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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jun 23, 2009 - 01:26pm PT
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Yes, it's very unlikely the short Mammut sling would ever engage with the rope. Sort of have to see the setup first hand. I have sometimes thought about adding a prusik knot to the mix for brief stretches as a backup but have never gotten around to testing it. Again, the knot thing is personal preference, to me it presents a real lousy cost/benefit ratio, but that's just me.
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Double D
climber
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Jun 23, 2009 - 03:16pm PT
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I use long pursik knots for routes that don't have bottom belays and to prevent rope drag, or rather snaking down the system and then drag up high on a pitch. Just make sure the pursik is plenty long so you don't end up short-roping yourself.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona, Spain
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2009 - 04:47am PT
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I gave the Eddy a try yesterday, and I don't like the vibe I get from it. If something were to press against the cam and prevent it from coming out, the device would not lock. Maybe that's a low probability scenario, but I don't think it can be ruled out. I'll stick with the clove hitch, I think.
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jbar
Social climber
urasymptote
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Jun 29, 2009 - 04:53am PT
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DD - I started out using prusik knots to see if I could get the groove of solo. If I fixed the pitch and top rope soloed it I always had a bad feeling about dragging the webbing up the rope over and over. I switched to a ushba and now to a solo aid. Not sure how I like the solo aid yet.
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phillygoat
climber
portland,
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Jun 29, 2009 - 10:58am PT
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Hey Healyje,
If you would just sport climb during the falcon closure at Beacon, it might keep that gut in check!!
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jun 29, 2009 - 11:02am PT
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Thats right, tried to get Healyjoe to join us and check out some other local crags other then Beacon, but he won't drive east! Never see him at Ozone either. He loves that Beacon Rock.
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WBraun
climber
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Jun 29, 2009 - 11:41am PT
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Cool setup Joe.
If someone finds a setup that works for them and they are comfortable with it then it's great.
Thanks for sharing your system Joe .....
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Double D
climber
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Jun 29, 2009 - 05:18pm PT
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" I started out using pursik knots to see if I could get the groove of solo"
I wasn't referring to using pursiks for a belay device, rather a mid-climb back-up anchor or used to take out the rope drag high up on a pitch. The pursik knot simply holds the rope taut. The key is to have a very long pursik knot so that the load goes to your main anchor first, thus avoiding getting short-roped into a high fall-factor situation.
I would be petrified using a pursik for a belay device. I just use a grigri.
It's funny, Bridwell called yesterday and for some reason we spoke of roped soloing. He was once asked to elaborate on a good system and his reply was, "I've got a great system, I have friends!" He went on to embelish the virtues of fellowship and teamwork.
Be safe!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 29, 2009 - 05:48pm PT
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I still think that roped soloing skills are a necessary adjunct to a skilled leader's toolbag.
What happens if your partner gets hurt and soloing for help is the best course?
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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Jun 29, 2009 - 06:43pm PT
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Good point, but if your partner gets hurt, you probably aren't going to have any nifty rope-solo setup on your harness.
So better practice that clove hitch (and don't fall with your thumb in the knot).
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crackfiend
climber
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Jun 29, 2009 - 07:03pm PT
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Good point Ron. Last summer on the reg on half dome our lead line got caught in a rope eating crack and we had to chop it almost dead in the middle. we then had two lead lines. on the longer pitches I would lead out 100 feet or so and then tie the ropes together and rope solo the the anchor. saved a bunch of bs midpont anchors and we still cruised at a good pace.
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couchmaster
climber
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Jun 29, 2009 - 07:39pm PT
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Good point, but if your partner gets hurt, you probably aren't going to have any nifty rope-solo setup on your harness.
healyje hiked in and rope soloed up and unstuck a rope at like 3 am for some freezing climbers with a stuck rope in Vegas last year. I suspect he'd figure it out if his partner got stuck and he had to make do.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jun 29, 2009 - 09:43pm PT
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McReel - good for you for checking it out. As Werner suggests, I think roped soloing is all about figuring out what works for you. I put out there what I do, but make no claims of any kind about it other than it works for me. Could something theoretically hit the cam tab surface - unlikely, but I suppose so - but, I put the risk of that way below other normal objective hazards in climbing such as rockfall or lightning. I personally wouldn't think twice about it, but again, that's just me.
Philly and studly - naw, I just can't get into spurt climbing, I'd rather just TR, focus on the movement, and not be bothered by all the annoying clips if I'm going to forego placing gear. Beacon will be open soon enough.
I've been roped soloing with one system or another since '75 and I agree with Ron that it's a very good skill and mindset to have relative to needing to perform in the case of an injured partner. The 'system' of choice for me is more a matter of convenience and speed; as Couchmaster notes, if I really had to, I could do it with a single non-locking carabiner in an emergency.
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Febs
Trad climber
Northern Italy
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Aug 19, 2016 - 02:14am PT
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Her, resurrecting old thread.
By chance, did anybody find a backpack that suits well this setup?
All those customizations are really out of my skills (and will).
thanks!
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Aug 19, 2016 - 03:46am PT
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Rope solo & Selfie shot.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
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Aug 19, 2016 - 04:15am PT
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Healy,
thoughtful, with good creative fixes for all the entanglements encountered while doing roped climbing alone.
Anyone notice how pleasant this thread has been without DMT's long winded standoffs?
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Aug 19, 2016 - 09:55am PT
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Left leg loop is twisted. Can you trust a guy who incorrectly puts on his harness. ;)
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2016 - 11:09am PT
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With the bump, I notice that my last post regarding the eddy was not favorable. Since that post, I used the eddy quite a lot for rope solo, for several years. Once I got used to it, I found it to work very well.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Aug 19, 2016 - 02:38pm PT
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McReel, yeah, I was a tad dubious at first because I thought the Eddy sucked for belaying and rappelling (and still do), but oddly enough it works well for rope soloing due to the fact the rope threads the device opposite a grigri. Glad it worked out for you.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 15, 2017 - 05:20am PT
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Do you play that piano?
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