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Rankin
climber
North Carolina
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Sep 30, 2009 - 11:03am PT
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No way do you need that big of a cam on SS. I took a #5 WC and would have been fine with less. As seen in the photos, plug that baby at the bottom of the Narrows, get up in that thing, game over...laugh your way to the belay ledge.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Soon enough it'll be just another great story, mimed in the firelight.
Nice.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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"I want to mention though that I climb predominantly in Gunks (read roofs/overhangs) and even 5.8-5.9 chimney/squeez/OW is a challenge." If it makes you feel any better, I've climbed in the Valley for over 40 years and "5.9 chimney" still scares me more than "5.11 face."
I agree with those who think the flare below the Narrows is the scariest pitch on the route. Burly and not all-that-great pro.
Incidentally, a friend of mine did the SS last weekend, and did the outside variation rather than the Narrows. He said the protection for the initial moves is the same as that for the Narrows. He also said there were a couple of original Salathe bolts with dubious hangers, but overall the protection is fine. I wouldn't know because I've never tried to go that way.
John
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Mr_T
Trad climber
The 7th Pin Scar on Serentiy Crack
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A 9-12 inch would let you do the outside stem variation! Go for it!
(Don't bring a #9 for the Narrows - will get in the way.)
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Mike is right about the outside var. We were fine with just a #4 Friend. But it's only one move of 5.9c+ at the lip, then 5.9b later on. Pitch before is no terror either, it really is only 5.8b (burly). Just go climb. It's a solid old style route, if difficulty of individual bits is a concern, you're probably toast. Great route, great setting, long descent though. Don't lug a lot of excess or big gear, it's so much work already that the extra weight is a bad idea.
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wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
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I've actually heard that the best protection to take is technique.
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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I wouldn't want that big sucker battering my knee for just one move that is really pretty easy.
The big deal on a route like this is speed. Keep your changeovers quick and your gear organized. I would also put your gear on an old school over the shoulder gear sling. They are super for chimneys and offwidths. You will figure it out.
Speed will get you home before dark. I am like Donini on this..don't take too much crap because it will slow you down. Speed is about organization and changeovers at the belays. Always keep someone climbing. Can't stress that one enough.
Other than that, the route is a ton of fun, especially the upper part.
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okie
Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
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Base104, from an oil field... Hmm... Hearndon?
I remember the Narrows as being the place I ran out of gas. Very claustrophobic unless you are a skinny sport climber, which I am not. Don't wear a helmet- it won't fit. Don't wear anything at all, especially big cams... You can't really rate these things- the chimney below goes at 5.8 or 10b. The higher rating sells more guidebooks...
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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I've done it twice, BITD. I don't remember there being any protection at all (this is precam) in the Narrows. I guess there could have been a fixed bong up there I've conveniently forgotten, but I'm sure we didn't place any.
At the time I did it, I too was a Gunks climber with little offwidth ability (as Peter Haan, who tried to teach me some, can testify). The thing is totally secure, but a little hard to move up in. It isn't at all like some of the base of El Cap testpieces; its ripply and you can effectively palm your way up. It isn't the crux; there's a short, shallow bottle-shaped crack lower down that is harder (but also well-protected at the time with a fixed pin).
The one thing I'd mention about the Narrows (as told to me by Dick Williams, another Gunks climber who climbed the SS in the sixties), is to turn your head so you are looking out at the sky rather into the darkness, because it may be too narrow to turn your head for a few feet, and your disposition (as well as your glasses if you are like Dick and me) will be a lot less cloudy if you are looking out into fresh air.
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Mr_T
Trad climber
The 7th Pin Scar on Serentiy Crack
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Whoever just said this above is a genius!!!
Stack an approach shoe with your largest cam if you want more options.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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If you need to take a 9" or 12" you aren't ready
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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I remember finding an almost perfect replica of the Narrows just to the west of Swan Slab. However, I have since gone back to find it and failed. The dimensions match almost perfectly. Once one's knees are up, however, it is over; the upper chimney is capped.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Wear acopa scramblers and you don't need climbing shoes.
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p
Mountain climber
ny
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2009 - 07:42pm PT
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Thanks for replies. I left my overgrown cams in the tent. Took 4 and 5 camalot. U probably can do without 5 but I did not feel sorry I took it. Route was great. Lead all pitches but took over 10 hours.
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Oct 13, 2009 - 08:21pm PT
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Seems to be harder for tall guys, but look at it this way: where else will you ever have one-up on Dean Potter?
I can bump that Shizz When DR and I did it, It was a war for me I’m 6’3” great route and the view of El Cap. Is of no other in the Valley.
Ryan Frost The Narrows.
Sentinel is the Valley out post. Period.
Photos Frost.
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Rankin
climber
North Carolina
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Oct 13, 2009 - 08:55pm PT
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Great job p! God I love that route.
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Oct 13, 2009 - 08:58pm PT
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Here I have a Question for you all? Who has freed the Steak, Salathe dihedral that avoids the narrows? I think one of the Raleigh Boys Duane or his bother gave it a go if I recall, Nasty !! Has anyone? And when.?
Dogtown.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Oct 13, 2009 - 09:25pm PT
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congratulations p!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Oct 13, 2009 - 11:24pm PT
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Good job P,
10 hours is faster than average!
Zander
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