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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Rich
We need more of your stories. Just great. No, better than
great. And I'm sure someone has some equally thrilling story
about what you did in another situation.
Thanks for the writing.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Thrilling vignette Richie. Thanks. And why ever would you post over at rec.climbing; those people haven't even discovered fire yet. But you really should give a nod to Patey. "A Short Walk with etc"
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2009 - 05:48pm PT
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Peter, I thought the allusion to Tom Patey's A Short Walk with Whillans would be common knowledge among the climbing literati of Supertopo (an assumption you adeptly confirm) and so would require no more attribution.
But you are right: for the record, the title is a play on
A Short Walk with Whillans
in
One Man's Mountains
Tom Patey
The currently available edition,
Mountaineers Books (1997)
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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". . . I thought the allusion to Tom Patey's A Short Walk with Whillans would be common knowledge among the climbing literati of Supertopo . . .."
hehe.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Different mountains (Colorado's San Juan) in a similar mood.
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scuffy b
climber
Sinatra to Singapore
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Outstanding, Rich.
Thanks so much.
This brings to mind Mr. McCarthy's closing lines in his account
of Lotus Flower Tower.
I wonder how bad that really was?
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
the base of the Shawangunk Ridge
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I recently climbed Yellow Belly in the Gunks which was one of the earlier 5.8s in the area, put up by McCarthy...I have never considered myself much more than mediocre skill/strengthwise, but it took all I could muster of both to get up that route.
I would hate to see what he would rate a 12 or 13...
respect.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Not very bad at all, beyond Jim's hammock episode! LOL A couple of my favorite Frost shots from The Lotus Flower climb.
Looking up at Jim and Sandy Bill traveling light.
The team after feasting on the Lotus Flowers.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Scary stuff, and some climbers who really worked together for their common good.
I've done some McCarthy routes in the Bugaboos, and always had good adventures.
I've also had similar experiences to his and Rich's on Wolf's Head, and in the Bugaboos. Terrifying.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Perhaps some of you "oldies but goodies" out there can post up on the the Climbers Camp in the Tetons in the early 60s and the Cult of the Vulgarians. McCarthy, Kraft, Suhl and other wild characters.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Perfect cracks and lots of bumps...for your feet!
Guido- were you in the Tetons back in those days?
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Bump to a great mountain storm story!
My best hail story occurred back in the early 1980's at the aptly named "Lightning Dome" on Idaho's S. Fork Clearwater River.
On our second try at finishing a new route: we had made our way up two leads to a previous high point. Three of us were watching our "rope rocket" work diagonally up a very blank friction face.
I always was very nervous about thunderstorms, and I had been anxiously watching a small dark thundercloud, just down-canyon. To my relief, it turned and headed away from us.
After a few minutes I uttered the fateful words: “at least we don’t have to worry about a storm for a while.”
There was a 10 second pause: then the first hailstones started bouncing down the rock------from a cloudless sky. Strong winds were blowing the hail from a storm north of us.
Our “rope rocket” froze in place for a long few seconds on 5.10 friction, then washed off, and fell down and over a small roof.
It kept hailing as we lowered him to a ledge, put on rain gear and rappelled off. Of course the storm quit as soon as we were off the route.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 16, 2009 - 01:56pm PT
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Wind River Bump!
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Aug 16, 2009 - 11:51pm PT
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Rich Goldstone and Jim McCarthy,
two people I most respect in this world
of rock climbers. You guys have always
been the example, truly great spirits.
Pat
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 19, 2010 - 01:55pm PT
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Alpine Climbing Bump!
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tonesfrommars
Trad climber
California
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Sep 19, 2010 - 02:36pm PT
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wet batman bump
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Feb 22, 2011 - 02:39pm PT
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Wow, epic story! Missed it the first time around.
Talk about touching the void. You guys were 3/4 of the way into it, and fighting for your lives to keep from becoming statistics.
Wild.
Glad you survived to tell the tale.
GO
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