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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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Dec 19, 2008 - 03:11pm PT
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I grew up with hexes so I have a few always in the bag. I use them for top rope but tend to forget them when I am doing trad. Now that you mention it I will try to use them more for my anchors on trad.
The only problem I see with them is that I climb with a younger generation. They tend to view cams as being the bomber devices and hexes as being just cheap fixes.
Plus I must admit cams do seam easier to use since their size isn't so fixated. I know it is an illusion but... Using that trigger sure feel reassuring when you are up there.
AF
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
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Dec 19, 2008 - 03:13pm PT
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"...cams as being the bomber devices and hexes as being just a cheap fix. "
That about sums it up.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Dec 19, 2008 - 03:24pm PT
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Never bring them with me anymore except on the occasional Black Canyon route where I think the bail potential is significant.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Dec 19, 2008 - 03:30pm PT
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I still use them on a large aid rack, but probably wouldn't if I hadn't bought so many of them 35+ years ago. If I were starting out now, I'd probably use them only as a cost-saving option.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Dec 19, 2008 - 03:31pm PT
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Unlike large stoppers, there are still circles where hexes get used for ultra-light alpine.
Jim Nelson, at Pro Mountain Sports, includes a few hexes and tri-cams in his recommended skeleton rack.
I still carry hexes (usually several in the smaller and middle sizes) and stoppers for backcountry stuff where I might break out a rope but don't expect to find anything too stiff.
Easy to leave if need be, vastly lighter than cams, and a good compromise if I don't know the territory I expect to find. Ul rack, swami and a short 9mm make a huge weight savings.
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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Dec 19, 2008 - 03:33pm PT
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What's better than dumping a well used [ya know, with the shiny all gone and corners rounded off nicely due to wear] #6 hex into the back of a downward tapering, slightly inset crack?
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Loomis
climber
*_*
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Dec 19, 2008 - 03:38pm PT
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Hell, I used hexes on the last route I put up, the larger sizes work great on the wavy shít.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 19, 2008 - 03:40pm PT
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It's probably been over twenty years since I carried a hex. Still got some, and my partner often takes a few along, but we almost never use them.
My pride and joy hexes are some old clog cogs that I drilled out myself.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
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Dec 19, 2008 - 03:40pm PT
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hahaha Ummm... Can everyone still using hexes and supporting them, please edit your post to include your age. :)
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Dec 19, 2008 - 03:42pm PT
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"I used hexes on the last route I put up, the larger sizes work great on the wavy shít."
Yeah, I think there are huge regional and application differences. I wouldn't carry them for a weekend at the Cookie, but for a lot of alpine situs they remain really useful.
Not everyone gets Sierra splitters in their local hi-country. So I think you see some folks in the Cascades or back east still using tri-cams or hexes or some combination for particular uses.
Big stoppers, on the other hand, seem to be taking their place alongside the goldline and the corduroy knickers.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 19, 2008 - 03:42pm PT
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I don't carry them 'cause most of my partners wouldn't use them... but when I climb with ablegabel we use them off of his rack...
Maybe next time I do the FOBIAD I'd take a set of hexes and only one set of cams... keeping it light and expanding the utility range of the rack.
NEF dictated edit: I'm 54 (soon to be 55)
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poop_tube
Big Wall climber
33° 45' N 117° 52' W
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Dec 19, 2008 - 03:51pm PT
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Nef, 24 :-)
good thread
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
thats what she said...
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Dec 19, 2008 - 04:22pm PT
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I'm 26, leading under a year...i have plenty of cams but i always carry a few of the larger hexes despite being ridiculed by many of my peers. They are cheap and when you get a good placement, that smug satisfaction that Sherri mentioned really kicks in nicely.
To be fair, I am not a place where I have really led much at my limit-- still working out my systems and getting more proficient and efficient with the pro. If speed of placement was weighted heavier I would probably use them less. But maybe not. I'll have to check back when I start climbing harder...
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Dec 19, 2008 - 04:28pm PT
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If ya have to ask...
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Barbarian
Trad climber
all bivied up on the ledge
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Dec 19, 2008 - 04:35pm PT
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Yes....more cowbell!!!
I'm one of those old-school guys (21 at heart and 50 in real life) that still carries hexes....been carrying most of the same set since 1973. I have added cams to the rack, but know that a well set hex can be absolutely bomber (sometimes irretrievably so).
I prefer them in the backcountry....lighter than cams and nearly indestructable.
I love the sound of cams in the morning....they sound like climbing.
By the way, if anyone of you has a #5 and #7 from 1973, let me know...I'd like to get them to replace the missing sizes from my original set.
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chalkfree
Trad climber
Claremont, CA
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Dec 19, 2008 - 04:38pm PT
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Brent, 45, yes, an old dude and somewhat of a purist (chalkfree), so grew up using hexes and stoppers, and still carry a few hand-crack sized hexes (7,8,9), to extend my rack.
I learned to place passive gear well, before I had any cams. I see many folks just plug a cam a go, yes faster, but cams needs to be placed carefully as well, like passive gear, to be effective. I'll take a bomber hex/stopper any day over a cam, and agree they're good for belays.
I think hexes are worth a brief mention and have their place (but will likely die a painless death). I have fond memories of leading crack routes with hexes and stoppers only (like Reeds Direct in the valley).
Like that 4" tube, don't you?
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Euroford
Trad climber
chicago
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Dec 19, 2008 - 04:43pm PT
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if i think i might have a chance to bash one into an icy crack on something that will probably require rap anchors, than the 3 biggest metolious curve hexes come along for the ride. so for me, they get to maybe see daylite 1 or 2 times a year.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Dec 19, 2008 - 04:44pm PT
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For sedimentary rock with layered crack undulations I have found that some of the Clog curved hexes work where no other non camming nut will.
That said, I don't usually whip 'em out when racking with a partner.
People are overly reliant on SLCDs.
For roped soloing I like good old fashioned nut craft.
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crøtch
climber
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Dec 19, 2008 - 04:45pm PT
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Never while cragging, but I do carry the four largest hexes on alpine rock to expand my leaver gear options. I prefer slung curved hexes.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Dec 19, 2008 - 04:57pm PT
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Popular ? Nay.
Useful? Generally, yes.
The Standard Route up the Gallatin Tower (Canyon) gobbles hexes with slots practically created for them. Often, one can go there after the weekend and find at least one stuck cam. I've seen hexes pounded and "fixed", but not unremovable otherwise.
The example above is the extreme, with a popular route for beginners that is the exception, rather than the norm, for taking protection pieces popularly bought. There is prolly just as many lower grade leader carrying hexes on it--they just don't get stuck and left for the mid week pirates.
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