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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2009 - 10:24am PT
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Don't try this at home, kids!
Our team demonstrates the dangers of self-portrait photography, at the p2 belay.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2009 - 10:30am PT
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Each pitch of Children's Crusade sees less traffic than the one below. Only a fraction of
teams climbing the stellar first pitch go on to do the second, and so forth.
Pitch 3 is the easiest on the route, but it filters out parties too. The MountainProject
description might be one reason:
"From the belay climb up and left with crack protection to a blank slab, make mandatory,
unprotected, slab moves to a two bolt anchor on the headwall 5.8."
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2009 - 10:32am PT
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jul 21, 2009 - 10:40am PT
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Oooo, nice thread. Thanks.
Keep those pics coming!
Zander
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2009 - 10:42am PT
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From the end of p3, the crux headwall looms above. It starts up the left-facing corners
near the center of this picture.
Three seemed like the right number.
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james Colborn
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Jul 21, 2009 - 02:46pm PT
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Chiloe, always sportin the coolest of photos, and climbing the cleanest of granite.
Dang... I have not been in NH for sometime. My family had a house in Madison BITD. I blame NH for my mountain lifestyle addiction. LIVE FREE IN THE MOUNTAINS OR DIE!
I went back maybe 10 yrs ago and climbed for a week. Awesome granite. Got any shots of Reccompense, or howbout Sreamin Yellow Zonkers. Those were some highlights of my visit.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2009 - 04:59pm PT
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James, I don't have any shots of Screaming Yellow Zonkers.
Cowpoke, Tarbuster and I took a photogenic jaunt up Recombeast a couple of years back:
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meclimber
Trad climber
Dover, NH
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Jul 21, 2009 - 05:17pm PT
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I love NH rock!
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cowpoke
climber
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Jul 22, 2009 - 08:07am PT
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Best of the White Mountain cliffs?
I've been thinking about this for the last few days. To force the issue, I tried answering a similar question: if I could only climb at one crag in the Whites for the rest of my life, then which would I choose? Still, no answer. I sure am glad I can keep the whole lot of 'em.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jul 22, 2009 - 08:39am PT
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Beautiful pictures gang!
Sadly, my only climbing up there was with an old friend at Rumney on a blast family trip through part of that beautiful state.
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tradchick
Trad climber
White Mountains
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Jul 22, 2009 - 09:23am PT
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Cowpoke: Cool shot of Whitehorse!
Yeah tough question and Whitehorse does have all sorts of climbing on great rock. Some unique situations too, like the move onto Loose Lips.
Cannon is my other favorite because of the alpine feel and being in Franconia notch.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2009 - 09:26am PT
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Cowpoke is probably wondering if I'll ever get to the good part.
The 4th pitch of Children's Crusade is the business, with a different character than the rest.
Eric racked the gear and energetically took off. The initial thin cracks look more straightforward
than they are. He led efficiently, but coming second I felt continually off-balance, pulling a
sequence of short laybacks past protection that all sounded hollow.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2009 - 09:32am PT
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About halfway up he encountered a sharp-edged roof that seemed to defy graceful solution.
Eric thrutched past it one way, I thrashed up another. The exposure here gets exciting,
and the roof's edge made me nervous.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2009 - 09:40am PT
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Above that roof you get a rest, then the 5.11 crux: sketchy stemming up the overhanging,
crackless corner, followed by a long reach to the arete where holds get larger but not large,
and you're starting to get tired. Eric almost got it on sight. But he slipped near the last
move and fell, ripping out one of those tiny "for aid use only" C3's. A few yards lower he
was caught by a knifeblade that Ed Webster might have welded into that seam 29 years ago.
Some climbers on a route below us, watching the show, yelled up "Is it all bolts up there?"
Eric laughed.
After resting on a stance, he reclimbed to his high point, fiddled in a ball-nut, and solved
the final moves to a belay at the crest of the wall.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2009 - 09:53am PT
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I was impressed watching his lead, becoming even moreso as I scratched past the overhang
and up the corner with an overhead belay. I could barely hang on to clean gear, and lunged
desperately to slap the arete.
It felt mighty good pulling over the crest, to say "I couldn't have led that!"
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jul 22, 2009 - 10:05am PT
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WooHoo!!
Don't worry Eric, I've had MANY almost got it on the first try cruxs' myself! Many many many.........
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 22, 2009 - 10:24am PT
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Beautiful, photogenic rock on that fourth pitch!
Good job Eric & Chiloe !!!
(Is it all bolts up there?... heh,heh)
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cowpoke
climber
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Jul 22, 2009 - 10:32am PT
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Cool shot of Whitehorse!
Thanks, tradchick! It's tough to get a shot in which you can't see the hotel and homes (in fact, you can see a roof peaking through on that pic).
Don't worry Eric, I've had MANY almost got it on the first try cruxs' myself! Many many many.........
We were having so much fun (and the neural juices were flowing after that fall) that I wasn't too disappointed, at least in the moment. But, now, I gotta go all the way back up there for the redpoint and the first pitch gives me fits.
Cowpoke is probably wondering if I'll ever get to the good part.
No doubt, your dramatic posting style had me wondering whether I was going to get the onsight...but, no. Shoot!
But, the story doesn't end there, you tease.
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cowpoke
climber
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Jul 22, 2009 - 10:44am PT
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Beautiful, photogenic rock on that fourth pitch!
Roy, I gotta go back up there...if you'd lead that first pitch (again), it'd be big help!
After asking about the bolts, our onlookers gave a nice encouraging hoot and holler when I pulled through the lip and gasped with relief.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2009 - 11:08am PT
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After asking about the bolts, our onlookers gave a nice encouraging hoot and holler when
I pulled through the lip and gasped with relief.
Our onlookers also deserve props for not cursing us when a stray quickdraw sailed past them
at high speed. At the base they retrieved it, and left the draw on a windshield wiper of my car.
The biners from that draw I've marked with white tape, they are dog-leash biners now!
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