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Floridaputz
Trad climber
Oakland Park Florida
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2010 - 03:02pm PT
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Well, 6 Months out from a total hip replacement, I decieded the time had come to test my new titanium joint. Cochise Stronghold had been the next destination on my mind when I was still healthy and climbing, so I decieded to pick up where I left off. 3 months of gym climbing was my preparation. I was unsure of how well I could do but decieded to go anyway.
approaching Whale Dome to Climb Moby Dick.
Standing at the base getting ready for the first pitch, I felt out of shape, weak and completely unready for the Climb. I was climbing with Ken, a friend but not a trad leader. So like usual I was at the sharp end. We watched a Japaninese couple do the first pitch and Ken commented "that looks pretty easy !" I was thinking "not to me !"
I stared blankly at the wierd formation at the base fully realizing that one small fall and I would likely ruin my newly repaired hip and that would be very bad.
The first pitch is fairly sustianed, but soon I felt the old me come out and I was at the belay before I knew it. The climb is pretty run out for the most part but as I got more warmed up I felt better and better.
My partner was happy that I didn't fall (and land on him)
I was pretty happy not to land on him too !
Next was Ewephoria on Sheepshead
I was excited about climbing this route, my confidence had been restored on Moby Dick, and it looked excellent.
P1 on Ewephoria was interesting to me. I think it's rated 5.6, but I had read numerous accounts online calling it a sanbag and probably more like 5.8-5.9. I love to climb stuff that people call sandbagged just to see for myself. Let's just say 5.6 it is not. Very slippery. After P1 the route becomes kinda sporty, with tightly bolted cruxes, and regular gear on the easier parts.
Belay P4
The highlight was doing the "too tough to die" Finish. But I would highly recommend this climb to anyone. Awesome.
We were happy to be there. So anyway, the point of this is to let my fellow "old timers" know that there is life after joint replacement. The testimonials in this thread really made me believe that it was possible for me to Climb again.
I was truely terrified by the prospect of being done with climbing for good. I'm not done yet. Far from it. I want to thank the other climbers from the super taco for giving me some examples of people who had overcome major surgery and climbed again.
I hope that this can serve as inspiration to any other climbers who are faced with this challange.
Thanks
Tim
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 19, 2010 - 03:06pm PT
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Martin Boysen is sending 5.12 at the age of 67 with two hip replacements. Kitty Calhoun has had both hips re-surfaced and is tearing it up.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Feb 19, 2010 - 03:52pm PT
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Good job and great pics !!
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slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
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Feb 19, 2010 - 04:48pm PT
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Hip is fine 5 years out. I don't know why I waited. It's the REST of me that's whacked.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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Feb 19, 2010 - 04:54pm PT
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Keep the weight off, watch your diet and follow your PT regimen to the end. Then take it up a notch if it feels right. Rinse & repeat until you're climbing what you want. Hopefully you've got another 40+ years left to enjoy.
Good luck.
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originalpmac
Mountain climber
Anywhere I like
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Feb 19, 2010 - 05:25pm PT
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my good friend Chris Dobbins has had both hips replaced, cobalt, cause he wore them out skiing his whole life. 46 years old, i think? He still skies hard, climbs hard ice all winter and still rock climbs, though at an easier standard. Bad ass mother fu(ker from the mountains of CO, can drink like a fish and drive over Red Mountain after splitting 3 pitchers of PBR and a six pack of Tecate.
pierce
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Feb 19, 2010 - 06:16pm PT
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Great to see it has been such a success!
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