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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Idaho, also. Sorta, kinda mostly, Yeah.
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Oct 18, 2009 - 07:30pm PT
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Master Stacker.
Yowza.
That's pretty frickin' cool.
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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Oct 18, 2009 - 08:14pm PT
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[photo[photo[photoid=131483]id=131482]id=131481]
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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Oct 18, 2009 - 08:15pm PT
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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Oct 18, 2009 - 08:16pm PT
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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Oct 18, 2009 - 08:17pm PT
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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Oct 18, 2009 - 09:41pm PT
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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Oct 18, 2009 - 11:23pm PT
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My best memory of Escalante Canyon and Charles, (Becker only addresses Chuck as Charles) was the "Blow Out Cracks." He flawlessly led what turned out to be a stiff 12 offwidth. No cams no bolts, just the stacks. He climbed till the rope was all used up, put a stacked hex belay together and brought me up. This was in January, it was getting cold and there was beer to drink and a campfire to sit around and play music, so we elected to bail. We fixed the rope to one of his more creative anchors and rappelled, leaving the rope fixed so we could jug up it the next day and finish the route. That night the wind was out of control. I mean serious wind. After a breakfast of beer and eggs we walked up to the route and found the hexs and rope on the ground, the wind had blown the anchor out!
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2009 - 01:06pm PT
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The fairly over vertical second pitch of Angels Away.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Oct 19, 2009 - 01:27pm PT
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Ya just gotta luv those racks--Hexes rule!!!!!
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Oct 19, 2009 - 01:47pm PT
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Hey Allen, in that photo of Chuck on Fringe, up at the top of the rack, is that a totally drilled out giant Forrest Titon?....shudder....
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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Oct 19, 2009 - 01:58pm PT
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Scott, that's what it is. I actually think that's how Forrest built them, with the holes. Chuck also had these blue t shaped things that I believe Paul Sibley made. He somehow made it all work. Climbing with Chuck was an adventure. Him driving was even more so.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Oct 19, 2009 - 02:02pm PT
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The only time I ever placed one of those was as an anchor at the top of steep cramponed snow pitch - sort of a mini "deadman".
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2009 - 06:52pm PT
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Not a bad use MossMan.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 28, 2009 - 11:34pm PT
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Twin sons of different mothers and a nutmaster after my own heart!
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homemade salsa
Trad climber
west tetons
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Nov 30, 2009 - 04:11pm PT
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Fringe of Death.... you know, I was there with a load of the Gunny-masters the day you guys did that. All kinds of strange noises emanating from the crack system, if I recall correctly. Then stories afterwards of loose boulders ready to eject from the crack and behead you, or at least chop your rope. Seems like it was right after Thanksgiving 1984...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 18, 2010 - 11:47pm PT
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Grossman Bump!
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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Sep 19, 2010 - 12:20am PT
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It's true about the rocks in the crack. At one point on the third pitch Chuck was kinda doing these weird chimney moves when all of a sudden the rock his back was pressing on flaked off in the form of a six foot by three foot slab, maybe eight inches thick. He screams to me to get small, so I stuffed the pack into the crack above me and hunkered down. That said if that thing had come down the crack I would have certainly been killed. Chuck knowing this starts to break the thing into smallish pieces that he could throw out beyond me into the talus. The whole time holding it in place with his back. This took at least an hour of struggle, screams, moans, and actual crying. God we were scared. But we pushed on and I finished the last pitch in the dark. The descent was just as bad as the climb. I don't recall anyone else out there. But it was around Thanksgiving but I think in 86.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 19, 2010 - 12:45am PT
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Right on cue Allen! Story here?
From Vertigo Games.
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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Sep 19, 2010 - 01:00am PT
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Oh man the "Vertigo Games" chapter. I've always hated it and so does Chuck. That's along story. That said Glen took a lot of liberties with our actual account. Oh well it's old news. We did have a lot of fun doing it. Everyone had worked it from Jimmy Dunn to Bryan Becker to no avail. I think it was the first time we realized we might just climbing as well as the elders of our group. That being the Springs/Gunnison crowd.
The following year Philo and Chuck did a harder route on the roof called "Double Time at Sues." That thing is a monster. Much harder and more dangerous. Phil can tell that story. I doubt it's had a second ascent. I ran into the climbs namesake right under it this past Summer. Had a hard time not busting up.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2010 - 01:03am PT
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Was she still hot?
Mark never made it past the point in the picture.
Chuck had many other better pictures.
There is only one fuzzy one of the actual FA.
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