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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Mar 20, 2009 - 12:04pm PT
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This is one excellent TR! Thanks for sharing it -
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F10
Trad climber
e350
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Mar 20, 2009 - 12:10pm PT
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Cracko,
"lose your dreams and you'll lose your mind"
Keep at it
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Mar 20, 2009 - 12:14pm PT
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I don't understand what went so badly about that whole deal aside from the drip off NA???
One of the first things you'll need to learn to deal with if you plan on soloing El Cap is the dissapointment of not reaching your goals. Sometimes you may come up a pitch short for the day...oh well, does it mean the day went badly? Does it mean it's time to bail? F*#k no, get up earlier and push harder the next day.
You got a taste of what you are in for soloing El Cap and it sounds like that was your goal, so mission accomplished!
I wouldn't put any weight on the car to car time thing. If you are allready analayzing times you are bound to drive yourself crazy soloing the Captain and bail. Bring enough stuff and take as long as it takes.
Another tip, get yourself (or pull it out of the closet) a nice comfortable large volume backback with good straps for carrying your gear to the base. Makes the approach much less miserable. I try to never carry more then a few pounds in the haulbag on that last load.
Good luck man!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Mar 20, 2009 - 12:34pm PT
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Well done, Cracko!
When I was 56 (emphasis on was) I discovered what you discovered. I intended to do the first pitch of Pacific Ocean Wall and then move on to the first pitch of the NA. I had a big enough rack to leave gear in every placement and still have enough left over to solo the Nose.
After getting soaked on Pacific Ocean (also in March), I lumbered back to the car, drove to the Lodge, and crawled up the first pitch of Rixon's Direct South Face. These two events combined took all day. Like you, they also taught me that aerobic shape has something to do with successful aid soloing of big walls.
I proceeded to get in that shape. Unfortunately, though, my method was one I can't recommend -- viz. six months at Taft Federal Correctional Institution. Once I got out, the reality of paying for two children in college forced me to work about four jobs to earn half as much money as I earned before the events that led to my aerobic fitness, so I'm now just as out of shape as before, but the dream lives on.
Keep posting. You inspire a lot of us aging would-be (or have-been?)lions.
Thanks again,
John
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bobinc
Trad climber
Portland, Or
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Mar 20, 2009 - 01:51pm PT
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Wait...what about the prison TR?
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2009 - 02:26pm PT
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Well, I want to thank you all for listening and responding. All in all, I find ST Forum to be a source of inspiration regardless of how often I feel like the recipient of the quote from the movie "A Knights Tale"........."You have been weighed, you have been measured, and you have been found wanting." Now, as a result of my post, I must suffer through the indignity of being placed on the "couch" by Pete, with his " To me, the really interesting part of your trip report will be if you choose to share what went on in your mind when you bailed, how you are feeling now, and what you hope to accomplish in the future."
Sorta of reminds me of the comment by one of my father's friends who was being asked about the counseling he was involved in...."I know I'm an as#@&%e....why should I pay somebody $100 an hour to tell me so??" Well Pete, here is my response to your question.
While standing atop the Moby Dick pillar, after successfully ascending Moby Dick Center, I sat back, focused on the beautiful scenery, and thought of my children. I thought of the time, ten years ago, when I arrived at the summit of Zodiac and listened to my young daughters, who were watching below, praise me on the two-way radio as Jason Parr of NPR asked me..."What are you feeling right now?". The tears streaming down my face were the only answer I had. I am a very emotional human being who sees climbing as a symbol of the value of pursuing one's dreams. It is something I try to remember every day as a middle school principal. What made me lose my resolve at this point?? I think it was a combination of not knowing if I had the "wide gear" necessary to complete the next pitch, coupled with the fact that I wasn't confident in my "wide" free climbing technique. As I sat on the ledge, I "analyzed" myself, and thought that if I were actually starting my solo of El Cap that I would make it happen. As I sit here typing on my computer, I find myself eager to return to this pitch and make it go !!!
As I sit here in the aftermath of my El Cap solo training trip, I know that an eventual solo of El Cap will be the "real world application", and culminating event, in instilling in my children, and students, the importance of dreaming.....establishing life goals, and working hard to realize them. Thanks for asking.
Cracko
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up2top
Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Mar 20, 2009 - 03:02pm PT
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You give me hope, bro. Keep at it.
Ed
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Paulina
Trad climber
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Mar 20, 2009 - 03:05pm PT
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Cheers! You climbed, that's all that matters.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Mar 20, 2009 - 03:11pm PT
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Cracko,
You must have had at least a couple #4s to get up Moby Dick Center right?
I don't recal using anything bigger then that till like pitch 4 or 5 I think where we used an old 4.5 for one move.
Those pitches are nothing special anyway, just grovely easy aid.
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2009 - 03:15pm PT
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Thanks Lambone,
You're probably right! I don't recall anything more than a #3 on Moby Dick Center, and that first part on pitch three looked a hell of a lot wider than that. Let's face it....I was intimidated, and tucked tail and ran to the Lodge. Damit! I'm headed back next month.
Cracko
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Mar 20, 2009 - 03:18pm PT
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Cracko,
The title should be training goes radly. You got out and did it! I've bailed of much less consequential things for lamer reasons.
It's a darn fine inspiration for those of us that also aspire to solo walls.
The funny thing is, when I was younger, in better shape and had basically no worldly reasons not to jump on a solo wall, I didn't as I didn't have the head for it. Now, I have the head for it, but due to lack of shape and family/career obligations It'll be some time.
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Mar 20, 2009 - 03:19pm PT
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Alright then, I have on my calendar to expect the next TR installment of more successful El Cap Solo Training. I can't wait to see.
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Mar 20, 2009 - 03:22pm PT
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I personally wouldn't say that your El Cop Solo trip went badly at all. It was a learning experience and when soloing its not unusual to get head butted.
For example, I driven to Zion several times over the last few years with grandiose plans and ending up not getting up anything at all. Each time I try to just learn from it, get up earlier in the morning and hit the treadmill a bit more, put the topo back up in my cube at work, block out the time off and try again.
Being stubborn really helps!
Don't give up on your dream to solo el cap (it's still on my hit list as well), and just be realistic that its going take some time to get there. The best part is that you're already started.
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Mar 20, 2009 - 04:20pm PT
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The difficulty of climbing elcap, solo or otherwise, increases exponentially the closer you actually get to the rock. At home... no problem. In the cafe... no problem. At the bridge... starting to look like it might not be so easy. At the base... well it doesn't seem like it was such a good idea. Always haul your gear to the base after you have fixed a pitch or two. By then you will know if it is really working for you.
Anyway you had a memorable time of it and that is all that counts... it is for you to enjoy, reflect upon, suffer or smile. The Captain is a great teacher and one can always learn something of value from him.
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2009 - 04:24pm PT
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Thank you Tom. You are on the money !!!
Cracko
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Mar 20, 2009 - 04:25pm PT
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"Always haul your gear to the base after you have fixed a pitch or two. By then you will know if it is really working for you."
That's really good advice from Tom. It's allways a bummer to see solo climbers doing the walk of shame with a full haulbag. If your stuff isn't up there yet it's hardly even a bail!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Mar 20, 2009 - 05:03pm PT
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Cracko,
I really admire that you invested the time, effort and humility to give it a shot and then share with us. I have to agree with Lambone, though. It doesn't sound like things went that badly, though I don't know how much Advil you needed the morning after.
I'm 44, married, two kids, self employed, have four routes under my belt, and would be more than happy just to get another trip up the Captain. I like to think when my kids get older, both of whom climb everything they see, they'll let me jug behind them when they do NIAD or Freerider, but I'd still love to finish off Mescalito or bag Zenyatta, etc., before I become their belay slave.
Keep the dream alive!
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2009 - 06:25pm PT
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I really apprceciate Lambone's advice. He is spot on, and I will be implementing his recommendations!. For those of you who inquired as to the extent of my soreness, I would respond by saying that nothing lasted beyond the day after, and I left my Advil at home!!! Brother Jacko and I will be back in Toulomne this summer knocking off some classic routes, and if the stars align with my training, I will jump on El Cap in late summer or Fall solo. The "Magic", and a strong dose of reality, are both alive.
Cracko
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Festus
Mountain climber
Enron by the Sea
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Mar 20, 2009 - 07:07pm PT
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That was such a great TR that, amazingly, it completely neutralized my drive to take the usual cheap shots like "Mix in a salad!" or "How about losing that gunny sack of pistachios you call an ass?" Aw, dammit, I just did it anyway!
Well, maybe I can make amends by sharing this photo--taken by el cap-pics if I'm not mistaken--of your actual climbing pants and shoes during this solo training. Impressive if this is you! Less so if it's only some white M.C. Hammer on a St. Patrick's day camping trip.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Mar 20, 2009 - 08:55pm PT
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Cracko, have you picked a route to solo yet?
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!