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the Fet
Supercaliyosemistic climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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"Pigs in Space". LOL
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Awesome photos both by you guys and Tom. That pic looking up at the Koreans ledge is stellar.
Cheers,
Doug
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Very Very cool. Thanks for bringin' it!
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BriGuy
Trad climber
SL,UT
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2009 - 08:15pm PT
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Thanks again Tom Evans!
Yeah, Fly or Die was mostly fixed. T-rex placed a couple of pieces near the beginning and mabey 1 or 2 in the traverse, that's it.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
crimping through the start of the Generator
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yeeee-haw!
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Sep 11, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
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motivating! All those Tom Evans shots are SO good! He gave you guys some major love.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Sep 11, 2009 - 10:30pm PT
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Nice Trip report.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Sep 11, 2009 - 10:51pm PT
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Dudes..
That "Great Rock, great photo" shot is badass!!! Love the striping on the rock.
Pitch 6 looks super thin.. Dude was stylin!
Nice send. Really great trip report guys.
You deserved that Summit Cobra
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Sep 12, 2009 - 12:57pm PT
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Sweet trip report & great pics!! You gotta love that stone up there. Leavitt & Child bagged a real quality FA on this one, to be sure.
I like the mottled rock like grey tiger stripes. Very asthetic & beautiful.
Thanks for sharing.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Nice to see this one dug up from the past!
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426
climber
☬
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ya, I missed this one first go, nicepix
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Apr 26, 2012 - 12:31pm PT
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bump for wall stoke!
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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Apr 26, 2012 - 05:38pm PT
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Fabulous work, I'm really, really jealous!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Aug 30, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
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Yeah, Fly or Die was mostly fixed.
Hmmm… that might change soon…
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Aug 30, 2012 - 04:21pm PT
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Not sure if I ever mentioned this, but when Brand (AKA the Incredible Bulk) and I did the second ascent, I led the Fly or Die pitch. Problem was, whoever cleaned the pitch on the FA pulled the wires on all the heads, so there were a bunch of dead heads, especially up in the business. It's soooo steep in there, and I remember being gripped, bouncing around trying to clean the heads, and cussing out Greg and Randy. Wish I'd had one of your butter knives Mark.....
Paul
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Aug 30, 2012 - 04:29pm PT
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Way impressed that you topped out with beer. I've never been able to do that.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Aug 30, 2012 - 05:57pm PT
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We're planning on both the leader and second climbing with a set of butterknives. I'm rather tired of "A4" routes that are really just clipping up a line of heads.
BUT
DON'T FORGET
everyone is brave on the internet and on the Bridge.
;-)
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IV
climber
tahoe
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Aug 30, 2012 - 06:19pm PT
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Is cleaning all the heads that great of an idea? Doesn't placing new heads cause more damage to the rock? Lost in America is hardly a clip up.... at least when we did it in a push it wasn't. Besides, the A4 pitch doesn't have many if any fixed heads...just good ole fashioned knife blades and beaks.
Cheers
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Aug 30, 2012 - 06:24pm PT
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If heads are such a bad idea they should have drilled bolts in the first place, or we should be drilling bolts now.
I've probably removed more heads, deadheads and heads with broken wires than anyone in the past 10 years and I can tell you that no, removing the heads with a butterknife, does not damage the rock anymore that the original placement of the head does.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Aug 30, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
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Well, placing and removing heads does far, far less damage to the rock than placing and removing pitons and no one mentions that when you go up on one of these routes that still require "nailing".
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