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nutjob
climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jul 21, 2009 - 11:54am PT
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Zander, MAN ON FIRE.
Maybe the hike approach avoids doing North Dome Gully on-site in the dark, but that's half the adventure!
My crux vote for Crest Jewel is the end of link of P1/P2. I blew it 2-3 times for big sliders there, never fell again on the route. Maybe I was so adrenalized afterward I just hovered in the air above the higher cruxes. I seem to remember some little roof too where the pro wasn't reassuringly close below.
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Jul 21, 2009 - 12:04pm PT
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F I V E quarts?
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Jul 21, 2009 - 12:16pm PT
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Nice !! Musta been hot in the valley last weekend ..
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Capt. Buzzkill
Trad climber
Northridge, CA
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Jul 21, 2009 - 12:37pm PT
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I've done the route 3 different ways: 1)as described in the TR, 2) approach via Royal Arches and descend North Dome Gully, and 3) approach from Tioga Pass to the top of North Dome (like #1) and rappel the route. The third option requires knowledge of where the route summits but gets you to the base much cleaner and composed than bushwacking and in about the same time. Great route and I know I'll repeat it again.
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Jul 21, 2009 - 01:02pm PT
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Nice one, Zander. I sent you an email. I need to get on this route yet.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 21, 2009 - 01:12pm PT
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Looks so clean and peaceful up there!
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Jul 21, 2009 - 01:14pm PT
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I second the "man on fire" comment! Good on'ya Zander! Looking forward to hanging out soon.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jul 21, 2009 - 01:26pm PT
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AWESOME!!
Another place on the must go list.
Damn it's a long list................
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cowpoke
climber
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Jul 21, 2009 - 01:33pm PT
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yowza! I've always wanted to do this route, but your description of the crux(es) got my palms sweating. Slick slab scares me silly. thanks for the report!
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Zoo
climber
Fremont, CA
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Jul 21, 2009 - 01:47pm PT
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Zander,
Beautiful pics. It was my first real time on slab so I had a very scary great time on the trip. Hopefully, we can get out again this year.
Mike
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oldcragster
Gym climber
WA
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Jul 21, 2009 - 02:01pm PT
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thanks Zander for the effort. always meant to do it but never have. Did the south face rt.(.7) in mid-70's with Victor Marcus using Royal Arches as approach. a day to remember....being up so high above the Valley, the view of HD, and lots of mileage. beer at Degnan's Deli was sure tasty afterwards. thanks Vic for the memory. Gene
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L
climber
The Paleozoic rift of the Caradoc drift
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Jul 21, 2009 - 02:51pm PT
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Awesome TR, Zander!!! Beautiful photos, too.
I've been wanting to do this thing for 5 years now...guess it's time to get off the pot, eh? ;-)
Thanks for the inspiration.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jul 21, 2009 - 03:14pm PT
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Wow, Zander, you are on some kind of roll! I was in Yosemite West the morning of July 19, and I can attest that it was quite hot, so I can easily see the 5 quarts.
Thanks for a great report. Keep em coming!
John
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 21, 2009 - 03:22pm PT
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I keep telling ya L, it's not that far a drive (closer for you than SPH, even!) have pants, will travel.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Jul 21, 2009 - 03:34pm PT
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Cool TR.. Nice pics..
Kept trying to place the climb in the valley (in my mind...) I figure Washington Column area... good enough
Thanks
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L
climber
The Paleozoic rift of the Caradoc drift
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Jul 21, 2009 - 03:40pm PT
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Have pants will travel, Jaybro?
I can see them knickers ain't gonna last a season ;-). Let's talk. Zander's got me inspired to aspire...
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piquaclimber
Trad climber
Durango
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Jul 21, 2009 - 04:12pm PT
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Nice Zander!
Those photos make me want to head back the Valley. :)
Brad
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Jul 21, 2009 - 06:19pm PT
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"is there an easier way to get from the top of ND down to the base of CJ? this is the second story I've heard recently about horrendous bush waking."
You could rap the route (CJ) with 2 ropes.... provided you know where the top anchor is and no parties are coming up from below.
We did this to approach Nataraj last summer.
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curt wohlgemuth
Social climber
Bay Area, California
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Jul 21, 2009 - 07:15pm PT
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The last time I did CJ, we approached as per the OP. We left packs on top of ND. I remember the walk down to the base of the route was no problem: don't stay right next to the dome, rather go west into the forest then down.
Way easier than the heinous bushwhacking I remember from the _first_ time I did the route -- when we tried to skirt the edge of the dome. Yuck.
I'll second the quality, and if you're comfortable on Tuolumne faces, CJ is very straightforward.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Jul 21, 2009 - 07:16pm PT
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Did this back in early June, hiking from Porcupine Flat. We had much less trouble bushwhacking than many years ago when I did it the first time: Pick up a decent boot path along the drainage from the dome notch, and tend to stay on the right bank, decent path winds on down. When you get down to where you can see the slabby area start to drop off, head left across the stream and pick up another set of boot paths. There's a little brush between things, but nothing bad. When in doubt, head left rather than down, I suspect down leads to the start of the direct.
I thought the first crux on pitch 2 (we weren't hip to combining those) was a wake up call, but then once I had my slab head on everything else felt dandy. The other 5.10 pitch had more bolts so it felt quite comfortable.
The exciting bit of the day was on pitch 3 with my son leading. He headed out the dike, looked up at the line of bolts leading up, and declared that it looked hard for 5.8. Consulting the (supertopo) guide, it looked like you go to the end of the dike, so that's what he did. Way out to the end of the dike, like almost a full 60 meters, with no more pro. He found an upgraded anchor out there, but a shouted conversation determined that he was off route, so he gingerly reversed the dike with monster fall potential until he got back to the line of upward leading bolts. It did turn out to be only 5.8. I highly recommend that others not take this little detour.
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