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Dudeman
Trad climber
California/Idaho/Beyond
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Apr 15, 2009 - 11:56pm PT
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Very cool adventure Doug! Great images also!
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GDavis
Trad climber
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Apr 16, 2009 - 12:07am PT
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Man, just what I needed. Thanks!
What a sweet wall... so much unclimbed rock. Extraordinary. Put that wall fifteen minutes from the road and you would have another tahquitz... out there... its a sierra climbers jungle gym. Just the way it should be.
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JOEY.F
Social climber
sebastopol
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Apr 16, 2009 - 01:21am PT
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Really!
Tax day over, this is great...
Plan High Sierra, asap
Nice.
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GDavis
Trad climber
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Apr 16, 2009 - 02:10am PT
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TheChief
WOW. That is gorgeous. Looks like some fun can be had there... woah. How's the rock quality? Looks solid.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Apr 16, 2009 - 12:49pm PT
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Cracks? What cracks? I think a huge bolt kit will be needed to get past the blank sections.
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Alois
Social climber
Idyllwild, California
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Apr 17, 2009 - 11:25am PT
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Hi Doug
Congrats on what looks like a good route on this seldom explored peak. The South side looks full of possibilities. Langley today is in about the same situation Lone Pine Peak was in the mid 80s, a lot of potential and a few routes. The North side of Langley to the right of our arete (Rest and Be Thankful) has some wild possibilities on some much steeper ground and remains to be explored by those who don't mind long approaches and solitude. BTW, thanks for mentioning our effort on the North Arete. We loved the Tuttle Creek drainage and the wild scenery there, what a place.
Cheers and good climbing, Alois Smrz.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2009 - 01:03pm PT
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Greetings Alois,
Congratulations on the Rest and Be Thankful arete. Sure looks like a stellar route. Looong too. I suspect that your 15 pitches were a lot longer and more direct than ours. I mean, one of ours was just a 20' downclimb off a tower. With that one photo you fired my imagination, that's for sure.
I like your analogy to LPP in the Eighties. It's practically roadside compared to the north face of Langley. Surprising to me that no one seems to have followed your lead up there in the decade since. But then exploratory climbing in the Sierra is not what it was back in the Seventies.
The North Face is steeper off to the right, eh? Sifting through various photos it's hard to get a fix on, but I had definitely noticed at least one more nice arete over on that side. Nice that you are encouraging on the approach up the canyon. I've never gone any higher than the South Face of LPP...
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Alois
Social climber
Idyllwild, California
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Apr 17, 2009 - 02:03pm PT
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There are at least three aretes on the North Face. We picked what clearly looked like the easieast one although it had a tower at the start that wasn't part of the ridge. We shortened the route by a few pitches by starting behind that 1st tower. If you go up there, climbing the first tower on our route can wait (not sure it would improve anything), the second arete to the right will have a line that starts at the floor of the canyon and looks like a grade or so harder (also 4-5 pitches longer) than the Rest and Be Thankful. That arete looks awesome, we wanted to come back to it, but for various reasons (injuries) never did. The approach via the Stonehouse and Keyhole Wall is not that bad. All the way to Keyhole you follow what could be called a trail, above Keyhole, cross the creek to the left and hop up the talus to the base. There are couple of flat spots bellow the wall, water is near-by. Wonderful place. With all the gear for multi-day climbing, 5-6 hours from your car, maybe a bit longer for us over 60...
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alpinerockfiend
Trad climber
The American West
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Apr 17, 2009 - 02:07pm PT
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Thanks for the TR and info Mr. Robinson!
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TYeary
climber
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Apr 17, 2009 - 04:21pm PT
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Alois,
Wasn't there something you guys called the milk bottle tower?
Did that ever get explored? Just wondering if I should get off the couch.
Tony
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Apr 17, 2009 - 04:51pm PT
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swole!
to borrow a quote
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Alois
Social climber
Idyllwild, California
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Apr 17, 2009 - 06:56pm PT
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Tony,
That tower is still there, invisible, except in perfect lighting and if you stop in the right location. As far as I know it is still unclimbed. I have a slide of it here somewhere, an owesome sight. Looks like another Petit Griffon!
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TYeary
climber
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Apr 17, 2009 - 09:03pm PT
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Nice.
Should'a sent a PM. Now I'll have to stand inline!
Tony
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2009 - 09:08pm PT
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There's a striking needle just offroute of S-Wall too, 2/3 of the way up. Michael wanted to go climb it, but it was already getting late.
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Alois
Social climber
Idyllwild, California
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Apr 18, 2009 - 12:15pm PT
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Looks like somebody could have fun on Langley and for a few years. Only two (or so) technical routes on it now and a ton of possibilities. It'a a good, a bit away from it all place, if you run into someone, you propably know them or know of them, what more could we ask for?
Doug, again, thanks for the TR, congrats on a new route and thanks for reminding us, there is still plenty to do in our (much loved) Sierra.
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Double D
climber
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Hey Doug, great TR...somehow I missed it earlier. Man I'm homesick for the Sierras and your pictures are just fuel to the fire!
Proud line for sure. Great to see that you're still at it BTW.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Splendid outing, Doug!
Thanks for fitting it in.
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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nice explore!
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josan
Boulder climber
Sebastopol, CA
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Doug!!!
Now from Chapel Hill, North Carolina is sent a huge hello...grateful you are still moving on stone. You are held in the light and thought of with smiles.
Be well, my friend
Jo Sanders
josan48@gmail.com
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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Yowza, DR. That's "the business".
What it's all about. WooHoo!
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