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Chip
Trad climber
Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
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May 11, 2009 - 10:15am PT
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Huge Bummer, but obviously could have been much worse. Certainly a big injury but look at how many others have gotten through this. My friend Drew had similar injury and ignored doing PT for a few months before I got after him. Why listen to your buddy the foot surgeon? He still did well and climbing better now than before.
I try to get all of my patients to do leg lifts, crunches, and dumbell work ASAP in bed after the surgery. This is a great time to go nuts on core strength and stretch any way you can imagine. You should be able to ride a stationary bike soon after your surgery for cardio as long as the foot is imobilized and you spin instead of stomp. Great time to explore flatwater areas by Kayak. Think about an area of your life that you might not have had the down time to invest yourself into. Some russian aiders could get you into aid sooner than later.
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nita
climber
chica from chico, I don't claim to be a daisy
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May 12, 2009 - 11:38pm PT
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TrevorJ, Hope you have a full recovery..take care & take it easy!
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TrevorJ
Trad climber
Aberdeen Scotland
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Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2009 - 05:30am PT
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Thanks again for all the helpfull advise. I will get back to some of you directly. Going in for surgery this afternoon and hopefully home tomorrow. Had a reality check and will delay the CA road trip till next year. Got some good plans for my downtime.
Rock on.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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May 13, 2009 - 05:56am PT
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hey there trevorj, say, glad to see you got a battle plan... more best wishes... that downtime can into "miracle time" for another area of your life, and you'll be glad, later, looking back...
thanks for sharing... will be praying for your surgery and all...
well, i need to get off line.... god bless... :)
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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May 13, 2009 - 11:14am PT
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I am knott a BAT [Busted Ankle Theorist] having survived some nasty screws and plates a few years ago. Different fracture, though.
Talk to Leo Houlding - he busted his talus and recovered. He can probably offer you some jen-you-whine advice that the BAT's cannot.
It's a fine line between working yourself hard to get better, and reinjuring yourself. I did the bimolallular [sp?] fracture in May, and got up El Cap in September. My ankle is still kinda stiff, but I can run and climb and it doesn't hurt, so I'm lucky.
So get it fixed, wait a bit, then shut up and climb.
Cheers, eh?
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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May 13, 2009 - 11:18am PT
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Heal up. Bike. Don't get depressed!!!
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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May 13, 2009 - 11:52am PT
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diversify... it's a good for your life.. people are serious about the depression factor. those endorphins drop like ..well, you know... rocks. especially at about 8 weeks out.
sorry this happened.. two friends of mine are rehabbing very similar injuries. Stay in the Moment. best wishes. LP
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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May 13, 2009 - 11:59am PT
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RG: "I'd go to someone who's background is working with athletes at a competitive level and getting them back to a competitive level ASAP."
Good advice that deserves repeating.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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May 13, 2009 - 01:40pm PT
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Looks like the OP busted his apostrophe key too!
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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May 13, 2009 - 01:48pm PT
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 13, 2009 - 02:49pm PT
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Good luck with the surgery!
Ankle injuries also tend to damage the ligaments and tendons there, plus the balance receptors. It takes about a year for them to heal, to the extent they will - the ankle will probably never be as strong as it was. So ditto on the strength, balance and flexibility exercises - do them religiously. The ankle may feel recovered well before it is, so adjust challenges accordingly, and consider more supportive footwear for climbs, approaches and descents.
I've found that swimming (structured workouts) and bicycling are both good for ankles and ankle rehabilitation. Running in water, too, if you have the patience.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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May 13, 2009 - 07:16pm PT
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As mentioned, I climbed El Cap four months later, but it was a chore. I felt pretty slow. My ankle did not feel strong enough that winter for downhill skiing, so I didn't ski a bit. I skiied somewhat the next winter, but it wasn't until the third winter it actually felt as strong as it needed to be. Takes time, but happens.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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May 13, 2009 - 08:28pm PT
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"I felt pretty slow.[/]"
BWAHAHAHAHA!!! :)
I'm glad your ankle healed up, dude. I remember being pretty stoked when you got back on the wall in September!
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tdk
climber
puhoynix
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May 13, 2009 - 09:00pm PT
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about 6 months before this felt solid again. learned a lot about patience, humility and thankfulness during that time. overall it was a positive experience, once I allowed it to be. good luck
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