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Manny
Social climber
tempe
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Jan 13, 2009 - 01:58pm PT
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Nice TR; volcanic breccia is also found at Camelback Mtn in Phx AZ. It looks like I'd feel right at home.
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PP
Trad climber
SF,CA
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Jan 13, 2009 - 02:10pm PT
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When I did MD I went too far to the left looking for the second pitch (or third ?) and went up an unprotected water chute for 60+ feet. It was a bit scary.
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nutjob
Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
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Jan 13, 2009 - 02:17pm PT
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Good job guys! I'll ride the coat-tails of your trip reports til I make time to get back out there :)
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jan 13, 2009 - 02:22pm PT
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Manny, I climbed once on Camelback Mountain. Holy wow, the rock was kitty litter! You'd certainly feel at home at Pinnacles. From what I saw of Camelback, you'd mostly think you were on really good rock. Camelback rock seemed as bad as the worst Pinnacles routes I've ever been on.
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piquaclimber
Trad climber
Durango
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Jan 13, 2009 - 03:38pm PT
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Nice report Zander.
I didn't know about this place. I'll have to add it to the list of places worth visiting. :)
Cheers,
Brad
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hamid
Trad climber
Berkeley, California
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Jan 13, 2009 - 07:06pm PT
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This was the first climb I ever did. Actually we didn't do the direct variation. Anyway, this was the climb that got me hooked. 9 years later, I'm still hooked...
Peace,
-Hamiz
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2009 - 08:37pm PT
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Hey Hamid,
Long time!
PP,
That pitch is now rated 10b X! We were pretty careful not to go over there.
Zander
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jan 13, 2009 - 09:20pm PT
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So, I may be hittin' the Pinns this weekend for the first time. The better rock quality is West side, right, as well as the camping?
Anything I should know, must do routes, etc...
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jan 13, 2009 - 10:06pm PT
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You'd dig it, Manny! Many climbs there are even more solid than Bomberos Away! It's not for everyone, but you've got the skill/experience set to feel comfortable there from the beginning.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Jan 13, 2009 - 10:11pm PT
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cheers to a good TR
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jan 13, 2009 - 10:33pm PT
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Can I get some f-king beta, please?
Don't make me start a political thread....
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davidji
Social climber
CA
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Jan 13, 2009 - 11:06pm PT
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Thx for the TR Zander! Makes me want to get up there.
Yup, Steve & I climbed Sunday.
Brad thx for the beta in the parking lot. Clint & Dennis thx for the beta on the missing crux bolt on Lava Falls! The bolt is there now I'm sure.
It might have been 6 yrs since I was at Pinnacles last. Fun!
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jan 13, 2009 - 11:48pm PT
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Bluering: camping on the East Side only. Good rock on both sides, depends on what you decide to climb (likewise, you can find bad rock on both sides). Large concentration of good climbs in Bear Gulch (close to parking lot on East Side). Also huge concentration of climbers in same place. Super hiking, location and climbing (mostly moderates) to be found in the High Peaks, which is accessed from either side.
That's a thumbnail. Ixxnay on the political thread?
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2009 - 12:11am PT
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"Don't make me start a political thread...."
My life passed before my eyes for a minute there... Gotta go sit down.... try to recover.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 14, 2009 - 01:00am PT
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davidji,
> Clint & Dennis thx for the beta on the missing crux bolt on Lava Falls! The bolt is there now I'm sure.
Yes, we placed all the glue-in bolts (1/2" x 6") on Sunday just before sunset, including that one which was missing when you and Steve were on Lava Falls. Sorry about that!
Of course, the bird nesting closures at the Balconies (also High Peaks, Yaks, and other places) start this Friday, so Balconies routes will have to wait until next fall.
bluering,
The beta in Brad's guidebook is very good - just look at the stars if you want to start on some of the better routes.
Most people start with Discovery Wall or Monolith - better rock quality and fairly short approaches.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jan 14, 2009 - 11:32am PT
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Mtnyoung and Clint, thanks, that helps.
(sorry I got a little bitchy)
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Jan 14, 2009 - 06:24pm PT
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Curious?
Is this the original Machete Direct route of the early 60's you are talking about?
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jan 14, 2009 - 06:57pm PT
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Guido: I think you're talking about a different route, The West Face. This route was done in 1963. It uses a bolt ladder to get up onto The Machete, but then traverses way north on a third class section. The West Face then finishes to the top of The Machete by way of two more pitches.
In 1974, Glen Denny and Gary Colliver put up a four pitch, more direct start to The West Face (hence the name "Machete Direct"). These four pitches connect with The West Face at the end of that route's third class traverse. They then share the last two pitches.
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