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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Dec 26, 2012 - 04:51am PT
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I scanned this from a Climbing calendar. Awesome location.
Ken
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Dec 26, 2012 - 08:28am PT
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Good story, Chief. Damn impressive Yosemite season. Didn't know you knew Tarbuster (had him over just the other night). Bummer about the hard-climbing-ending injury. Didn't know about that one either.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Dec 26, 2012 - 10:46am PT
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Chief, The elbow was a game changer? Have you tried everything suggested / possible to improve it and what are the symptoms? Point of interest for me right now with my own elbow issue.
Freestone looks all time !
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Dec 26, 2012 - 12:28pm PT
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Game changer for sure.
Went to New Zealand and Oz after Josh and on the rock at Arapiles eight weeks out from injury.
Took it real easy and finished with Kachoong and Orestes.
Dumb! Elbow was toast.
Pretty much quit climbing for a couple years, could barely run the counterweights at work.
Elbow doesn't bother me at all now, but I don't climb as much and avoid yarding on crimpers.
Climbing all those routes with John was most memorable and Freestone was a highpoint.
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Byran
climber
Yosemite Valley, CA
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Dec 26, 2012 - 10:09pm PT
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Anyone know what the rap anchors look like these days? I've been wanting to do the Center route for a couple years but have always had it in the back of my mind that the rap anchors are all going to be gnarly 1/4"ers out on a face with no way to back them up. You rappel the Right Side correct?
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Mar 29, 2013 - 12:53pm PT
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My girlfriend was coming to visit me in Yosemite for the first time, and I remember thinking what a drag it would be if, you know, I died soloing before she got there.
That really is an all-time quote because it could have been written by maybe half of us knuckleheads and would still be just as true.
JL
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Mar 29, 2013 - 02:32pm PT
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Freestone is a great route. Peter Croft had recommended it to me long ago & I climbed it in July of 1987 with Dan Hershman. I led the odd pitches which gave me the thin/facey/runout pitches which were kind of heads up. We didn't have any modern gear like offset cams which might be nice but we did have a 5.5" cam & a big-azz tube chock which I used in the wide pitch up high. The wide pitch was just some short fist crack to a short flare that you could lieback for about 20' until you could throw your leg in & rest. The chipped word "geek" at top was odd & unnecessary though.
For anybody considering this route, do it. It is one of the best free routes in Yosemite.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 29, 2013 - 04:54pm PT
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One of the best routes of this length I've ever done. At least on the level of Astroman.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Apr 26, 2014 - 12:56am PT
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Rosholt was a great guy . . . somehow he hooked up with me and my high school buds at the Cookie in '78 or '79. We ended up on Waverly to Butterballs . . . I flailed on my lead of WW and Mr. John gave me nothing but encouragement. I was fortunate to watch in awe as he hiked the BB business. He introduced us to the "blotter is my spotter" mantra.
Free Stone indeed!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 26, 2014 - 01:39am PT
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Killer stuff!
Great posts above Perry, very proud season in the valley! I had no idea that it was a blown elbow that forced u to ease off although im sure you are still a crusher when required. I'm gonna learn from your story & go do some push-ups.
What a beautiful line, glad that Warblers photo showed up.
Is this thing often done these days??
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Apr 26, 2014 - 11:56am PT
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K Dub's photo is sick!!!!
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 26, 2014 - 12:34pm PT
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Is this thing often done these days??
Very rarely ....
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 26, 2014 - 12:39pm PT
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Should have done it when I was younger....would be a bit of a stretch now.
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peter croft
climber
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Apr 26, 2014 - 12:49pm PT
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Nobody seems to be mentioning the most important part. You have to do it in the spring! At the base we had to strip and wring out our clothes on account of the spray and on the route I could feel the vibes of the waterfall through the stone - no lie! It was like an explosion that kept on giving. Seemed to me that if the wind shifted and the falls budged a bit in our direction we'd be atomized. Anyway, go there in the fall and it's just another very good rock climb but venture up there in spring flood and you feel the real power and glory of Yosemite.
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MattB
Trad climber
Tucson
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Apr 26, 2014 - 01:31pm PT
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definitely the falls are the best part... The incessent bombs and comets are
amazing. Hypnotic. And tantalizingly close when the water ran out half way up...
Walleye has a shot, almost certain me and friends from 02. Can you send me a copy,please?
Seemed like the "crux" 11c offwidth was one of the more inconsequential bits...
Otherwise amazingly varied face and cracks, equally mental and physical.
In 02 we were so happy for the recent fixe ring at each rappel...thanks ASCA!!!!!!
Also, anyone climb it without touching the pin scars? Definitely do-able
Pat O' flashing all pitches, below (if I recall, i'll ask)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 26, 2014 - 04:13pm PT
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Holy moly this has turned into quite the thread. Great shots Walleye, always love your photos man!
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 26, 2014 - 07:16pm PT
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Summit of Geek Towers
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Apr 26, 2014 - 07:20pm PT
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I got nuthin' for Freestone, but here's a trip report from getting halfway up Geek Tower - Center during the winter a few years back. It's a great location and great route. If it wasn't for a late start, short winter days, and being in a mood to avoid epics and headlamps, we should have got up just fine:
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/2010-02-Geek-Tower-Center-Route-partial/t11470n.html
Of course, this is in a totally easier league than Freestone.
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 26, 2014 - 07:20pm PT
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 26, 2014 - 07:37pm PT
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Yes nutjob, the center route is excellent also.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!