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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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Jul 24, 2009 - 01:06am PT
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Clay, - "But I'm much more into function over form and pulling the trigger of a camalot is much, much more satisfyingly smooth. These guys are stiff and clunky in comparison. "
I played will all of the cams and noticed quite a bit of difference in how well they pulled. It was like Goldilocks, some stiff, some soft, some just right. I chatted with Steve about this difference. He noted that these were all prototypes (which was evident as the trigger bar on one cam was a straight bar) and that DMM has not quite nailed down the spring tension. As such, I expect the spring issue to be refined.
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sowr
Trad climber
CA
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Aug 18, 2009 - 08:07pm PT
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DMM use the hot forging process a lot! There are advantages to hot forging over machining, grain structure flows with the form when the metal is forged, not so when machined from stock (as with Camalots).
I must confess, I have five Camalots in my closet with broken trigger wires - this, and the fact that they have been through quite a few major redesigns over the years has turned me off Camalots. My Friends just keep on going...
Personally, and also speaking professionally (I've been a mechanical engineer for 34 years and work for NASA) DMM design and quality are second to none.
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truclimber
Trad climber
WA
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Aug 18, 2009 - 10:01pm PT
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I like it. As patriotic as the next american. The euros have just been doing things a little longer. Exp points to them.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Aug 18, 2009 - 10:42pm PT
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I love DMM, the BMW of climbing hardware, but got side tracked at OR and didn't see the Camalikes.
Time will tell, but my money is on the free market system.
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sowr
Trad climber
CA
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Aug 19, 2009 - 02:58pm PT
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Truclimber, I have a confession to make - I'm a dual citizen; US and UK, so it's gear from Llanberis and SUV from Solihull.
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kiwi
Trad climber
Olympia, WA
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Aug 28, 2009 - 10:24pm PT
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to expensive, but I like how they match the C4's in color, i.e. the #2 is yellow, the # 1 is red the 3 is blue the 4 is grey. they are complete knockoffs.
DMM is overrated, the revolver is a interesting design but hard as hell to clip and too expensive.
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NutellaJunkie
Trad climber
Adirondacks, NY
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Aug 28, 2009 - 11:29pm PT
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Highest quality? hmmm..... and 75 bucks it ridiculous dude! I'll stick with BD and Metolius ;)
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reddirt
climber
Elevation 285 ft
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Aug 29, 2009 - 12:34am PT
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if it turns out to be a camalotkiller (or at least camalotmarketbiter), it means karma's coming around back at them.
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ShibbyShane
Trad climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Nov 30, 2009 - 04:28pm PT
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So when are these due out on the market? Or at least, when can we be expecting reviews from people who've actually used them on rock?
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Jun 12, 2010 - 04:51pm PT
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I bought myself a pack of DMM Dragons recently.
Nice design, sleek finish and smooth operation. Here passively tested (I didn't fall) on a crag in Gothenborg, Sweden.
Michael
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Jun 13, 2010 - 10:20am PT
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Nice thread revival Michael! It's always a great thing to see gear in action, and I'd climb on your Dragons with you all day long. LOL! Can you tell us how you like the finished Dragons single stem/no thumbloop like the Camalot's have?
BTW, for myself, I love DMM product. Love it all. (and the Wild country product that DMM had made, like the great Wild Country Helium carabiners), but I don't see this cam design as doing anything extra for me. In fact, I prefer the BD solution of using a larger nylon sling on a thumbloop. How often will any of us ever replace that thin sling DMM uses? It's going to get old and weak fast relative to the phat nylon BD uses.
I like Camalots and have plenty, but I think that I'd rather have an extra cam or 2 on my rack of Wired Bliss and Metolius cams for the same weight, and less cost. Despite being a total gear whore, I won't be buying the Dragons.
http://www.wiredblissusa.com/
Here's the #2 Wired Bliss last week:
FA of Bewitched
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Jun 13, 2010 - 03:49pm PT
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Well-well, being a eurocragger I never really had much American gear. So my comparison goes toward vintage WC Friends. Not the rigid stem - but almost. So a change was due, and I am happy!
Also, I am sorry to say that I'm not any longer interested in the intricate details of my gear. Cam angles, max strength, I couldn't care. But I like the way DMM has put the double sling through two holes, with a good thumb-platform in between.
They work, they look nice, and they are cheaper over here than BD.
Couchmaster: Hey, FA, nice one! Bewitched! Just slightly bewildered, you've already put the belay bolts in?
But sure, come over, and we'll take a tour of west coast Sweden. Tons of granite climbing! Should have met with Chiloe of ST fame last weekend if it wasn't for too much work and family obligations.
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