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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Sep 23, 2009 - 03:03am PT
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tru that
even if they get on it, they don't see it, which is why SPH will never be Yos Valley... for which I'm glad.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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Sep 23, 2009 - 10:58am PT
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That place scares the bejeezus out of me. The rock is crap and there are too many weirdos with odd names; Miwok, Dingus, Munge, Scuffy... sounds like a frikkin' biker gang. And then, there are the "sightings." No thanks. I'd rather stay in Yosemite National Park where the rock is bullet hard and there are nice rangers to keep the law and order.
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Josh Nash
Social climber
riverbank ca
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Sep 23, 2009 - 12:28pm PT
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don't go back, I know from experience! I am a way n00b climber and everything in the guide book is a.)way sandbagged b.) really hard to find and spread out( un marked dirt roads that lead to......?)c.)tons of munge and choss and finally d.) jerimiah johnson wannabees with assault rifles.
now really the 108 is a awsome drive. The climbing is nice because you usually can find an uncrowded place to climb. Being a n00b it's nice to work everything out and take time without the audience or the impatient party tailgating.
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cleo
Social climber
Berkeley, CA
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Sep 23, 2009 - 01:26pm PT
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sweet, I know, I want to spend more time up there!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Sep 25, 2009 - 12:34am PT
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"tons of munge"
I resemble that remark.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Sep 25, 2009 - 12:45am PT
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You guys lead and are afraid of Flat landers with green and black makeup stumbling through your camps...Go back to the gym, It's the guys you can't hear that you need to worry about and for the most part let's give the crowds the valley with the well designated Topos and maybe WB can Spray Paint Orange Fluorescent arrows on the base's of the important climbs, Like Nut cracker, Serenity, etc.. in case the CA's who forgot their History get off route.
There is some Great potential up there and I still can't beleive that I got such a gem of a first ascent (Multi pitch) on the South side 25+ years ago. "Go out and grovel through the bushes to get to your climb and knock off the loose pieces into the void, for it is only here that you shall really taste life." Quote from Mark "Henry David Thoreau" Miller.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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Sep 25, 2009 - 01:06am PT
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Which be this here long'in you speak of?
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Sep 25, 2009 - 01:14am PT
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Jerry I don't know the name of the cliff but it's the largest cleanest peice of multi pitch Granite on the South side around Chipmunk flats. The obvious Left facing dihedral halfway up the face, 3 wandering .7 to .8 approach pitches, then the corner hard .9 maybe .10a ( one fall was taken), of course in those days the leader backed off and gave it to me and with 80% fixed gear I fired it, A couple moderate .7ish pitches to the top and a Glissade back to the car ...What could be finer? "then a virgin 69'er in the morning." Sorry for the crude articulation there but I thought it rhymed.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Sep 25, 2009 - 01:17am PT
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actually at the crags by the USMCMWTC the route names are painted on. not quite orange.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Sep 25, 2009 - 01:18am PT
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did you do that with Greg? is that one yours?
up and right of chockstone chimney or left on the lower main face?
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Sep 25, 2009 - 01:20am PT
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The crags they climb on are great, I think the original fixed gear is from an ol railway if you fell on one of those bolts you'd tear your femoral artery out of your leg. But I do appreciate the capacious quantity of pins the Jarheads have donated to my rack in years past.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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Sep 25, 2009 - 01:41am PT
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I'll be up this weekend and will take a look.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Sep 25, 2009 - 02:02am PT
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Jerry take some pics and I'll draw the line. There aren't too many crags of multi pitch on the South side of the road at the summit area. There used to be a camp ground just to the west of the crag but it's over grown now.The small stream should be easy to cross this time of year. You can take good photos of the crag actually from the N side of the road if you scramble up this 20' 3rd class across the road from it. Does anyone know Sonora well enough to figure out where this is?
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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Sep 25, 2009 - 02:03am PT
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Pretty sure I know, and have a pic.
This look like it?
Deadmans Buttress
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Sep 25, 2009 - 02:07am PT
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Please post with the cliff names Jerry. On Juergen's and my descent, a bearded gnome like creature in painters pant's came up to us and was all excited that we climbed that feature. He said he'd put it in the next area guidebook and I've yet to see it. We did the route in the early 80's.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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Sep 25, 2009 - 02:10am PT
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Is that it?
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Sep 25, 2009 - 02:11am PT
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I 'm knott sure I need a slighlty more western exposure, The first 3 pitches are more like climbing the North buttress of Lone pine peak, then you step around to the West into the obvious dihedral. If it was we climbed the center but I don't remember looking at the good stuff to my west?
My initial thoughts of that photo are of a 3 fingered buttress and the climb I did was pretty much the main uninterrupted line on the crag.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Sep 25, 2009 - 02:21am PT
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here's a straight on shot from below...
bearded gnome? Grant doesn't look like a gnome. hahaha
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Sep 25, 2009 - 02:24am PT
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actually the 5.9 in the book comes from AAJ "Deadman Buttress (CA) 1988: 134"
the 5.9 in the most recent book is left of Stu's 11a route...
but it's called the 'arete route' maybe Brad can shed more light on it.
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