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Gobee
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Double Cross, only two bolts? Charge up the battery! lol
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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This HAS to be a joke about Double Cross. No one would bolt a perfect crack. It would be chopped in minutes.
And contrary to popular myth, it's not the deadliest line in the park. Only one person died on it and that was years back.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2009 - 01:11pm PT
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The fact that soooo many people know, and are concerned about, Doublecross, an okay 5.8 climb, shows how overrated it is.
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Brian Hench
Trad climber
Laguna Beach, CA
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I think Double Cross is the most trolled route there is.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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"The fact that soooo many people know, and are concerned about, Doublecross, an okay 5.8 climb, shows how overrated it is. "
Which doesn't mean there should be any bolts on it.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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The Yosemite Gods will strike me dead for this but Royal Arches was a letdown. Wanders everywhere and my partner and I simul-climbed most of it. Nice to get some mileage in, but not all that interesting.
My partner was really experienced and knew the route well so no route finding drama, just climbing. And it wasn't all that great. The only really "oh yeah" moment was the very last pitch of that unprotected horizontal traverse, which only those who do the route to the very top get to do (if you rap the route, you don't get to do it. We were going for RA/Crest Jewel day).
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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I'd agree with RA. There's a couple of decent pitches on it. The best pitch is probably the chimney. lol
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Coppi
Trad climber
American Fork Utah
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I thought that the Bastille was kind of over rated, it may have been better back in the day but for me it was kind of a let down.
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jahil
Social climber
Does this rock make my ass look fat?
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After Six.
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Russ . what was it like climbing A5 for that many pitches?
"Five days with a gun at your head."
I think A5 is overrated.
Edit: not A5 climbers of course, they are just nuts...
Also Jim, Thanks for a really fun thread!
Ed
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apogee
climber
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Double Cross is the Lembert Dome of Joshua Tree.
Best left to the n00bs and tourons.
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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That first bolt on DC is too far up. It needs another one about halfway between there and the ground before I'll try it.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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The fact that soooo many people know, and are concerned about, Doublecross, an okay 5.8 climb, shows how overrated it is.
Yeah, its overrated at 5.8. Last time I did, seemed 5.7 to me...
Ha ha.
Its a great route.
Thank goodness for those bolts leading up to the crack on it.
White Punks is a great route too.
Its all personal preference I guess. I guess my "great route" bar is pretty low.
I've always liked what Kimbrough had to say about the NF of the Grand. "If you don't HAVE to climb it, then, why would you climb it?" Or some such.
Cheers,
-Brian in SLC
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Double Cross is 5.7 if you pre-hang the draws; otherwise it's 5.8!
:-)
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Moof
Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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DC Rack in order:
#9 WC hex, or #10 BD hex
#2.5 friend (#1 camalot is tippy, #2 doesn't go deep enough)
3x #2
2x #3
1x #3.5
0.75 or 1 near the top
3 draws for the anchor if lowering/TR'ing
Ignore the chalked up rotting hand traverse. Stand on the ledge at the start of the crack and slot the hex, bomber. Slot your fist (meat stopper) above it. High step and place the #2.5 as a solid second piece. Continue up through the bulge crux placing gear liberally (standing on the second bolt downgrades it from 5.7+ to 5.7-).
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apogee
climber
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Oh, yes, absolutely- pre-hang those DC draws and go for the pinkpoint! Siege tactics work well, too- fixed ropes whereever possible, and if all else fails, a little creative scarring ('comfortizing') is always an option.
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snowey
Trad climber
San Diego
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My vote goes for Chrimson Chrysalis in Red Rock. It has way too many bolts on it and the climbing was completely overrated. Also, the lines on that thing are ridiculous with people leaving their cars outside of the loop rode so that they can start hiking at 4AM.
Also, about the double cross bolting. If it is in fact bolted...instead of chopping it consider just removing the hanger. This has the advantage in that it does not scar the rock AND the few people who would actually go through the trouble of installing another hanger would just as likely drill another bolt if you chopped it. Also, this way you can start collecting some quality hangers for your other routes/bolt replacement initiatives.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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I'd agree that Royal Arches, Serenity Crack and the East Butt of Middle are pretty much ugly, wandering and over rated (quality wise).
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Redwreck
Social climber
Echo Parque, Los Angeles, CA
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I aided Double Cross with a fairly standard pin rack, some bongs, and a slung can of Crisco, it seemed to protect pretty well so I don't see what the big deal is.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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#1- PRINCE OF DARKNESS in Red Rock.
Cool, I guess, for a long crimp ladder.
DOWT is way mo betta.
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