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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
way, WAY out there....(OMG)
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Jul 22, 2009 - 05:02pm PT
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Ya gotta warn the Flatlanders, man.
Otherwise their bodies will be EveryWhere, cloggin' up everything.
It's the good neighbor approach.Plus, I find the drive from Three Rivers to Giant Forest particularly harrowing, & I'm a professional!
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Jul 22, 2009 - 05:05pm PT
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South Face is a classic route. However, the South Cracks (just right of South face) is the far better route. Links up with the South Face three pitches from the bottom. The Rim Of The World Climbing club folks were up there over a week ago (lead by Pat Brennan and Kenn Kenaga). Ken went over and did 'Thin Line', while Pat and crew went over to Little Baldy and did 'Hairline' and 'Welcome To Little Baldy'.
John Barbella enjoying the first pitch of South Cracks (5.9)
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jul 23, 2009 - 01:10pm PT
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The Neat Wall, now thats a blast from the past. Fun after work spot. Also good in the morning on a hot day.
I bet that 30+' off width roof at the bottom right side has still never been done.
Jeff
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Jul 23, 2009 - 01:28pm PT
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Wow Jeff! Did you work at the cafeteria or for Delaware? I remember Dave Horn (was lead seasonal tool for Sequoia, now the big cheese is The Ditch) showing me that place in 1993.
Speaking of excellent 'out of the way' formations in SEKI, Santa Cruz Dome (high up on the north side of Tokapah Valley) is a schaaaahweet 3 pitch dome. Tough to get to but worth it. I believe Matt (crazyhorse) and Brutus put up a route over there about 4 or 5 years ago.
Not to rob the thread but has anyone else done 'The Timex Route' on The Watchtower? Did it back in 1996.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Jul 23, 2009 - 01:32pm PT
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mooch...that's actually what we did. It was a little too hot on the first pitch to be fun, but after that it was good.
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Jul 23, 2009 - 01:33pm PT
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Mel-
Santa Cruz Dome? The Watchtower?
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Jul 23, 2009 - 01:37pm PT
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30ft roof? undone? OW? Jaybro.....calling Jaybro..... there is gas in the car.
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snaps10
Mountain climber
Visalia, CA
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Jul 23, 2009 - 01:39pm PT
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The Timex is my goal climb of the year. Gotta love the guidebooks description. Sling vegetation and use sparse vegetation for holds. LOL.
I hear it's very dirty (gotta clean every gear placement), and something that even if you say you'll never come back, you'll be glad you did it.
I've eyed that dome North of Tokopah a couple times. The color of the rock is absolutely beautiful.
Gotta love the complimentary photographers/videographers you find at Moro Rock.
A couple weeks ago on "Pennies on the Patio", taken by a touron and emailed to me.I'm pretty sure I'm a star of some Japanese videos now too.
Where's Neat Wall?
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Jul 23, 2009 - 01:44pm PT
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Shhh... Don't be telling people there's more rock in Cali than Yos.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jul 23, 2009 - 02:13pm PT
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mooch-
I did six summers at Crystal Cave, one summer in Lodgepole campground and five winters at Pear Lake. I know Dave well. We organized the first Moro Rock clean up. He is no longer in Yos.
Snaps10-
mooch already gave the location away above. There might still be a topo in a binder for new climbing routes at the visitor center. I put a bunch of stuff in there.
I did the Timex route years ago, I don't remember it being to bad. Also did a ton of stuff on both sides of the canyon. I remember finding some bolted slab on the south side of the canyon with homemade bolt hangers you could bend with your hand, scarry!
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ec
climber
ca
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Jul 23, 2009 - 02:39pm PT
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Timex looked good...
'attempted a second ascent with Laeger's topo (pre-guidebook)...and had to bail. The topo had a gross error in it that got us into deep sh#t.
Laeger insisted (you know, he's always right) it was correct, only to admit he f*ck-up months later.
Never went back...yet.
 ec
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jul 23, 2009 - 02:46pm PT
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True, Melissa, but we're in the middle of a heat wave, even by our standards. 100 would be a cooler than a normal day (of course, in fairness, our average high in July is 101). It was 112 here last Sunday.
From Bakersfield, the Needles or Dome Rock makes more sense just because of the driving time, but Buck Rock is wonderful. Mowing the Yawn (the route pictured) is amazing.
Enjoy.
John
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Radish
Trad climber
Seki, California
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Jul 24, 2009 - 11:05am PT
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I know it looks like we're getting arrested here, but it was actually taken at the Moro Rock cleanup Tork was talking about, back in 98 I think. I'm barefoot and Dave Horn and Scott Wanneck are also in the shot. We rapped down to the bottom of the west face and found all kinds of stuff like len's caps, one shoe, a golf club, part of a wheel chair, trash cans, old Burgie beer cans, a guys head.........................................
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jul 24, 2009 - 07:59pm PT
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Radish any more pics from that clean up.
Yea, that was kinda grim for whomever found the bits of Jeds head. I remember climbing on Moro not to long after Jed went over, found bits of skull with skin and hair hanging off. Stuffed it deep into a crack so my partner/wife wouldn't see it and freak.
Jeff
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Radish
Trad climber
Seki, California
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Jul 24, 2009 - 08:23pm PT
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Tork, I do have more pics from down at the bottom of the west face. But, I don't have a slide scanner yet. I hear Walmart has a decent one?? I projected this one on the wall and took a digital pic. Pictures of the Helicopter pick up and the folks working in general. I remember you from those days. I work in the Fire Dept at Ash Mountain right now so we're right in the thick of it............
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ec
climber
ca
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Jul 24, 2009 - 08:43pm PT
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Rene'
'tell me which copies you would like; remember I digitized the slide show that included that and a few of your other shots. I don't have many of the clean-up though.
ec
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Jan 15, 2013 - 01:17am PT
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ec
climber
ca
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Jan 15, 2013 - 01:43am PT
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That be a mighty pluton!
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jan 15, 2013 - 02:27am PT
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Great picture of it! All covered in snow now though...
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Apr 21, 2017 - 01:25pm PT
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Great news! Here's a recent email from the very friendly new biologist in SEKI:
"Hi Daniel,
Thanks for reminding me about this. I had meant to make the change before the season got started and it slipped my mind. The website has been updated and now states:
"the closed routes include The Couch Trip, Full Metal Jacket, and all routes between them."
The South Face route is now open to climbing. We'll monitor the situation and if we need to make adjustments as we go, the website will be updated to reflect any changes."
This means that for the closure this year only 6 of 84 routes on Moro are closed, and the classic south face remains open.
It's great to see someone working with climbers to find a reasonable solution. PLEASE respect the closure so the relationship stays positive.
Woot?
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