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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Sep 10, 2009 - 01:39am PT
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I know this guy that soloed it.
Juan
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Sep 10, 2009 - 01:59am PT
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Funnnnn,.
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Prod
Trad climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
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Sep 10, 2009 - 08:59am PT
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Slave drivers! 36 hours of going at it followed by a nap then 24 hours. Yuckfoo!!! Wish I was there though.
Prod.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Boise....
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Sep 10, 2009 - 09:16am PT
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As do I.
The Prow was my first Wall. Great piece of stone, that Column.
Awesome TR, fellas.
I'm with Prod, though. Slavedrivers!
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Esparza
Trad climber
Westminster, CA
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Sep 10, 2009 - 10:06am PT
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Bill, that is an excellent write up! Good work getting it done so quick like that! I had a blast up there.... Back on the Prow Ten Years After Ten Days After! haaaa.... Cheers everyone.
P.S. Those pictures are totally classic and capture how much fun and laughs we had up there.
Mike
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Sep 10, 2009 - 10:58am PT
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Cool TR guys.. I only know that the walk off is terrifying!
Good onya
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Sep 10, 2009 - 12:12pm PT
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Quick Beta Note:
It is possible to avoid the Haul Bag Eating Flake on P10 by linking 9 and most of 10 (to just below the gully, 45-50m). There is a good natural ledge there with a couple cracks to build a natural anchor in that is directly above Tapid Terrace. The haul line will naturally lay in the Haul Bag Eating Flake, but by rapping down 20' on low angle slab it is easily flipped out. Getting back up to your anchor does not require jugs (it's that low angle, I only needed my gri-gri to easily batman up).
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Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Thousand Oaks, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2009 - 02:18pm PT
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(Just can't help myself...)
Bump.
Edit: written by my beautiful wife while she was logged on as me.
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Jordan Ramey
Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Sep 10, 2009 - 03:58pm PT
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Entering the Valley to climb the Prow. I thought this pic looked neat.
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Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Thousand Oaks, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 10, 2009 - 05:27pm PT
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Jordan, thanks for posting that one. It is a great pic.
My wife decided to log on as me and make me look self-fulfilling with that bump.
Chris, thanks for adding this to the main Prow page.
Moof, I believe I read that in the beta section and tried to relay some of that info here. We didn't play it out that way but I could see that being much easier overall. Looking up from Tapir, I did notice a huge flake directly above that I could see causing problems as well. It would still be a lot easier to do a direct haul to there, climb the gully, then haul to the big ledge over the slabs rather than through the gully.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Sep 10, 2009 - 06:31pm PT
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Bill,
The second haul to the P10 anchors is still a bear, as the bags still tumble into the bowels of the gulley no matter what you do. At least if you do it my way (i.e. zone out and completely miss seeing the P9 anchors...) you only have one short brutal haul, and aren't already knackered from hauling through the Haul Bag Eating Flake.
I think my main beta is simply to let folks know that there is a nice ledge to belay from with a good spot to build an anchor if you choose to not stop at the P9 anchors. With a 70m rope it is probably doable to link from the gulley through to P11. (i.e. do P9, 10, and 11 in 2 pitches).
Good times.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Sep 10, 2009 - 06:53pm PT
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Check out the shoes
I am pretty sure I fixed the pin on second pitch. Its amazing it is still there.
As for fixed gear when I soloed it I found zip, sound like it needs a good cleaning. Having the longest reach in S. Cal I found the bolts to close together.
1987
Juan
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Esparza
Trad climber
Westminster, CA
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Sep 11, 2009 - 11:10am PT
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Juan, nice pic....
Jordan, that is the best night shot I have seen of El Cap! Nice work amigo!
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Sep 11, 2009 - 11:23am PT
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that bolt ladder looks like it was placed by midgets if you compare it to the rivet/bolt ladders I just found on Never Never Land. Horrid! 6-7 feet apart, i swear it. felt like 8!
good work dudes.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Sep 11, 2009 - 10:28pm PT
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Nice TR.
It is a cool route.
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TYeary
Social climber
Huaraz, Peru
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Sep 11, 2009 - 10:42pm PT
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Nice TR Bill. Way to go guys!
The Prow should be on eveyone's list
Tony
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Sep 11, 2009 - 11:22pm PT
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Great TR!!
The shot of El Cap at night is amazing.
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squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
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Sep 14, 2009 - 01:28am PT
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hey good report!
for my second wall i just did this route in a push finishing this morning.
really loved it especially the pitches 4 through 6.
i'm pretty sure the #4 HB offset that i cleaned is yours,
really weird as i went to clip it i thought i saw it move so i tapped it with the nut tool and it popped right out.
let me know if you want it back, i know how they're kinda pricy as i just bought some of the new DMM versions.
later
zack
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