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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 19, 2009 - 12:12am PT
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Thanks, Joe - when and where and why was that picture taken? A real classic.
I did Grack Marginal in the late 1970s, and don't remember it being much of a struggle. Squamish climbers were always quite used to slab climbing when we got to the Valley, and didn't have much trouble with that style. We mostly did it on "rest" days, as it tended to be more mentally than physically demanding. Sticky rubber has certainly helped with it - when I got started, we had Robbins shoes, which were OK at Squamish, which was rarely true friction, but it helped when EBs arrived.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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May 19, 2009 - 12:30am PT
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Anders
Just a day messing around with gov't equip and gov't time somewhere in the mid 60s. Probably out on a rescue practice or cutting wood for the winter cook stoves.
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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May 19, 2009 - 02:20am PT
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Bump 4 TR's.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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May 19, 2009 - 10:59am PT
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Ed, did you say 80 meter rope? Great TR, thank you all!
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
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May 19, 2009 - 11:06am PT
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Joe -
It's Carter here. I remember that Timmy Harrison had a extra large pair of shorts he wore over his pants in case of the slider. He called them something... Cochrane will remember.
Ever hear the story of Art (Animal Art) Hannan who out on the big runout moved slowly towards what he saw as the bolthanger only to have it take flight when he was a few meters from clipping? The butterfly's folded wings had pulled him off course! Panic followed. Art was a superlative raver - as I remember tears were involved.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2009 - 11:23am PT
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80 m, 9.2 Nano Fusion by Sterling
"highlight marker yellow"
just a bit stretchy but not too bad....
Russ tells me that I need 83 m, otherwise I'm hosed....
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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May 19, 2009 - 11:52am PT
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Ed, in my pic above, was that the line you travelled, where the rope goes in the pic?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2009 - 12:10pm PT
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yes, the leader has clipped the first fixed pin above the p3 anchor, moved up that corner, traversed to the "staircase" and is at the point of the second fixed pin under that little flake/roof... a couple three moves and he'll be onto 5.7 jugs to the Grack final anchors.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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May 19, 2009 - 12:26pm PT
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interesting, so the Reid topo shows the Marginal line going out right to the anchors between the two pieces in the pic.
going straight up skeered the bahjeebus out of me. only much later did I learn that we didn't go the right way.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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May 19, 2009 - 02:41pm PT
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Cool to see the pics. I lead the 1st, or is it the second pitch - out from the tree and over the cool overlap - 'bout 10 years ago, before I knew what a "runout" was. Seemed that pro so spaced out was just the norm for slab. Glad I was following on the long last pitch though!
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Eastside
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May 20, 2009 - 01:20am PT
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nice tr bump, thanks Ed, guido and, fuzzywuzzy
(omg, finn is going to hear that one!)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 20, 2009 - 09:17am PT
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Another great thread!!!
Anyone know the origin of the name "The Grack?"
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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May 20, 2009 - 05:33pm PT
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Funny Steve, I to was interested in the name but too embarrassed to ask since the Boo and I were on the first ascents. Where's Roper when we need him? Boo would know but he is off chasing his new love in Peru. I can think of a definition but it "ain't" pretty.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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May 20, 2009 - 05:43pm PT
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I think the "Grack" name originated with certain members of the Fresno Big Wall Society. Mike Brennan and others used to do the left side route and the next pitch, signing out for the first four pitches of Perhaps. The first ascent party of the Center Route simply ascended what was, then, a GRassy crACK, hence the name.
Sorry to be so prosaic, but that's what I was told.
John
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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May 20, 2009 - 06:54pm PT
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"that looks kinda gracky, let's do something else instead"
hrm, just doesn't work when applied that way in today's age and having climbed the Grack center.
:)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 22, 2009 - 02:31am PT
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Rob starting of on the second pitch above the flake at the start
...and a bit higher, having a small piece in at the tiny overlap the rope goes over, and a fixed pin in the bottom of the corner he is at...
We made it up at the same time a team on The Crack, Center and the ropes criss-crossed because I ran out the last bit of my pitch
the views were very nice that day
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Oct 21, 2009 - 01:58pm PT
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Bump for slab goodness, greasy chicken, and 80 foot sliders!
Guido, did you take advantage of losing your fingerprints to lead a life of crime?
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Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
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Oct 21, 2009 - 02:22pm PT
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Guido, the SoCal crew got their slab climbing
tit-growing phobia from the Colorado guys. :-)
Westbay, he's your culprit.
LOL
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Oct 21, 2009 - 03:05pm PT
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nice bump
ah, thx for the pics Ed. missed em first time around.
yeah, that way is skeery 4 me.
won't make that mistake next time.
sea of friction is right! beautiful!
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 21, 2009 - 03:58pm PT
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A climb that's apparently everything it's gracked up to be.
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