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ChirpioBartholomew
Boulder climber
Dixon
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Jul 30, 2009 - 06:09pm PT
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What's up Russ... You didn't like the slander pitch?
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Jul 30, 2009 - 06:11pm PT
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There used to be a glued on pitch under a bridge near me. It's gone now. Maybe I'll put i back up now so I have a place to work out 10 minutes away. Much better than hanging at the gym with a bunch of wankers.
Serious about the bolt hold on ML, Russ? Never knew.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 30, 2009 - 06:11pm PT
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we would glue on 100s of holds, and bolting them in would have been a bad scene with the public works maintaining the bridges
Call me clueless, I don't get it.
Drill, baby, drill!
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Jul 30, 2009 - 06:14pm PT
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Bluey... you are clueless....
The best climbing in SoCal was at one time under a freeway bridge. Great routes.... better than Valhalla.... or the Vampire. Holds secured by Bondo and or Epoxy. Full on lead routes that had overhanging sections. 5 Star!!!!
Some of the Tacoites even put up a few routes.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 30, 2009 - 06:19pm PT
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It was that long ago, meathead
That says it all. It FISH calls 'em 5*, I'll be there peeling of 'em!!!! (Hopefully not ripping bolts as I go)
Good times!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 30, 2009 - 06:22pm PT
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Now I'm thinkin'....
Epoxy takes hours to set. Did they go up and set a piece and back off for beers, or just solo the rig and hope it holds.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Jul 30, 2009 - 06:22pm PT
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I think CalTrans paid another Tacoite to remove all the bolts and holds.... If memory serves, CalTrans went bananas when they found out what was going on under their bridge.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Jul 30, 2009 - 06:31pm PT
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Blue, the glued on areas predate climbing gyms. Often put on huge cement culverts and the underpinnings of bridges. Some were quite extensive.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 30, 2009 - 06:32pm PT
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You put the glue on the hold, stick it the rock, tape it on, then come two days later, rip the tape off, and climb it
and then put up another set of holds
Well, you have a larger sack than I....that's ballsy, climbing on glue!
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Jul 30, 2009 - 06:33pm PT
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The best shape I ever got in was from traversing a glue up for 100's of feet a couple times a week.
The public work dudes definately don't like the drilled routes, or bolt on holds. I put up a few and had them errased. A real bummer with the bolted on hold routes as I was out some $, and it was a cool stealth location where you had to access it via a storm drain.
I've never glued on real rocks, but I can understand where it would be employed to keep key holds from pealing, and if done carefully could be undetectable. Drilled, well that's pretty damned obvious.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 30, 2009 - 06:34pm PT
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Are guys talking glue holds or glue BOLTS?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 30, 2009 - 06:35pm PT
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Which bridge are we talking about?
There was a lot of em BITD.
some serious slander in this thread, if not true.
ah, glue ups on concrete, brings me back to Hart Park. Heroin needles and drunks. Ah, the life!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 30, 2009 - 06:36pm PT
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Hey, is there any junk left in that needle????
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Jul 30, 2009 - 06:39pm PT
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Pick up rock off ground, apply epoxy, stick to wall. Repeat. Presto! A climb!
And then Gawd created gyms and woodies and climbers no longer snuck around under freeways trying to get a pump.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Jul 30, 2009 - 06:45pm PT
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Always wanted to do some FA's on this one.... look at them arches!!!! 5.9 for sure!!!111666
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 30, 2009 - 06:49pm PT
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bolt ladders on underpasses rule!
Dr. F, who are youz? Any of the OC bridges your handy work?
I used to get Rezi Weld from a hardware supplier just off Chapman ave. 30 bucks for a gallon or some really cheap price. we also had a hook up for the botts buttons epoxy that was in a nice package and easy to apply.
The other epoxy I heard used regularly was PC7.
Man I miss the 57.
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F10
Trad climber
e350
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Jul 30, 2009 - 06:51pm PT
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I just went and checked out the "glue on" problems under the I-15 to take a photo,
You know a picture is worth a 1000 words.
Well I found that some retards have painted all over the wall and the holds. It makes it a pretty slippery affair on the smaller ones.
I didn't feel like promoting someones graffiti, so no photo.
The BITD gym
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jul 30, 2009 - 06:54pm PT
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Man I miss the 57.
hahaha. dude, yr officially old.
palm springs traverse, the bowling ball twins traverse on the vons wall at hemet with that weird shoulderstand section, the 40 footer under the old hwy bridge above sedro woolley, gilje's glue job on the way to beaumont, etc. etc.
not to mention the bolt-on inside the dwarf house in green acres.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 30, 2009 - 07:04pm PT
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Green River lives!!!
hahahaa
no worries Dr. F
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