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Omot
Trad climber
The here and now
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Jul 28, 2009 - 01:12am PT
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Ditto! Great TR.
Tomo
Card-carrying member of the I love Mt. Conness club.
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TLloyd-Davies
Trad climber
Santa Clara, ca
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Jul 28, 2009 - 01:13am PT
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Awesome TR, really inspirational to get out there and see it for myself!
it was nice meeting you guys at the meeting as well! Have fun
-Tommy
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Guernica
climber
s x sw
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Jul 28, 2009 - 01:43am PT
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Good work indeed! Thanks for sharing.
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Jul 28, 2009 - 01:45am PT
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Super route, and a fine TR. Thanks.
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Andrew F
Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2009 - 01:46am PT
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Here's a video from the top: [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lB-GBPM-Nd8"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lB-GBPM-Nd8
[/url]
Thanks for all the positive comments. I have a feeling this will be one of those routes like Cathedral that you find yourself doing over and over again. We'll be back soon to do the West Ridge as everybody speaks highly of that route as well. The descent was definitely a bit tricky & I was glad that our light alpine rack included a handful of ibuprofen. It'd be hard to get truly lost (just aim downhill!) but it's easy to waste a whole bunch of time.
John- if your daughters are comfortable on exposed 3rd class, the only part you need to rope up for is the rappels & the final stretch to the summit (maybe 4-5 pitches if you pitched it all out?) Otherwise it would be a long day.
Nice meeting you Tommy- how did your trip to Tuolumne go?
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jul 28, 2009 - 01:48am PT
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Great TR, many props for gettin er done!
Pristine comes to mind.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Jul 28, 2009 - 02:23am PT
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Hey Apogee or others who can compare the North and West ridges:
How much more serious did the West ridge feel as a solo than the North? How would the West ridge stack up to Tenaya, or Cathedral? Much more exposed or harder? I know I know, go find out for myself, but any input appreciated.
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Jul 28, 2009 - 02:30am PT
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love that route! Great TR.
Thanks for the effort at posting that. I enjoyed that route with my wife and felt a tad sick to my stomach on the summit. She felt fine. typical...10 yr anniv. next month!
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Jul 28, 2009 - 02:50am PT
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west ridge is easier as you go up. Down low is the tough part and i think it can be made easier by moving left....anyone confirm that?
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cleo
Social climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jul 28, 2009 - 12:51pm PT
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yes, very fun, one of my favorite climbs!
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top step
Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
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Jul 30, 2009 - 03:18pm PT
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John-
Three people might make for a very long day if you rope up for much. But if you’re comfortable on 3rd and 4th class, you’ll be fine. Sounds like a great adventure! We got hung up (and spent too much time) at two spots in particular, on the climb.
The first was at the first tower. The topo says to go through the right most notch to the left of the first tower. It was easy getting through the notch, but then it puts you above some sketchy, loose-looking, 15 ft, 4th class down-climb. It just looked like loose blocks stacked end on end. We watched some people just traverse down to the left, below the notches and it looked very straightforward. (There was also a kind of obvious path going that way)
The second place was at the second tower rappel. When you’re looking down from the first set of rap anchors, you want to go way left, basically right next to the ridge. The obvious rappel is to go straight down the chimney below the slings, but this puts you about 40 feet to the right (looking down) of the second set of slings. The group in front of us belayed each other horizontally to the second anchor. We did some sketchy down climbing.
Hope you have a great trip! I already can’t wait to get back out there. Looking at doing the West Ridge in the next few weeks.
-Ellen
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burp
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Jul 30, 2009 - 03:38pm PT
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Nice!
Is that the buffalo meatloaf I see there? Tried it for the first time last summer ... can still taste it ... in a good way ... good stuff!
burp
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Andrew F
Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2009 - 03:41pm PT
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Buffalo meatloaf, lobster taquitos and chocolate cake with raspberry sauce. I've looked at that picture a good 10 times now and it still makes me hungry.
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apogee
climber
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Jul 30, 2009 - 03:43pm PT
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le bruce, the West Ridge is similar to the steeper sections of the North Ridge, just quite a bit longer. That said, it is very moderate climbing, and there are lots of variations to make it as exciting as you like. Staying right (along the edge where you can look down the SW face) provides the best value, with cleaner rock, and an airy feeling.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Jul 30, 2009 - 03:56pm PT
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After trudging up a good bit of the West Ridge approach with rope & gear & an out of shape partner, I'm starting to think soloing it is the way to go ..
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Andrew F
Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2009 - 03:58pm PT
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You basically climb it twice to do the W. Ridge car-to-car.. up to (100 ft below) the summit via E. Ridge then down to the base of the climb, climb the W. Ridge then down the E. Ridge back to the car. Sounds like a long day. We're gonna do it from the other side & stay overnight at Roosevelt Lake in a few weeks.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Jul 30, 2009 - 04:11pm PT
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Thanks, apogee.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Jul 30, 2009 - 06:08pm PT
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The overnight approach sounds like the way to go if bringing gear .. I might end up doing that too ..
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Jul 30, 2009 - 06:57pm PT
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Le Bruce, you could solo the West no prob. It is harder than the North and Tenaya, but easier than Cathedral.
As mentioned, tending left makes it mostly 4th but the rad exposure is right.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 30, 2009 - 07:41pm PT
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I love trip reports! That's a great route and, you're right, that approach by itself is a great and scenic appetizer. Thanks for taking me back.
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