Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
|
|
Remember the Gendarme nuts made by Markwell? The worked well at Seneca. They were made in the back of his shop. Maybe they were crafted from the heaps of Stroughs empties that gathered every weekend!
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
Rich, I wish I'd kept my set of Colorado Nuts. These seem to be the only survivors.
Both are from earlier batches, before they started polishing.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2011 - 12:16pm PT
|
The hex in question is defintiely an SMC which accompany the SMC wedges. I am sure that Marty has one of these as they are pretty common.
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2011 - 01:31pm PT
|
Did someone say drilled???
|
|
Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2011 - 12:43pm PT
|
Steve: You are correct. I found that nut again last winter, when I was digging through old gear in search of a drilled #8 Chouinard Hex for you.
I wanted to talk with someone from SMC at the Jan. Outdoor Retailer Show, that might have SMC history. It didn't happen.
The first photos in this thread are of that nut in the Fall of 1972. It just did not compute in my gear time-line that SMC was making hexes that early-and certainly not drilled hexes.
Oh well. When I stop learning, I'll not be living.
I would love to see a SMC product history with photos.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2011 - 02:04pm PT
|
Pull ups Fritz pull ups, COR is coming up. I'm heading out to clip some bolts to get ready. Tackle might come.
|
|
jstan
climber
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2011 - 02:26pm PT
|
It was not at all unusual for people to drill holes in hexes from whatever manufacturer. I did some. SteveW the same it appears. I saw some nuts slung as shown. You could do this yourself but I never trusted this technique. The breaking strength of the sling can be reduced if it is bent over a small radius of curvature. Hard to get in there with a bit to chase those holes out for the sling. Doing that also reduces the cross sectional area of the aluminum that has to bear the load. At the minimum a good engineering calc would be called for. Probably need a finite element model. Didn't have excel at the time.
Agreed. Wiring reduced one's ability to place them.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2011 - 02:28pm PT
|
Fritz- Put together a list of questions and I might be able to find someone at SMC to respond. They are still here in Drizzletown last time I checked.
|
|
reddirt
climber
PNW
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2011 - 02:32pm PT
|
Just curious, is anyone using drilled hexes now?
signed,
hexes-are-not-obsolete-but-prefer-them-slung-not-wired
|
|
Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2011 - 04:34pm PT
|
Steve: Outdoor Retailer starts on Thursday of this week. Let me see if I have any success talking to an "old guy" at SMC. I'll know more in a week or two.
It was a little wintery in the Bugs Oct of 1972.
|
|
couchmaster
climber
pdx
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2011 - 11:48pm PT
|
Sweet thread! (the history, not the thread though the nut ...yuk yuk.)
|
|
Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2011 - 12:40am PT
|
Bruce: Re. your comment on our "screw-heavy" rack for the Bugaboos in 1972.
That looks like a rather wintery visit to the bugs and what an awe inspiring rack you took there!
A bit heavy on the screws maybe?
We did not have a clue what we might find-----and took everything we had.
Bugaboos Oct 1972 for Idaho boys = major climbing culture shock.
We were suddenly in Patagonia, just north of our border!
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
Whatever possessed you to go to the Bugs in October? I've heard of people climbing there in September, but it must get fairly limited by October. Though maybe thunderstorms are less of a problem then.
|
|
Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2011 - 01:03am PT
|
Mighty Hiker: Re your question.
I was 22 years old.
I had worked as a Middle Fork Salmon River Guide, all summer in Idaho.
In late Sept. Harry, David, & I went up to the Cascades and climbed Mt. Baker,------then we drove to the Bugaboos.
Yep!
Made sense at age 22.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!