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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2009 - 10:46pm PT
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WHG,
who are you? AMS, Alaska Mountaineering School?
Tell us something about you and John.
Talkeetna?
I think you worked on Denali with him?
Hope to hear from you.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2009 - 12:33pm PT
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John (left) and his friend Hugh in the Alaska Range.
Thanks Hugh.
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dmaples
Mountain climber
KY
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Apr 30, 2009 - 12:38pm PT
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BB (aka Survival),
Thanks for posting this thread. John was a great guy and taught me a lot as a young PJ. He was as Swerve said, more than willing to inform you that he was NOT an Englishman! The guy could also sing drinking songs long after everyone else hit the bag for the night. The man had personality and love of the mountains and was more than willing to share that love and knowledge with any interested party!
Dalton
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2009 - 12:43pm PT
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Dalton,
Thanks for joining in. You guys meant more to John than just about anything. I would love to see some PJ pictures of you guys. Or even some stories. You guys have SOOO many good ones.
There are rarely as good of story tellers as PJ's!
I hope to see you again someday.
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dmaples
Mountain climber
KY
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Apr 30, 2009 - 02:21pm PT
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I've got at great one about when I was at Survival School and it was raining at 32 degrees F and the instructors (not one to name names) had a heck of a time getting a fire going after the students couldn't-- even with white gas, but I digress.
John was quite funny and dry. We were on a winter training trip in the back of Eklutna Lake. Dead of winter and it was clear and friggin' cold. We went up to the Eklutna Glacier (John did teach me the correct pronunciation of a glaaa-ci-er). John and I (from western Kentucky) had many a "discussion" about the english language that we Amurkins bastardized it, always in good sport! We came back to our shelter, a parachute shelter and did I mention cold. I don't think it got about -15F for the three days we were there. A fire, adult beverages and the pipe. John enlightened us to pipes around the fire. We all had started looking for the best camp pipe we could find. The night progressed as our blood alcohol levelsalso. John shared hours of Welsh drinking songs. We all drifted off one by one to our tents until only John was left singing alone. He was never to be out done by us young pup Americans. The next a.m. there were a few dark stains down the side of a few tent doors. John dryly commented during breakfast something to the effect of bad lake water.
I honestly can't think of a glacier trip John wasn't on teaching during my three years with him while at the 71st ARRS at Elmendorf AFB in Anchorage. I went a few years after that before seeing him again. We ran into him at the NorthEast Fork of the Kahiltna Glaaaacier on our way to the West Rib. He was guiding a group on a traverse or over by the Cassin Ridge. We got to camp next to each other and it was a joy to share his company. I am sure there was a certain amount of pride that some of his pups were climbing the West RIb! The greatest form of flattery is imitation!
Dalton
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russoggi255
Trad climber
Kidderminster, UK
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Apr 30, 2009 - 03:08pm PT
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I climbed with John many times in Wales and spent most weekends crashed at his wonderful house in Capel Curig, North Wales.
In 1996 he persuaded me to go to Denali. We didn't summit but had a superb time getting some of the team to 17,000.
In 2000 I went down to Patagonia with him to try Aguile Poincenot. The day we arrived the weather was auperb, not a breath of wind, blue skys, hot sun so we decided to have a rest day. Hey we were new to Patagonia. Then the weather broke and we sat around camp or El Chalten drinking "Old Smuggler" whiskey and collecting ice from the lake for our Gin and Tonics.
I will post some photos from the Patagonia trip but I don't have any real good one of John.
There are some at http://www.russ-hore.co.uk/john_evans/
Russ
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2009 - 03:59pm PT
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First of all Mr. Maples memory must be getting faulty at his advanced age......there was never a time when Survival Instructors had trouble getting a fire started. I submit that he dreamed this incident in his hypothermic state at the time.
But after that, I loved the story about Eklutna and Denali!!
Thank you Dalton and Russ.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2009 - 06:29pm PT
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Photos of John in Patagonia, courtsy of Russ Hore, rescue team mate of Johns.
Russ, I'm going to leave it up to you to add captions and tell the story in your next post. I'll just put numbers on your pictures.
#1
#2
#3
#4 The classic John and his pipe!
#5
#6
I do hope Lynne is being well looked after.
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russoggi255
Trad climber
Kidderminster, UK
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Apr 30, 2009 - 07:02pm PT
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This was on our 2000 Patagonia trip where we were aiming to climb Ag. Poincenot. When we arrived in good weather we did not make the best use of it and the weather turned poor quickly leaving us with a lot of time on our hands. During our trip we made some great friends. At one point we assisted in a rescue of a climber who had abd off his rope whilst clearing a route on Fitz Roy. Our base camp tent became a rescue centre with us dishing out soup, tea, coffee and a little food.
#1 During one of our rest days, which we had most of the month we were there, John and I walked up to Laguna Sucia. The peak in the back is Ag. Poincenot
#2 Another rest day and John and I wandered East of the camp on to a low angled ridge. We got hit by some powerful winds and blasted by pebbles as we tried to descend a narrow gully. In the background is Lago Viedma.
#3 John in Rio Gallegos by the river. Bored, or more likely jet lagged, and waiting to get travelling to the mountains.
#4 On our drive from Rio Gallegos to El Chalten we stopped for a brew and for John to get his pipe out.
#5 John sorting kit beneath Fitz Roy.
#6 In base camp we had a bottle of gin and found some tonic in El Chalten but we had to have some ice so John and I wandered down to Laguna Piedras Blancas to collect some glacier ice. I love this shot as it shows John as he always was, relaxed in the mountains.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2009 - 09:53am PT
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Thanks again Russ for getting those cool pictures to me.
It must have been a great trip.
Don't worry, I got to do a lot of wandering around without climbing too much in Patagonia too.
Russ dropped me a note inviting any PJ's to Johns funeral.
"I heard today that a PJ Jim Mulchie (Not sure of the spelling) is living
in the UK and will be at the funeral. I would like to extend that invite
to all PJs who can make it. John would be proud."
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dmaples
Mountain climber
KY
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Thanks for those pictures of John. Love to see a friend smiling like that and yes the infamous pipe!
Yes, Jim will be there as well as a group of PJ's in full dress to honor John!
Survival, how we digress.... MR. Maples! MR. dang that hurts! When did I become a MR.?
Dalton
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2009 - 10:10am PT
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Dalton,
That is so great to hear that there will be PJ's there in full dress. What a touch of class.
If only the rest of us could be so well respected!
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dmaples
Mountain climber
KY
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Nice posts BB
I am quite proud that some of the men are honoring another fine man.
DM
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2009 - 03:46pm PT
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I'm proud to do something......anything at all, to honor Johns memory.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2009 - 10:29am PT
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From the Zen Bandit blog, by Brian Andreas.
I am the cloud & the green mountain waiting.
I am the still bamboo without wind.
I am the cricket each night that reminds you,
who are a thousand miles away,
there are always two cups at my table.
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Laura Wright
Social climber
AK
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There will be a service for John Evans on Sunday May 3 at 1:00 pm in Talkeetna at the Alaska Mountaineering School on 3rd Street. Please bring your memories and stories to share. We'll have the grill going for burgers and of course, the beer (and whiskey) will be flowing. A truly wonderful man who had such a positive effect on many people.
The Mountains are calling, and I must go. John Muir
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