Slab Happy Pinnacle T.R.

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Mighty Hiker

Social climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Oct 14, 2009 - 10:15pm PT

Thanks - looks like a nice adventure.

Some new route up there could be called Dihardral With a Vengeance.

pyro

Big Wall climber

Calabasas

Oct 14, 2009 - 10:16pm PT

thanks-levy!

Studly

Trad climber

Oct 14, 2009 - 11:28pm PT

Cool! Got me stoked to climb there.

Darwin

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Oct 15, 2009 - 12:12am PT

I want to add a little perspective to Peter Hann's comment:
"I tried to push it free back in 1971. The crux is the ten feet after the chimney egress. The roof above is pretty mindblowing too but not quite as hard as the blank trough out of the chimney."

I was belaying Peter and I was in over my head. I don't know if Peter went back again later, but for that attempt I was still doing hip belays. Now, I was a lot shorter (shy of 5'7) and somewhat lighter than Peter, and even as a belayer I was scared. I never went in for practicing catching 150 lb duffel bags getting thrown off overhangs, and I just kept thinking "can I hold him?" and "god, what's going to happen to my delicate waist if I have to catch him". Cut from Levy's photo ,

I was tucked in the back of the lower dark chimney watching Peter as he moved out around the solid block that caps off the chimney, and it looked really really hard. I sometimes imagine that if Peter had a belayer who could conceivably have caught him, he would have finished the lead. Me, I'm just glad I didn't see the upper crux even if Peter says it's easier.

mucci

Trad climber

The pitch of Bagalaar above you

Oct 15, 2009 - 02:29am PT

Way to go Guys!

That stone looks bullet proof!

Way to go obscure.

Mucci

tom Carter

Social climber

May 21, 2011 - 09:09pm PT

Beautiful rock up there.

I remember Vern and George and me up there swapping leads and getting in those bolts. A number of tries per lead too. The whippers required us (both) belayers to run down hill with a bit of a jump off that ledge to take up the slack - kept everyone off the deck. Never went to the top?!! Damn.

nutjob

Gym climber

Berkeley, CA

May 22, 2011 - 10:39pm PT

Nice bump!

And I think the very first picture gives a unique angle and clear view of the raps off of Hawkman's Escape (i.e. the junction between Lower Brother and Middle Brother).

It might also show the top part of Split Pinnacle.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Jul 11, 2012 - 05:43pm PT

Update - the scary old bolts have all been replaced by Roger Brown.
For more details, see my post on Alexey's Left Side trip report:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1188773&tn=0#msg1875599

le_bruce

climber

Oakland, CA

Jul 11, 2012 - 06:32pm PT

Never seen better looking stone in all my days in the Valley than this picture:

Damn!

tom Carter

Social climber

Nov 26, 2012 - 01:27am PT

Thanks for the photos and memories!

It was super hot the day the 3 of freed the center rt. I remember all of us making it through sections and then pitching off a number of times.

Vern and I teamed up belaying George with the plan to jump off that ledge if he popped and he did!

Beautiful featured rock, interesting climbing. The rock is superb.

Thanks everyone!

TCarter

martygarrison

Trad climber

Washington DC

Nov 26, 2012 - 10:35am PT

Warbler I was just wondering if anyone ever did the Dihardral anymore. It was on must do list in the 70's as I remember.

bob

climber

Nov 26, 2012 - 10:53am PT

Oooooow that center route! I hopped on that rig last spring on a fairly warm day. The start is hard, but more of a puzzle than really hard.

What seemed really hard to me was that I only brought quick draws along and felt like I could have put a lot of gear in on the way up that face, or enough to make it feel reasonable. My mind is left with a super run route from my experience. Dumb decision on my part to go without the gear.

I WAS VERY HAPPY to clip the anchors. Amazing rock.

Go climb Random Blessings for some less intense adventure on some nice face up that way!

Thanks for posting and bumping!

Bob Jensen

martygarrison

Trad climber

Washington DC

Nov 26, 2012 - 11:59am PT

Yep, Stu Polack and I did it back in the day. We were pretty stealth climbers however, coming up every weekend from Modesto. Not really too much of the Valley scene.