses and humbles me. Better yet, I can't keep from breaking a sweat back up that darn HILL!
I agree Brad, let's have another Shindig!
Glory to God!
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Dec 12, 2009 - 11:48am PT
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Yeah I'm still alive Dogtown! Who the f*#k are you anyway? I remember that contest, we ended up boycotting it after they let Ron go first and preview everything. We all accepted the four way tie for second place...
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wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
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Dec 12, 2009 - 12:02pm PT
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Illusion Dweller, you just made my day. I've climbed with Ken Klis too. Had completely forgotten the name until you mentioned him. Do you stay in touch with him? Last I saw him (5-6 years ago) he was a badass blm or forest service conservation ranger in the SLO area, climbing and developing like a madman at bishop's peak, among others.
He does not put up schwag routes! I had a lot of fun when he gave me the full tour!
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Dec 12, 2009 - 12:33pm PT
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Wow, just reread some of the posts and found something rich..."so yeah, all the guys who were better that me like kauk, watusi, cannon, raker, entered this stonemaster pro contest." You were always light years ahead of me Steve!!
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Dec 12, 2009 - 04:25pm PT
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The GWBC was great fun. Think I placed 76th or there-abouts. Would like to see more pics... someone has to have some.
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Currently in San Diego
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Dec 12, 2009 - 04:54pm PT
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Speaking as someone who was 4 years old (albeit learning to climb trees in my back yard) at the time I think another shin dig of sorts would be great fun. I would be happy to get in on it. When would be a good time for it?
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2009 - 08:45pm PT
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Wild One, who are you? Do I know you?...Wow, Ken is still up in SLO as a park Ranger supervisor still tearing it up out on the rock! Since he moved and started a family of his own he never slowed down! Everytime I get the chance to speak to him on the phone, since then, he shares with me a big wall experience of his or something of the sort. I shake my head and wonder where I went astray, sheesh! The last time I saw him, last year, he invited me up to his place and took me out to the local mountains where Michael Jackson's Nevernever Land and Bo Derek's place is located, to climb on some weird conglomerate towers out there. He's in the middle of building his house after living in a trailer for many years. His parents still live in Rancho Bernardo. Ken is a little powerhouse that doesn't quit! I wish I had his motivation! If you want more contact info for him drop me a line on hotmail with this username. I'd be happy to get you back in touch with him!
Gary
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2009 - 09:18pm PT
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So a 2010 Shindig in the making? Shall we? The last Shindig was in June and it turned out to be scortchin' hot! The cooler month's start in October and go through April. I'm not willing to wait till October so what about February or March? Come on guys let's get a vote. Here's some weather info I just pulled up. "It is a snapshot of the page as it appeared on Dec 3, 2009 03:38:53 GMT."
FEBRUARY WEATHER IN SAN DIEGO:
THE AVERAGE DAILY MINIMUM IS 51.5 DEGREES AND THE AVERAGE DAILY MAXIMUM IS 66.3 DEGREES.IN MOST FEBRUARYS THE MAXIMUM REACHES 70 DEGREES OR EVEN 80
DEGREES AND ONCE IN 1921 IT SOARED TO 89 DEGREES. A FREEZING TEMPERATURE HAS NEVER BEEN REGISTERED DURING THE MONTH AT THE NATIONAL WEATHER SERVICE. THE LOWEST READING WAS 34 DEGREES IN 1891...1894...1899 AND 1911. THE MEAN RAINFALL FOR FEBRUARY IS NORMALLY 2.04 INCHES. THE AVERAGE NUMBER OF RAINY DAYS IS 6.
MARCH WEATHER IN SAN DIEGO:
TEMPERATURES CONTINUE TO CLIMB IN MARCH AND THE MONTHLY MEAN OF 60.0 DEGREES IS 1.1 DEGREE HIGHER THAN THAT OF FEBRUARY AND 2.2 DEGREES HIGHER THAN THAT OF JANUARY. THE AVERAGE DAILY MAXIMUM IS 66.3 DEGREES AND THE AVERAGE DAILY MINIMUM OF 53.6 DEGREES.OCCASIONALLY HOT DRY WINDS FROM THE INTERIOR HAVE CAUSED TEMPERATURES TO RISE WELL INTO THE 80S AND ON FOUR DAYS INTO THE 90S. THE LAST TIME A MAXIMUM TEMPERATURE OF 90 DEGREES OR ABOVE OCCURRED WAS ON THE 29TH OF 2005, WHEN THE TEMPERATURE SOARED TO 91 DEGREES. STILL IN THE RAINY SEASON, MARCH IS NORMALLY THE SECOND WETTEST
MONTH AVERAGING 2.26 INCHES AND 7 DAYS WITH MEASURABLE AMOUNTS.
And here are some charts on Ramona:
Are these month's too wet or what do you think? Mt. Woodson is always better cooler than hotter. Maybe if we schedule it over a three day weekend we'd have a better chance of a dry day if it rains?
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Currently in San Diego
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Dec 12, 2009 - 09:28pm PT
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March.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2009 - 09:37pm PT
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Yeah, I think from the middle towards the end of March as well when the chances of rain start to drop. How about March 19, 20, 21?
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BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
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Dec 12, 2009 - 10:02pm PT
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The last Shindig was April 28th Gary, it was just a rogue hot spell.
No, my memory ain't that good, there's a date stamp on the photo above, taken that day...
Here's another.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2009 - 11:31pm PT
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Darn it...I wasn't even there, who am I to say?! Ur right Brad. I for some reason thought it was June...probably the weather. Anyhow, mid March sound good to you? Anyone else interested?
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Dec 13, 2009 - 12:48am PT
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hey watusi, don't put yourself down. you were an inspirational boulderer to me, and since i could never ever do streetcar, though i watched you many times, you are THE MAN in my book aqnd always will be. ciao, brother
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2009 - 01:03am PT
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So, we have so far:
1. Gary aka illusiondweller
2. Brad aka Beehay
3. Porkchop_express
4. Bob aka BVB
5. mungeclimber
6.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 13, 2009 - 01:06am PT
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yep, watusi had the JT circuit as dialed as any man alive. same with woodson. in his prime he was a wonder to behold.
another shindig? i'm in.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2009 - 01:30am PT
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Guys/Gals,
Why don't we call it the 2010 Woodson Shindig/1986 GWBC Reunion? That would be awesome to have those that competed and at the '86 contest and those that were present at the last Shindig to return to be all together once again up on Woodson! Kauk, Paul, Griffith, Piggot, Cameron, et al to meet together for a historic get together/day of climbing up on the Hill! Come one come all, let's fill the mountain up with climbers as it use to be on March 19, 20, 21!
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