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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Yeah whatever, I was really glad I soloed the Prow before Zod.
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Prod
Trad climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
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Great advice so far. Leaning toward the Trip as I also believe in baptism by fire.
Matt,
I will have the summer to play/ practice solo technique here on 80' crags. but I appriciate your input.
Prod.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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word. some people have the gene for compulsive immersion therapy, some don't. Not sure I would wish the 'learn everything the hard way' tic on anyone but that's yr. call.
FWIW I decided after a couple seasons of rope-soloing around on 80' cliffs that there was nothing I didn't know how to do, at least nothing real significant, as far as leading and aiding and all that, so what was stopping me? The rest you learn or make up on the way. There came, of course, numerous opportunities in finding out how much I didn't know once I committed to the big stone, but few of them were technical.
I think D.'s experience on the Dihedral might tell you something about biting off big mouthfuls for the first go-round.
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Prod
Trad climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2009 - 03:07pm PT
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RR,
I'm well aware that I'll be in, and get in, over my head physically, mentally, and technically here and there, but I'm ok with that. Which D had an experience on Dihedral? I'd like to read that. Do you have a TR of your solo?
Good advice Mike and easily done.
Prod.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Dean went to do it; too long/hot, bailed. Consolation trip up WFLT.
No write-up of which I'm aware.
None on mine either, sorry. Some stories on a thread re: big wall hissy fits.
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hollyclimber
Big Wall climber
Yosemite, CA
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I soloed this. The haul was super easy. Not a pain. Also fine when not soloing.
I have rapped this too. I don't think its worth it. Great skill to learn, how to rap El Cap. Not sure I am glad I learned it, as I later put it to use for the first time last year. I recommend shlepping your stuff to the top. Its bad when you don't know the way/the first time. In reality, it is NTB. I have done that shlep 7 times I think? (Lf, Lf, W Butt, Dihedral, Aquarian, NNL, Octopussy). Risk of ropes getting stuck = high. Risk of blowing it = existant. These risks when hiking approach zero. And, it doesn't reduce the hiking to zero and the shlep down from LF base is not so fun. Done that 3 times. Not recommended.
Prod- Solo what you feel like soloing. Thats the best plan. What does anyone else here know about what you want to solo.
I was inspired to solo the Dihedral Wall. Still, that was the hardest wall of my life because I was alone. (BTW, great solo route and my bags did not get stuck).
Holly
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Gene
climber
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Prod,
Whatever you do, have a blast. That's the purpose, right?
Good luck,
Gene
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Prod,
Well props to ya for bighting off the big stone first!
Just remember, it's not nescesarily the basics (leading/cleaning/etc) of soling that make doing El Cap hard for your first wall solo.
It's the logistics of being on a wall for 7+ days alone. Lots of food and water to haul on your own, and no one to share any of the burden with.
I can gaurantee that you will move slower then you ever have, and slower then you'd expect soloing El Cap. Conervatively, 2 pitches quickly turns into a full day of work. And 3 pitches in a day is a lot of ground to cover...
Also, staging for the wall (carrying loads, fixing, etc) if you don't have help also takes about twice as long. And you'll need to do the descent likely 2-3 times on the East Ledges. So be sure to figure that into your time schedule.
Good luck bro, you can do it!
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Michael D
Big Wall climber
Napoli, Italy
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Since you said you just wanted to solo a wall..maybe, any wall?
Leaning Tower is fun, and is easy to haul. Solo'd both WFLT and WDD, no problems, straight forward. WDD might be my all time fav, as nobody else was on the line and you could relax and climb at your own pace. Have fun!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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If you are determined, and a good rock climber who practises, you can probably make it up El Cap solo your first time. Ricardo did.
If you want to play it safe, go solo WFLT first. Your chances of success are far higher.
But if you go to solo El Cap, do knott under any circumstances sell yourself short regarding time - allow yourself a minimum of two weeks start to finish. Bring extra food and water to guarantee success. Know how to haul above in all circumstances. Have your Far End Hauler ready for the last pitch[es].
Shut up and climb.
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Just so happens that I have soled both Aquarian and Lurking Fear..the first 12 years ago, the last 2 years ago. Both were incredible experiences. When I did Lurking Fear, I also considered rapping Lurking Fear. Now that I've been up there, I realize that would be a huge mistake. Main reason I say so is that it would absolutely hose anybody on the route...which is almost for sure. I think the topout is super cool, two pitches of climbing off Thanksgiving and then you can shuttle loads to the top. Takes about half a day or longer, but it's really neat up there. My haul bag never got stuck on the Aquarian, did have a huge issue from pitch 12 to 13 (I think) on Lurking Fear. It's the pitch off the OK sloping ledge that is actually quite horrible...the next bivi is much better. The last pitch to Thanksgiving is pretty bad hauling too, but doable. Probably not a good route to solo for the first time due to popularity, I got lucky and pretty much owned the thing...two day parties passed me real quick. Cheers!
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Get on the Trip and make it past pitch 4 on day one, gauranteed you wont bail.
fwi
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BooYah
Social climber
Ruby Range
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Go for full value. Go big! BooYah!
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Prod wrote: "In researching I have found that hauling from the top out to the East Ledges decent is a pain. Somewhere I have read that rapping Lurking Fear from Thanksgiving Ledge is a good option."
Anyone who would suggest that you rap down an El Cap big wall (even slabby big wall like LF), as opposed to walking over to the East Ledges and descend that way, is assigning you a needlessly dangerous and involved task. Hauling up anything low angle is a PITA, but made far easier by keeping things light so said pig is nothing more than a sausage.
The other thing is this fairly modern idea of reversing stuff - for convenience sake - before the climb has actually been completed. Pretty soon folks might be climbing "The Nose," but bailing at the Boot because they don't want to deal with the Gray Bands.
You do the whole Mo Foo, good and bad, and get the whole experience. This business of trying to eliminate the thorny bits on a big climb is absurd. Big climbs are all PITA on some level. Accept this, or change sports.
BTW, for a first solo wall, how about The Prow (bit of groveling at the top, but fairly straight up and down) or the Zodiac??
JL
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Prod
Trad climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2009 - 09:22pm PT
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Lambone,
That is the plan. Fix to 4 then blast. Looks like I have a pal who will swap pitches to 4 and help shlep loads, then solo from there.
JL.
First wall was Zodiac, 2nd wall this Sept looks like it will be Tangerine Trip. I agree take the good with the bad.
Cheers,
Prod.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Prod, start early fixing to p4, it is a longer day then you'd think.
And, this is REALLY important...if you can't make it to 4, do not fix to the top of p2 unless you use a rope protector. My buddies core shot their rope bad jugging up to the top of p2. Was like halfway cut through, there is a bad edge just below the anchors.
You need to go to either p3 or 4, not 2. p3 is a pretty short easy pitch.
And fwiw, I would not fix the first 4 with a partner. Do it yourself man. Most likely they will try to talk their way onto the climb, or you'll end up wanting them with you. Face it alone from the ground!
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dave 32768
Trad climber
Philadelphia, PA
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Hi all,
I'm in the midst of planning a trip to the valley with a friend in a couple of weeks. If (and it's a big if) we get a decent weather window, we're planning on getting on a wall. After reading a bunch of threads here on winter walls, Lurking Fear is at the top of our list. We've been planning on leaving the pig on Thanksgiving ledge, topping out, and rapping the route, but we're definitely reconsidering after reading this thread.
So here's the question- would you still recommend the east ledges over rapping for a winter (or late march in our case) ascent? I've heard some horror stories about east ledges being a wet, icy, snowy nightmare. I'm thinking that we'll check out the conditions when we get there and plan on it being a lengthy PITA either way.
thanks!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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I descended the East Ledges last winter after a push of Zodiac - there was about a foot of snow on the slabs. It was far more do-able and far less scary than I had imagined. You should be fine in a few weeks.
Rappelling Lurking Fear could be good this time of year when the route is deserted - it's just no good to meet someone coming up as you're heading down.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Good to know, Pete. I was wondering and secretly fearing descending the East Ledges with all the recent snow, if we went up last week.
I've done a few walls in winter conditions, but only one in Yos. Did Leaning Tower in a push a couple of Decembers ago. The descent was interesting, but also not as bad as I thought. Definitely thought provoking though, as there was stuff coming down and things were wet and loose.
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