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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Aug 13, 2009 - 08:25am PT
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Beautiful pictures of a beautiful rock climb.
Thanks for sharing the love.
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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Aug 13, 2009 - 08:57am PT
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Nice TR. How did ya like the run out pitch?
And ya sure Mrs. Mooch did not have a Pepsi hidden in that huge pack - what ya do make her carry everything?
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Les
Trad climber
Bahston
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Aug 13, 2009 - 08:57am PT
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mooch - it was great meeting you and the Drill Sargeant at the Dome! That was quite possibly the best climb I've ever done. The rock quality, exposure, positions, etc, were just amazing, and the hike, though long, is just spectacularly beautiful. Damn glad we got to spend time with you and the missus at that idyllic little campsite. Hope to post our pics soon as well. And thanks again for keepin' an eye out for us on our descent foray! ;-)
Les
for whoever asked - no bear activity whatsoever in the 3 days we were there.
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the pretender
Mountain climber
Quartz Hill, CA
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Aug 13, 2009 - 09:08am PT
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Nice TR Dave - made my morning. Thanks!
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2009 - 11:28am PT
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No bear encounters or signs of ursa around the campsite. I forgot to mention that we met Les and Scotty on the way out to Charlotte. They were out from the east coast to climb a few beautes in the Sierra, including this one. Great guys! I'll let Les discuss their mini-epic ;)
Mrs. Mooch took on Pitch #9.....cool as a cucumber she was. We both agreed it wasn't runout like Mac put on his topo (5.7R.....40' runout). In fact, she was able to find pro every 25 feet (a few discontinous cracks, a knob tie off and an eyebrow slot). One just needs to keep an eye out for the opportunites. Recommend small cams (smallest Alien, a few #0 Metolius cams and slingin' abilities).
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Aug 13, 2009 - 12:41pm PT
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Nice, Dave!!! I would like to get out for this one at some point.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Aug 13, 2009 - 12:58pm PT
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Very nice!
Looks beautiful out there, thanks for posting up!
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troutboy
Trad climber
Newark, DE
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Aug 13, 2009 - 01:01pm PT
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Really neat pics. Thanks.
TS
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Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Corona, Ca.
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Aug 13, 2009 - 02:01pm PT
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Nice report and pics, I gotta get there....
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Les
Trad climber
Bahston
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Aug 13, 2009 - 02:04pm PT
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mooch wrote: "I forgot to mention that we met Les and Scotty on the way out to Charlotte. They were out from the east coast to climb a few beautes in the Sierra, including this one. Great guys! I'll let Les discuss their mini-epic ;)"
haha! not much to report except that, unlike the mooch team, we didn't simul-climb the first 4 pitches, so we took considerably longer. On the descent, we got suckered to the right (I'd neglected to make a photocopy of the descent route from the Supertopo book, which CLEARLY outlines the descent route) by footprints and other signs of travel, and eventually came upon a rap sling. So rap we did. And then another rap sling. And then a another rap with a fixed rope, with many knots - isolating cut or frayed sections of rope - to pass, and ending with a rap biner on a bight at the end of the 400' or so of rope! One rap from that on our rope brought us to an island of nothing, which just wasn't anything I wanted to downclimb in the dark (my headlamp had gone dead!). So we built a rap anchor (1 nut w/biner, 1 red tricam girth-hitched to our leaver sling, and a quicklink), and made one more rap to safer downclimbing. Mooch and the Missus were very kind to have hiked up the descent trail a ways from our camp, to provide a directional beacon for us to follow! We were never in peril, and in fact, took the time to take in the incredible surroundings despite our inconvenient predicament -- Venus was rising the south, the full moon to the east, many, many stars were visible, and Charlito Dome was perfectly outlined against the ink-blue/black sky -- but their kindness was very much appreciated. We stumbled back to camp with them just after 10pm, to a nice blazing campfire. Thanks again, Dave & Deb, for the kindness! You guys rock.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 13, 2009 - 03:47pm PT
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Doo-hoo-ood.....
One sharp TR !!!
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bearbnz
Trad climber
East Side, California
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Aug 13, 2009 - 05:55pm PT
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Nice job Dave and Deb, that route is on my list, just moved it up a few notches.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Aug 13, 2009 - 06:18pm PT
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Really good TR Mooch! Loved the big quality pics!
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sbwyliedog
Trad climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Aug 13, 2009 - 08:50pm PT
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Mooch - Great pics! Somehow we lost the trail and did the manzanita bashing and our legs show it. hahhaha!
Les - We were out there on Saturday. We didn't use the high rap slings but when we ran across your anchor we ended up using it. Thanks! It was pretty much near dark at that point and it helped get us down quicker. I thought the South Face was a fantastic route and can see why it's a classic. The approach was a bit long for me, off the couch, but the climb made it totally worth it.
Good times!
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Aug 13, 2009 - 08:54pm PT
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Beautiful !!
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Aug 13, 2009 - 10:39pm PT
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Great TR, Looks fun!!!! Especially the wild waves in the granite at the bottom, while looking down, crazy Man....
Thor
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Les
Trad climber
Bahston
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Aug 13, 2009 - 11:00pm PT
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sbwyliedog - glad to be of service! just as we were damn glad to have come across that fixed rope!
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2009 - 09:30am PT
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sbwyliedog-
Think we saw you coming up there as we were headed out on Saturday. Glad you made it out there.
Les-
Nah, you guys would've done the same for sure! Don't forget our offer to you guys to allow us to play tour guide for a Shuteye outting next time you guys come out west.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Aug 14, 2009 - 09:35am PT
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Sweeeet!!!
Love Charlotte Dome!
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murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
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Aug 14, 2009 - 09:49am PT
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Whoa!
Props to the Missus and the Mister.
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