Galibier Super Guides

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donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Jun 23, 2009 - 07:10pm PT

Super Guides totally sucked for me. They were about the only thing available and had a small toe box that nearly did me in. In mountain boots fit is EVERYTHING!

can't say

Social climber

Pasadena CA

Jun 23, 2009 - 08:05pm PT

My first pair of climbing shoes were SGs. I got them as a high school graduation present and took them to Germany with me when I went in the army and used them in the local klettergardens. This was in 73 and it seemed all the Germans used some sort of mtn boot at their local crags. I also picked up a pair of the Super Pros, the one's with the PVC toecaps. I think I still have both pair somewhere

Ghost

climber

A long way from where I started

Jun 23, 2009 - 08:13pm PT

I'm not sure whether this says more about Squamish rock, about Super Guides, or about my friend John, but one day I belayed him as he led a horrifically run-out 10b slab in SGs. No pro, so groundfall potentiall the whole way. Just those hard vibram soles edging on tiny crystals.

Sick.

Dolomite

climber

Anchorage

Jun 23, 2009 - 08:13pm PT

What Donini said. I got a good fit in a pair of Lowa Civettas that I owned for 35 years before I tossed them. I once owned a pair of Makalus that hurt my feet so bad I deliberately left them in Huaraz because I knew if I brought em back, being a cheap s.o.b. I'd bs myself into wearing them again.

Watusi

Social climber

Newport, OR

Jun 24, 2009 - 01:54am PT

Couldn't fit in Galibier, (except my first rock shoes Calcaires.) So my first ice boots were Meindl Glockners.

hobo_dan

Social climber

Minnesota

Jun 24, 2009 - 04:28pm PT

I had a pair of SuperPro's
The last time I wore them we walked out of Titcomb Basin to the Parking lot in a day. The weather went bad so the idea was we would get out and have a pizza that night
Too far and too exhausted to eat anything after that walk!
BUT I was amazed at how far you could travel just staggering one foot in front of the other- just like Frankie used to do in the movies

johntp

Trad climber

socal

Jun 24, 2009 - 10:31pm PT

Good boots. Did a lot of my first ice routes with those and SMC rigids. Good times.

Mar'

Trad climber

Fanta Se

Jun 25, 2009 - 12:06am PT

Oooh— Superpros! I wasn't a god then, but now that I'm a ghost €∫;D… I saw real superpros for $160 at Robbin's store in the olden days! I did get a set of the Arlberg-things for skiing there. You could strap them on to yer Galibier dbl Makalus, I loved those too. Purdiest boots when they was all frosty on the outside and summer on the inside!

I always shoe-gooed the Superguide toes and wore out two pair. Even created fiberglass laminate shanks when the steels cracked and had Rick Wheeler re-assemble them.

I use Scarpa Freneys now— the earlier blue-suede version. Thats the closest I've gotten to superpros 'cause those have a rubber toe-cap and they are the nimblest little ice-boot I've ever used.

When we'd hike in to the Palisades we'd wear flip-flops and pack the SGs. Remember the dope Sacs Millets w/ the trick zippered bottom part for boots? I didn't have one but it seemed like a cool idea.

When we hiked in to the Palisades in the Fall we'd wear flip-flops and carry the SGS!!

Once I skied down the Devil's Slide Trail down to Humber Park wearing SGs and the little Salewa 120 glacier skis. I almost ruined my ankle when I got hung up on some rocks sticking out of the icy rutted luge-run near the bottom.

I had to tape it for six months and couldn't stand on the outside of my foot for two years. That was when I bought my first pair of real plastic Dynafit Tourlite rando-boots. Now when I ski in single ice-boots I tele-turn (with fixed heels).

It's no problem linking turns in all kinds of conditions in those supple little ice-boots— it's just a matter of leaning back and forth to find the sweet-spot for exactly what I happen to be turning in as conditions change. Yep …fixed-heel tele!

Risk

Mountain climber

Olympia, WA

Jun 25, 2009 - 01:11am PT

My second pair of Super Guides. I had a pair in high school, but sold them because I couldn’t hike well in them – too stiff. I switched out to a pair of Vercours (another great boot). Then in 1980, I bought another pair at the 5th Season in Mt Shasta on sale, and they worked beautifully for climbing the mountain, which I did twice that summer while working for the Forest Service nearby. After that summer, the boots sat around and rarely got used. I kept them “just in case,” and I just loved to have them, even if they rarely got used. They were beautiful and smelled great. I would go though at least one pair of heavy hiking boots a season, sometimes two, working backcountry in Yosemite from 1982 on, but my barely-used Super Guides just took up space in my storage unit, wherever that was.

Then in 1987 while a grad student at Chico, I needed cash and decided to sell some gear, and the Super Guides got put up for sale along with a bunch of other nearly worn out stuff. I put up a 5x7 card up at student union, and calls came in for various stuff, including an inquiry about the Super Guides. The guy wanting the Super Guides said he was looking for some hiking boots, and I informed him that these boots were not a good choice for hiking. He decided to come over anyway and see them. Well, he tried them on and tromped around in my front yard before taking them off and telling me he didn’t have any money. I again reminded him that these were not hiking boots anyway, but meant for snow and ice. Hiking in them would hurt your feet and nearly cripple you after a few miles. He went on his way.

A week or so passed and he called again. Wanted to come over and talk about the Super Guides. By this time, I was getting sick of this gear dude wanting to bug me about boots he didn’t need and shouldn’t buy, but money talks, so I figured he would simply come over and buy them.

He shows up and tries to trade me a bunch of junk gear I didn’t need for the boots! And of course he wanted to look at them again, try them on and so forth. Talk about a tire kicker! I shooed him off after rejecting his offer – I needed cash, not a Boy Scout pack and a pup tent!

Again, another call came in from the “gear dude.” this time he had the $125 I was asking for the Super Guides in near perfect condition. He showed up and I kept it short, but gave him the warning about their use one more time – “these are not for hiking and backpacking, they’ll kill your feet.” At least I got my money and the guy was permanently on his way, so I thought.

That summer, I resumed my coveted job with Yosemite Backcountry, and was headed to the Mt. Lyell area for a week of clean up and “patrol.” I had learned that the best way to make time heading up Lyell Canyon was to hike the opposite side of the river than the trail. That way, all you had to do is wave at the hikers rather than stop and chat for 20 minutes a pop. If there were an emergency, they would let you know. So instead of 5 or 6 hours of chitchatting with all the hikers on the PCT/JMT, I was nearly all the way to Kuna Creek area in about 3 hours. I crossed where some pack outfit was ruining the meadow with their stock, gave them a talk, and proceeded along.

As soon as I hit the trail, everyone I ran into told me of a poor soul up ahead unable to walk due to his boots, blisters or something horrible. I ran into 3 or 4 parties with the same sad report when I came upon the victim: the gear geek who bought my Super Guides! This is a true story. I flat out told him that he had been aptly warned not to use the boots for hiking or they would render his feet useless after a few miles, and here he was. Now temporarily crippled from the boots and his stupidity, I informed him of his options: either wait out the pain right there for a few days and hike out; or, I could radio in an order for a Curry packer to come pick him up – at his expense. This was not an emergency, and he was on his own. Despite being flat out pathetic, the guy was truly embarrassed. He declined the offer to call for a Curry packer, and I went on my way.

I’ve told this story numerous times, but never had a reason to write it down until now. . . .

hobo_dan

Social climber

Minnesota

Jun 25, 2009 - 10:54pm PT

The day I bought the Super Pro's I wanted to start breaking them in so I wore them to my night school Drafting class (a classic loser move!). This guy starts up a conversation and asks if i climb- I forgot what I said but HE was definitely a CLIMBER!- He had just done Mt. Huntington and the Roosters Comb that year. I think his name was Dave or Richard Something- used to live in Seattle and was back home in Minneapolis trying to get it together- Year was about 1978-79.

TYeary

climber

Jun 26, 2009 - 12:21am PT

Got a pair in '72 or '73. Still use them ocasionally. They've been to the Bugs, Sierra, Mexican Volcanos, and the Cascades. Like old friends. These days they make a trip up Baldy now and then. Still feel great.

Ray-J

Social climber

cali

Jun 26, 2009 - 01:13am PT

I destroyed 2 pairs...horrendous boots. :)

Ghost

climber

A long way from where I started

Jun 26, 2009 - 01:25am PT

Jesse, that is a flat out perfect story.

Bertie

Trad climber

Sussex, England

Mar 27, 2010 - 06:57am PT

I have pair of Galibier super guide size 43 and Super Pro size 42 (which have only been worn once) if anyone out there is interested in buying. Unfortunately they no longer fit me.
I can send photos or details if anyone interested.
I even have the original receipts when I brought them in the early 80s!!
It would be nice to get them to a good home where they can be used.
Thanks
Bertie

Norwegian

Trad climber

Placerville, California

Mar 27, 2010 - 08:17am PT

i scored a pair years ago from the used board at rei.
they came with some relic strap ons. (crampons) 75 bucks.
i cant seem to wear them down.

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Mar 27, 2010 - 10:39am PT

Pat, back in the day the Super Guides were the best boot available. I remember getting Super Guide toe syndrome. The cramped French Toe Box didn't accommodate American feet.

Rick A

climber

Boulder, Colorado

Mar 27, 2010 - 10:42am PT

Too funny, Todd.
Yep, you put those babies on and you had instant Alpine cred.
Rick

Chiloe

Trad climber

Lee, NH

Mar 27, 2010 - 10:48am PT

My Peutereys never fit worth a damn but due to fashion pressure I was sure they were the right thing for the mountains.
Here with equally stylish socks on the Ellingwood in 1971. Note the over-the-shoulder slung hex.