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RDB
Social climber
way out there
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2009 - 11:39pm PT
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Some fun stuff I have seen recently.
How about a almost new pair of size 11 Super Guides?
Or a pair of brand new Super guides? $400 plus shipping and insurance from France. Should be easy enough!!
Or new pair of Makalu
Hardware extra :)
Always interesting to know some weights and make soem comparisons to modern boots.
Newest Sportiva Evo Nepal is 2lb 10.4 oz per boot
Galibier Super Guide in the same 45 size 2lb 15 oz per boot
Super Guides give a lot more ankle support and flex a bit under the toe in my size. Easy to rock climb in and a small volume boot. Pull that old heavy and clunky Makalu rubber sole and add a new lwt Vibram similar to what Sportiva is doing and I suspect the Super Guide weight would easily drop below 2.5 lbs.
Nepals are fexible in the ankle in comparison and not a hint of flex in the sole. Ok to rock climb in and a much higher volume (read warmer) boot.
So much for the BIG boot "of yesterday". The current boots are pleanty BIG as well.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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I preferred Peutereys for rock climbing- a little lower so gave you a little more 'smearing' ability.
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RDB
Social climber
way out there
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2009 - 12:53am PT
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Yep, the Galibier Peuterey, pretty much what every modern technical boot out has copied for ankle flex and sole stiffness. Some even softer now. Nepal isn't much stiffer just a good bit higher. Peuterey was the rock boot, the Super Guide the ice boot. Remember the Walker? Peutereys really with a slightly higher cuff and a sew on leather gaiter?
Richard Pontvert had mtn boots figurd out and a model for every style of climbing in the Alps.
I still like how stiff the ankle is on the Super guide. Only thing I have seen that is close these dasy is the Spantik. That kind of support makes a decent ski boot :)
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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I think I have some pics of us climbing Washboards at Peshashtin in our Galibiers - Yee ha!
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RDB
Social climber
way out there
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2009 - 02:21am PT
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Don't be teasing me Reilly. I've done Washboards in Galibier boots but they were a pair of rock shoes.
Let's see those pictures!
a slick 5.10....in 1960.
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RDB
Social climber
way out there
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2009 - 10:45am PT
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Hey Reilly, I was laying in bed this morning thinking about all the early stuff I saw done in Peshastin in mtn boots. Slider Thread and Fakin It were two of them.
Timson Route on Gilvers Dome another.
I had forgotten how unspecialised climbing was back in the early '70s. Then I found Robbins boots, PAs, RD, RRs, Shoenards, EBs, Contacts.
Chricky I spent a lot of money on shoes!
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Brad Steinfeld
Ice climber
Goshen
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Jan 27, 2010 - 08:50pm PT
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Guy's you are sure bringing back the oldies but real goodies for me.
In addition to a lot of old stuff still stacked up in the basement are a pair of size 10.5 Makalu's that I would take offers on if anyone is interested in them. excellent plus condition.
I won't temp you with the other "junk" other than to say there are about 30 old hand made and early Pre Great Pacific bongs that I helped Warren Harding pull from the WF Leaning Tower and a few early apron routes we were playing with. yes my bones are that aged!
If anyone has an interest in the Galibiers drop me a line.
Thanks again for the stroll down memory crag.
Regards,
Brad
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jan 28, 2010 - 12:10am PT
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Bruce
I had a pair of those Makalu's too--kept 'em for years,
and decided it was time to give them up in 2005. I had them
sent over to Pakistan for survivors of the quake as the AAC
had put together a drive for warm boots & clothing for those
poor people there. . .
My plastiques are so much lighter!!!!
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Jun 11, 2016 - 01:20am PT
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I have already posted the following stuff on another thread, but this one seems to be a little more appropriate: If you look for the Trappeur Nanda Devi on the Internet, you will not find any information or photograph about them… The French mountain guide Walter Cecchinel was the technical adviser for Trappeur in the seventies and eighties. If they are not as famous as the Galibier Desmaison Makalu-Hivernale, from the historical point of view the Trappeur Cecchinel Nanda Devi are most interesting. Used on the Nanda Devi in 1975, these boots summited the Everest with Pierre Mazeaud, Jean Afanassieff and Nicolas Jaeger during the first French ascent in 1978. Then they became the Trappeur Everest 78!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 11, 2016 - 06:53am PT
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The boots available in the 70's, compared to today's lineup, truly, truly, sucked. The ONLY thing they had going for them was good workmanship. They were heavy, cumberson and didn't fit well. They also weren't very warm and got wet easily. I guess that in a real pinch, if you sliced them very thinly, you could eat them.
I have ZERO nostalgia for them. If I still had any I would give them away free if whoever wanted them would pay the expensive shipping costs those meaty monsters would require.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Jun 11, 2016 - 07:32am PT
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"good workmanship" is heavily enough to make me nostalgic...;-)
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jun 11, 2016 - 07:35am PT
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I have ZERO nostalgia for them Ha!
I still take great pride in having climbed long 5.8 alpine routes in Galibier Vercors.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 11, 2016 - 07:43am PT
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I have no nostalgia for any of the gear that I used from the late 60's on. I guess I do take a perverse pride in what I was able to get up with that shite.
I'm still trying to push my personal envelope in alpine climbing and I'm using only the latest, most advanced, equipment to help do it. Going back to the Latok region in August!
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jun 11, 2016 - 08:55am PT
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That's ok Donini. I'll continue to be nostalgic about 70's gear.
I bought a pair of Galibier Hivernales in 1970, last wore them about 1980 & finally gave them away in 1994. I now regret not keeping them.
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Happy Cowboy
Social climber
Boz MT
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Jun 11, 2016 - 09:02am PT
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Haderer's noted in the threadhead. First sighting? These are the bomb. Made in Salzburg, Austria, early 70's.
I differ from "Sir Jim". More than just workmanship these are the nearest to "goat boots" I ever knew, and capable to this day, ah the boots not me. Look at the sole rocker, designed for miles, and miles of approach. Waterproofness? A peak inside reveals the core, 2 rows of wooden pegs holding the midsole together. The only exposed stitching at the toe, i.e. minimal needle punctures where water contact.
A stiff toe 45 yrs and counting...I have to agree on HEAVY!
But FIT??? You could order custom, and wait...I lucked into an early "production run" @ TM in Jackson. The tongue stamp says it all: size 44 1/2, #7 (forefoot)widest, #1 (heel) narrowest. #'s 1-3 were heel sizes and 4-7 forefoot width. This pair still fit perfectly. They also climbed rock very well. Made a niche feel like a ledge.
I'd climbed in Peuterey's prior, which I did like but had punched a big hole in the toe.
I've hiked and climbed a gear room of shoes. Many discarded after a trip or two from lousy fit. Not a problem for Haderer.[photoid=460239]
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jun 11, 2016 - 09:09am PT
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I still have my Galibier Makalu boots. Anyone want to buy them? They were the largest size available at the time, what ever that was.
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Happy Cowboy
Social climber
Boz MT
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Jun 11, 2016 - 09:33am PT
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Sorry, havin trouble posting multiple pics. Here's the boots sizing
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Happy Cowboy
Social climber
Boz MT
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Jun 11, 2016 - 09:35am PT
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Haderer of Salzburg, Austria
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Happy Cowboy
Social climber
Boz MT
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Jun 11, 2016 - 10:10am PT
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and another, basic 7 lb pr. Bumb to Tarbuster on Heavy Leather!Wayne Shorter plays the sax just how he feels...
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Jun 11, 2016 - 10:12am PT
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I had a pair of Civettas(sp?) and a pair of Super Guides. I also had a pair of Kastinger's that I haven't been able to find any pictures of online. They had a gusset front like the Galibiers did and the top of the tongue/gusset was red plastic with the Kastinger logo on it (I think). They also had a fairly substantial snow cuff, and were from around the mid to late 70's. Do these ring a bell with anyone?
edit: I think they had a 3/4 steel shank, worked pretty well with rigid crampons (Chouinard black anodized), not as well as the Super Guides.
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