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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Oct 15, 2009 - 02:20pm PT
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"Thinking about trying to lead Harry Daley this year .. how much do people use offset nuts / cams on the first pitch ?
I followed that pitch twice in 2006, and am a little intimidated .. I'm also interested in leading Bishop's Terrace and After Seven."
While it's always good to consider what pro to bring, you can overthink it. Think about how many times this has been climbed prior to the advent of offsets and you'll answer your own question.
It's a great route that pros well. If you take your time to place good pro, you'll get good pro. Go for it and have fun.
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zeta
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2009 - 02:31pm PT
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i led the first pitch of Harry Daley and agree that the first move was trickiest--but if your belayer is spotting you well, you'll be fine. Didn't use any off-set nuts/cams, just nuts and then got some small cams in higher up. Then was fine. It was super fun! I think it's one of my favorite leads.
for Bishop's Terrace--I had followed it maybe 3 or 4 times before I led it. It was fine, but I was bummed when I wanted the #2 cam for the last section and had no pro. Other than that, it was great.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Oct 15, 2009 - 02:34pm PT
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I have always enjoyed the Daley Route on Monday Morning, but the route shown in ST is really a hybrid. The first pitch shown is the first pitch of the Chouinard Variation. The original first pitch (and still, in my opinion, quite worthwhile) starts farther to the right, and after a short friction move, goes up a right-facing lieback to the cieling that traverses the face. A flared undercling in that cieling is always my psychological crux when leading, but after a move or two, easy cracks lead over the cieling to a ledge (about the width of one's foot) leading left to the first belay spot.
It's much more roundabout -- and substantially less sustained -- than the route shown in ST. It protects well easily (I first did it clean in 1971, using mostly Clog hexes and Peck Crackers). Protection in the holes in the Chouinard Variation pitch one is much more tricky.
Still both are extremely enjoyable routes, and the second pitches of both are true classics.
Have fun!
John
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Oct 15, 2009 - 03:01pm PT
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Thanks for the advice all !
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Oct 15, 2009 - 03:38pm PT
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Rob,
the way you climb, a small rack is all you'll need. Heck, make it a little more
interesting and just take stoppers and hexes. Both, nice routes!
Doug
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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May 10, 2010 - 08:55pm PT
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Went back and led Bishop's Terrace, After Seven and Harry Daley. Really fun climbs ! Zeta, hope you are climbing strong these days.
OW's are an achilles heel of mine, though I've led wider 5.7 cracks like Turkey Pie, Anti-Ego Crack and somehow managed to get up the wide section on Bishop's Terrace =:-O
I see there is wideness on the upper second pitch of Ejesta and the first pitch of Selaginella. I wonder if I should brush up on my french free technique :)
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zeta
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2010 - 09:07pm PT
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awesome, glad you did those! 2nd pitch of Ejesta is really fun--and the airy corner is super fun to do... i also recommend Golden Needles (led the 1st pitch but after following the 2nd pitch, I definitely want to lead the 2nd pitch!)
enjoy!
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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May 10, 2010 - 09:21pm PT
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I did Stonequest recently.
Highly recommended fun, moderate climb. Not really +, and not very R.
Good early 5.8 lead
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 10, 2010 - 09:27pm PT
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Harry Daily direct.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 10, 2010 - 09:58pm PT
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Got to say that Yosemite granite doesn't lend itself to myriads of quality 5.8's, you have to go to the Gunks, Eldo or maybe Red Rocks for that.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 10, 2010 - 10:31pm PT
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Here is a list of many of the 5.8 and under in the Valley sorted by area
Hayley Anna 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Parkline Slab
Farm Alarm 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Parkline Slab
Too High 5.6 Lower Merced Canyon, North Parkline Slab
Parkline Slab; Right Side 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Parkline Slab, Parkline Pinnacle
Juliette's Flake, Left Side 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Arch Rock Area
Kindergarten Crack 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Arch Rock Area
The Nerf Test 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Arch Rock Area
Original Route, Arch Rock Pinnacle 5.5 Lower Merced Canyon, North Arch Rock Area
Juliette's Flake, Right Side 4 Lower Merced Canyon, North Arch Rock Area
Capital Punishment 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Oreo Cliff
Hobknob 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Oreo Cliff
Corn Corner 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Oreo Cliff
The Cookie 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North The Cookie Cliff
Elevator Shaft 5.8 R Lower Merced Canyon, North The Cookie Cliff
Escape 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North The Cookie Cliff
Nurdle 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Pat and Jack Pinnacle
Gilligan's Chicken 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Pat and Jack Pinnacle
Jack Pinnacle, Right 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Pat and Jack Pinnacle
Pat Pinnacle 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Pat and Jack Pinnacle
Golden Needles 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Cascade Fall, Left
Mud Shark 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Cascade Fall, Left
Just Scraping By 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Cascade Fall, Right
Notably Knobular 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Cascade Fall, Right
Psuedo Desperation 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North This and That Cliff
Chicken Pox 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North New Diversions Cliff
Holidays 5.8 R/X Lower Merced Canyon, North New Diversions Cliff
Jugs 5.8 R/X Lower Merced Canyon, North New Diversions Cliff
Electric Gully 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North New Diversions Cliff
Chimney for Two 5.6 Lower Merced Canyon, North New Diversions Cliff
Tail End 5.6 Lower Merced Canyon, North New Diversions Cliff
Knob Hill Rapist 5.8 R/X Lower Merced Canyon, North Knob Hill
Movin' to Montana 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Knob Hill
Anti-Ego Crack 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Knob Hill
Chicken Pie (Turkey Pie) 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Knob Hill
Pot Belly 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Knob Hill
Sloth Wall 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Knob Hill
Turkey Pie (Chicken Pie) 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Knob Hill
Sloppy Seconds 5.5 Lower Merced Canyon, North Knob Hill
5.8 Chimney 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Goldrush Area
Bongs Away, Left 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Reed's Pinnacle Area
Ejesta 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Reed's Pinnacle Area
The Gray Bullet 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Reed's Pinnacle Area
Andy's Inferno 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Reed's Pinnacle Area
The Remnant, Right Side 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Reed's Pinnacle Area
The Rorp 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Reed's Pinnacle Area
The Iota 5.4 Lower Merced Canyon, North Reed's Pinnacle Area
Keystone Corner 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Five and Dime Cliff
Mockery 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Five and Dime Cliff
Inner Reaches 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Five and Dime Cliff
Figment 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North The Mojo Tooth, Left
Mojo Tooth 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North The Mojo Tooth, Left
Yuk 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North The Mojo Tooth, Right
The Dove 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Audubon Buttress
Birds of a Feather 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Audubon Buttress
Angelina 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Little Wing Area
Building Blocks 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Little Wing Area
L.D Getaway 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Little Wing Area
Squeeze-n-Tease 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, North Little Wing Area
Andy DeVine 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Little Wing Area
He Can't Shout, Don't Hear You 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Little Wing Area
Scuz Ball 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, North Little Wing Area
El Capitan Gully 4 El Capitan
J.M. Barrie 5.8 El Capitan West Buttress, Base
Tinkerbell, Left 5.7 El Capitan West Buttress, Base
Delectable Pinnacle, Right Side 5.7 El Capitan Southwest Face, Base Delectable Pinnacle
Delectable Pinnacle, Left Side 5.3 El Capitan Southwest Face, Base Delectable Pinnacle
Pine Line 5.7 El Capitan Southwest Face, Base Moby Dick to S. Butt.
Little John, Left 5.8 El Capitan Southwest Face, Base La Cosita to Little John
Little John, Right 5.8 El Capitan Southwest Face, Base La Cosita to Little John
La Cosita, Left 5.7 El Capitan Southwest Face, Base La Cosita to Little John
Blazo 5.8 X El Capitan Southeast Face, Base Rock Neurotic to Gollum
Gollum, Right Side 5.8 El Capitan Southeast Face, Base Rock Neurotic to Gollum
The Footstool, Left Side 5.8 El Capitan Southeast Face, Base The Footstool
The Footstool, Right Side 5.4 R El Capitan Southeast Face, Base The Footstool
Schultz's Ridge 5.7 El Capitan Schultz's Ridge, East
Rectum Ranch 5.8 El Capitan Schultz's Ridge, West
Agricultural Manuvers in the Dark 5.8 El Capitan Loggerhead Buttress
Sorry Poopsie 5.8 El Capitan Loggerhead Buttress
Loggerhead Ledge Route 5.7 El Capitan Loggerhead Buttress
After Seven 5.8 El Capitan Eagle Creek Area Manure Pile Buttress
C.S. Concerto 5.8 El Capitan Eagle Creek Area Manure Pile Buttress
Nutcracker 5.8 El Capitan Eagle Creek Area Manure Pile Buttress
After Six 5.7 El Capitan Eagle Creek Area Manure Pile Buttress
After Five 5.7 El Capitan Eagle Creek Area Commissioner Buttress
Lower Brother, Southwest Arete, Left 5.6 Three Brothers Lower Brother
Lower Brother, West Face, Middle 5.6 Three Brothers Lower Brother
Lower Brother, Southwest Arete, Right 5.5 Three Brothers Lower Brother
Lower Brother, West Face, North Corner 5.3 Three Brothers Lower Brother
Lower Brother, Michael's Ledge 4 Three Brothers Lower Brother
Nutty Buddy 5.8 Three Brothers Lower Brother 4th Street Area
Middle Brother, Southwest Arete, Right 5.7 Three Brothers Middle Brother
Middle Brother, from Michael's Ledge 4 Three Brothers Middle Brother
Middle Brother, West Face 4 Three Brothers Middle Brother
Tweedle Dee 5.8 Three Brothers Middle Brother Camp 4 Wall, Far Left
Cid's Embrace 5.8 Three Brothers Middle Brother Camp 4 Wall, Center
The Sunday Tree 5.6 Three Brothers Middle Brother Camp 4 Wall, Right
R.F. 5.8 Yosemite Falls Upper, West Third Tier
Roger Stokes Route 5.8 Yosemite Falls Upper, West Third Tier
Aquamist 5.6 Yosemite Falls Upper, West Upper Falls Trail
Selaginella 5.8 Yosemite Falls Upper, West Second Tier
Arrowhead Spire, Northeast Side 5.8 Yosemite Falls Upper, East Arrowhead Arete Area
East Arrowhead Buttress, Overhang Bypass 5.7 Yosemite Falls Upper, East Arrowhead Arete Area
Yosemite Point Couloir 5.7 Yosemite Falls Upper, East Arrowhead Arete Area
Arrowhead Spire 5.5 Yosemite Falls Upper, East Arrowhead Arete Area
Arrowhead Spire, East Face 5.5 Yosemite Falls Upper, East Arrowhead Arete Area
Arrowhead Spire, South Arete 5.5 Yosemite Falls Upper, East Arrowhead Arete Area
Castle Cliffs 4 Yosemite Falls Upper, East Yosemite Point Buttress
Claude's Delight 5.7 Yosemite Falls Lower, West Swan Slab
Penelope's Problem 5.7 Yosemite Falls Lower, West Swan Slab
Swan Slab Squeeze 5.7 Yosemite Falls Lower, West Swan Slab
Hanging Flake 5.6 Yosemite Falls Lower, West Swan Slab
Oak Tree Flake 5.6 Yosemite Falls Lower, West Swan Slab
Swan Slab Gully 5.6 Yosemite Falls Lower, West Swan Slab
Swan Slab Chimney 5.5 Yosemite Falls Lower, West Swan Slab
The Caverns 5.8 Yosemite Falls Lower, West Five Open Books
The Hanging Teeth 5.8 Yosemite Falls Lower, West Five Open Books
Jughead 5.8 R Yosemite Falls Lower, West Five Open Books
The Surprise 5.8 Yosemite Falls Lower, West Five Open Books
Try Again Ledge 5.8 Yosemite Falls Lower, West Five Open Books
Antique 5.7 R Yosemite Falls Lower, West Five Open Books
Munginella 5.6 Yosemite Falls Lower, West Five Open Books
Start Me Up 5.4 Yosemite Falls Lower, West Five Open Books
Grove Route 5.8 R/X Yosemite Falls Lower, East Sunnyside Bench, Left
Isoceles, Right 5.8 Yosemite Falls Lower, East Sunnyside Bench, Left
Lieback Route 5.8 Yosemite Falls Lower, East Sunnyside Bench, Left
Scrooged 5.8 Yosemite Falls Lower, East Sunnyside Bench, Left
Tiny Tim 5.7 X Yosemite Falls Lower, East Sunnyside Bench, Left
Guides Route 5.6 R/X Yosemite Falls Lower, East Sunnyside Bench, Left
Sunnyside Bench 5.2 Yosemite Falls Lower, East Sunnyside Bench, Left
Mothballed 5.1 Yosemite Falls Lower, East Sunnyside Bench, Left
Sunnyside Bench, Regular Route 5.0 Yosemite Falls Lower, East Sunnyside Bench, Left
Pygmy Pillar 5.7 Yosemite Falls Lower, East Sunnyside Bench, Right
Lower Yosemite Falls, West Corner 5.7 Yosemite Falls Lower Falls, Right
Gorge Traverse 5.6 Yosemite Falls Lower Falls, Right
As It Is 5.8 The Royal Arches Church Bowl
Bishop's Terrace 5.8 The Royal Arches Church Bowl
Black is Brown 5.8 The Royal Arches Church Bowl
Church Bowl Lieback 5.8 The Royal Arches Church Bowl
Church Bowl Terrace 5.8 The Royal Arches Church Bowl
Stephanie's Corner 5.8 The Royal Arches Church Bowl
Uncle Fanny 5.7 The Royal Arches Church Bowl
Church Bowl Chimney 5.6 The Royal Arches Church Bowl
Aunt Fanny's Pantry 5.4 The Royal Arches Church Bowl
Lost Flake 5.6 The Royal Arches Church Bowl, Far Right
Trial by Fire 5.8 The Royal Arches Serenity Crack Area
Cornball 5.7 The Royal Arches Base
The Trowell 5.7 The Royal Arches The Shining
Hershey Highway 5.8 The Royal Arches Terrace Area
The Kids are All Right 5.7 The Royal Arches Terrace Area
Lower Arch Traverse 5.3 The Royal Arches Terrace Area
Piton Traverse 5.7 Washington Column
Washington Column, Direct Route 5.7 Washington Column
Lunch Ledge 5.6 Washington Column
Skid Row 5.8 Washington Column North Dome
Werner's Crack 5.8 Tenaya Canyon, North Mirror Lake
Snow Creek Slabs 5.7 Tenaya Canyon, North Snow Creek
Watkins Pinnacles, from Tenaya Canyon 5.8 Tenaya Canyon, North Mt. Watkins
Middle Watkins Pinnacle 4 Tenaya Canyon, North Mt. Watkins
Cloud's Rest, Northwest Face 5.8 Tenaya Canyon, South Cloud's Rest
Cloud's Rest, Northwest Ledges 5.5 Tenaya Canyon, South Cloud's Rest
Grizzly Peak, West Face 5.5 Half Dome
Diving Board - West Side 4 Half Dome
Grizzly Peak, Southwest Arete 4 Half Dome
LeConte Gully 4 Half Dome
Diving Board - From Little Yosemite 3 Half Dome
Diving Board - From Mirror Lake 3 Half Dome
Grizzly Peak, From its Notch 3 Half Dome
Grizzly Peak, South Arete 3 Half Dome
Snake Dike 5.7 R Half Dome Southwest Face
Happy Gully 5.8 Half Dome South Face
Sierra Point, Southeast Farce 5.6 Upper Merced Canyon, North Sierra Point
Vernal Falls, Right Side 5.8 Upper Merced Canyon, North Vernal Falls
Starr King, Mt., West Face 5.8 Little Yosemite Valley Mt. Star King
Starr King, Mt., East Face 5.7 Little Yosemite Valley Mt. Star King
Starr King, Mt., From the Southeast Saddle 4 Little Yosemite Valley Mt. Star King
Starr King, Mt., Northeast Slopes 4 Little Yosemite Valley Mt. Star King
Panorama Cliff 5.4 Upper Merced Canyon, South Panorama Cliff
George's Secretary 5.8 Upper Merced Canyon, South Illilouette Gorge
Tennis Shoe Crack 5.6 Upper Merced Canyon, South Illilouette Gorge
Illilouette Falls, West Side 4 Upper Merced Canyon, South Illiouette Falls
Harding Route 5.7 Glacier Point
Glacier Point Terrace 5.2 Glacier Point
The Cow, Left 5.8 R Glacier Point Apron, East
The Grack, Right Side 5.8 R/X Glacier Point Apron, East
Roller Coaster 5.8 R/X Glacier Point Apron, East
The Cow, Right 5.7 Glacier Point Apron, East
The Grack, Left Side 5.7 Glacier Point Apron, East
Glacier Point, East Face 5.6 Glacier Point Apron, East
The Grack, Center Route 5.6 Glacier Point Apron, East
The Cow, Center 5.5 R Glacier Point Apron, East
Harry Daley Route 5.8 Glacier Point Apron, Center
The Hinterland (Oasis to rim) 5.8 Glacier Point Apron, Center
Monday Morning Slab, Far East 5.8 Glacier Point Apron, Center
Patio Pinnacle, Regular Route 5.8 R Glacier Point Apron, Center
Patio Pinnacle, Right Side 5.8 Glacier Point Apron, Center
Chouinard Crack 5.7 Glacier Point Apron, Center
The Goblet, Center 5.6 Glacier Point Apron, Center
The Goblet, Left 5.4 Glacier Point Apron, Center
The Goblet, Right 5.4 Glacier Point Apron, Center
Monday Morning Slab, Right Side 5.4 Glacier Point Apron, Center
Monday Morning Slab, Left Side 5.2 Glacier Point Apron, Center
Wild Wild West 5.7 Glacier Point Apron, Far West
Point Beyond Direct 5.8 Glacier Point Apron, West
Cosmic Comedy 5.7 Glacier Point Apron, West
The Bannister 5.8 Sentinel Rock
The Block 5.5 Sentinel Rock
Sentinel Rock, East Arete 5.5 Sentinel Rock
Sentinel Spire 5.5 Sentinel Rock
Potato Masher 5.4 Sentinel Rock
The Nail 4 Sentinel Rock
Chockblock Chimney 5.8 Sentinel Rock Chapel Wall, Right
The Den 5.8 Sentinel Rock Chapel Wall, Right
Icons of Filth 5.7 Sentinel Rock Chapel Wall, Right
Bryan's Crack 5.8 Sentinel Rock Chapel Wall, Far Right
Tilted Mitten, Right Side 5.8 Sentinel Rock Sentinel Creek Area
The Bay Bush 5.6 Sentinel Rock Sentinel Creek Area
Pohono Pinnacle; North Face 5.6 Sentinel Rock Sentinel Creek Area
Pohono Pinnacle; Northwest Corner 5.6 Sentinel Rock Sentinel Creek Area
Pohono Pinnacle; West Sope 4 Sentinel Rock Sentinel Creek Area
Pharaoh's Beard, Regular Route 5.8 Sentinel Rock Pharaoh's Beard Area
Lost Brother, Regular Route 5.6 Sentinel Rock Lost Brother
Promulgated Pinnacle 5.5 Sentinel Rock Lost Brother
Lost Brother, Southwest Side 4 Sentinel Rock Lost Brother
Taft Point Arete 5.7 Sentinel Rock Taft Point
Hangover Buttress 5.8 Cathedral Rocks Phantom Pinnacle Area
The Ski Jump 5.7 Cathedral Rocks Phantom Pinnacle Area
Church Tower, Southwest Notch 5.8 Cathedral Rocks Cathedral Spires Area
Church Tower, North Face 5.6 Cathedral Rocks Cathedral Spires Area
Church Tower, East Arete 5.5 Cathedral Rocks Cathedral Spires Area
The Braille Book 5.8 Cathedral Rocks Higher Cathedral Rock
The Dictionary 5.8 Cathedral Rocks Higher Cathedral Rock
The Sequel 5.8 Cathedral Rocks Higher Cathedral Rock
The Syllable 5.8 Cathedral Rocks Higher Cathedral Rock
Cathedral Chimney 5.7 Cathedral Rocks Higher Cathedral Rock
Penny Pinnacle; North Face 5.7 Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock
Middle Cathedral Rock, Northwest Buttress 5.6 Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock
Penny Pinnacle; South Face 5.5 Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock
Gunsight 4 Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock
The Pedistal 5.8 Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress
Stand and Deliver 5.8 Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress
Desperate for Doughnuts 5.8 Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock, North Face, Apron
The Flakes 5.8 R Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock, Gunsight Gully Area
Overhang Bypass 5.7 Cathedral Rocks Lower Cathedral Rock, North Buttress Area
Leaning Tower, Traverse 5.5 Cathedral Rocks Leaning Tower
Leaning Chimney 5.4 Cathedral Rocks Leaning Tower
Leaning Tower, East Face 5.4 Cathedral Rocks Leaning Tower
Leaning Tower, Northeast Slopes 4 Cathedral Rocks Leaning Tower
Amoeba, The Left Side 5.8 Cathedral Rocks Leaning Tower, Base
The Cracker, Right Side 5.7 Cathedral Rocks Leaning Tower, Base
Rycrisp 5.7 Cathedral Rocks Leaning Tower, Base
The Cracker, Southwest Corner 5.5 Cathedral Rocks Leaning Tower, Base
Improbable Traverse 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, South Pulpit Rock, Southeast Face
Lost on Venus 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, South High Pressure Cliff
Shiver-Me-Timbers 5.8 Lower Merced Canyon, South Cream Area
The Rostrum, From the Notch 5.4 Lower Merced Canyon, South The Rostrum, West, Base
The Rostrum, The Notch Route 5.4 Lower Merced Canyon, South The Rostrum, West, Base
Real Error 5.7 Lower Merced Canyon, South Elephant Rock, East Side
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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May 10, 2010 - 10:54pm PT
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Some routes in the High Sierra that are on my to-do list (someday) -
Mt. Sill, Swiss Arete (5.7)
Charlotte Dome, South Face (5.8)
Bear Creek Spire, North Arete (5.8)
Matterhorn Peak, North Arete (5.7)
Mt. Conness, West Ridge (5.6)
Mt. Whitney, East Buttress (5.7 - 5.8)
btw I notice the supertopo for Selaginella recommends it for 5.8 - 5.9 leaders. Presently I think I'm more of a 5.7 - 5.8 leader, honestly.
I notice some warnings above .. any other recommendations on 5.8's that might be a bit too much to bite off right now ?
btw2 Looking forward to doing South Crack again this summer :)
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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May 10, 2010 - 11:01pm PT
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Bishop's Terrace is a must-do 5.8. Very well protected too, just hold onto your #2 Camalots (maybe a #3 too) for the top section as much as possible.
Try to run-out the lower section with smaller gear. It's pretty easy. Just look for smaller pro, save the bigger stuff for the top.
It's not that hard if you're comfortable TRing 5.8, 5.9. Just stay in the cracks and and use flesh. Tape is for pussies! Jam, baby!
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monolith
climber
Berkeley, CA
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May 11, 2010 - 12:06am PT
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I loved the first pitch of Selaginella, but my follower yelled 'get me out of here' in such a way that I knew I could not talk him into going further so I had to lower him and bail. Funny how climbing perception can be sometimes.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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May 11, 2010 - 12:09am PT
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I thought the South Face of North Dome route is one of the Valley Classics! Didn't see it on anybodys list? Great position, good and hard pitches and its rating is sandbagged. 5.8 would be sensible and more real, what do you think??.
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Gary Carpenter
climber
SF Bay Area
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May 11, 2010 - 01:15am PT
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Notably Knobular 5.8X as I recall.
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Hell A
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May 11, 2010 - 01:23am PT
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Harry Daley, Bishops Terrace
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Daphne
Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
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May 11, 2010 - 01:58am PT
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Wow, Ed! Thanks for that extensive list! I'm copying it off right now and will get right on it. Woo hoo!
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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May 11, 2010 - 11:18am PT
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The s. face of north dome is a gem. the reason it's not here is that it has traditionally been rated 5.7. 5.8 is it's supertopo upgrade, but a fair one.
Per Reid, arrowhead arête is one of the best 8's in the valley! Braille Book too.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!