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rocknicenut

climber

Everett, WA

Dec 12, 2008 - 08:52pm PT

I'm way too lazy to figure out how to post a photo, but I've got a bent ice screw that I found up in the Canadian Rockies. Allways wanted to know the story behind that thing...

I've also got homemade 1/2 size friend that I bought in the Valley in 1981 before there were such things on the market. My friend Bill Myers bent it in a fall, but it held like a champ!

My best "broken protection" story (that I can remember) was of my lead rope abrading about 1/3 of the way through just in front of my knot after a "bomber" cam pulled. A very long fall ensued where time actually slowed down for me as I considered my next piece and the rapidly approaching ledge (didn't get a scratch). I really should have that #3 Hex mounted or somehting. One of lifes little moments...

Prod

Trad climber

A place w/o Avitars apparently

Dec 13, 2008 - 10:14am PT

Every time this post gets up toward the top I get a little queasy.

Prod.

rgold

Trad climber

Poughkeepsie, NY

Dec 13, 2008 - 02:52pm PT

Two shots of a pin in the Gunks that broke after a few moderate testing blows with a hammer. It definitely would have broken in almost any kind of fall. This particular piton is one of the ones made by John Stannard and placed thirty years ago. Thanks to the choice of materials and a coating, these pitons have remained reliable longer than anything else, but nothing is permanent and this one's time was definitely up. Fortunately, it was tested with a hammer before it was tested with a fall.

The corrosion seems to have occurred inside the crack, with considerably less evidence of damage on the part of the piton that was visible. Fixed pitons cannot be judged for security without a hammer. If you are clipping them, better also back them up!