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klk
Trad climber
cali
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"I know a place in WV that looks more interesting. Some true high-ball hard stuff (at least compared to these shortish problems).
That said, I have never been to France, but these pics would not convince me to go there . . . ."
True. 'Bleau could never compare with Seneca. You should stay home.
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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klk, read more carefully. I did not compare it to Seneca Rocks.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2009 - 03:18pm PT
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International boulder bump!
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
dangling off a wind turbine in a town near you
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A beautiful area, and humbling. I spent a month in Paris learning how to drill big holes in the seabed, only made to Font twice, got rained out on one of the trips.
Incredible scenery, friendly locals, and fun (if somewhat sandy) boulders.
Sort of reminded me of our homegrown shortstone in the southeast.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Fountainbleau, 1976
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2009 - 05:22pm PT
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Nice photo, Marty!
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klinefelter
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
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Fantastic photo. Got more?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2009 - 09:30pm PT
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Nice shots Wes! Those bumpy boulders in the middle of the show are amazing!
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Check out the paint on the boulder. not sure how hard the thing was. This was a trip where I started in the UK and failed on London Wall, remember yo yo wasnt allowed in the UK in those days, top roped White Wall, and did some other good things in the Peak district. I cannot believe that this Alex guy onsited without a rope, London Wall....geeze.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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tx 4 the pix wes.
i love elephant. all the parisians loathe the place, but f*#k 'em. plus chalet jobert across the street.
elephant noir and chalet jobert!
frickin heaven.
one of the very few places i might trade for the sierras.
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Barry Bates
Boulder climber
Smith River CA
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Peter H. said it right its definitely part of the puzzle. Always want to go there but have never been. I've talked to several people that have said the rock is similar to castle rock in the S. C. mountains sure looks that way in the photos.
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Barry Bates
Boulder climber
Smith River CA
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weschrist
thanks for the clarification
Barry
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Derek
climber
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I once spent an entire spring and summer climbing in France. I did tons of classic alpine routes, hit most of the legendary sport areas, detoured in to Switzerland and Italy for a couple-few weeks, etc. Along the way I met and climbed with great partners. It was among the greatest summers of my life.
My fondest memories of that trip are of wondering alone through the forest of the Bleu with a pair of shoes and a rosin bag. They didn't allow chalk in those days. Not sure if they do now as it's been a while. It is easily in the very top few climbing areas I've ever visited.
I'd go back to France just to climb at Font in a second.
-Derek
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Marty,
Nice shot.
Mike G. and I were there that same year that you went, 1976.
Also returned the next year with Rob Muir who took this shot.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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cool link klinefelter, what else you got in the archive?
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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It's nice to see shots of the climbing that are not magazine picks. Thanks to all.
All this only adds to the aura of those woods. Someday...
Wes -- appreciate the explanation of geology, even if it seems the mystery lingers. No pressure? I'll wait for your thesis to make it all clear. Then we shall address you as Doctor Bleau.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2009 - 05:56pm PT
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Perhaps Rgold has a few to share...
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Aug 23, 2009 - 07:36pm PT
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Ok Steve,
Here's one of Bob Williams from the late sixties cross-posted from Jello's '57 climbing thread
What is striking is the lack of chalk on the rock in those pre-chalk days. But what isn't visible is that the French use of rosin (pouf) was in some ways more defacing, because the rosin transferred seemingly permanent black stains from shoe rubber to footholds. Still, the awful white smears everywhere in the more recent photos is quite jarring.
Note too the little square of carpet ( le tapis ) that was a 'Bleau essential for keeping the sand off the soles of your shoes. In the other post I joking referred to it as an old-school crash pad.
Here's another one of Bob Williams. Note the white dot---I think we were on one of the circuits.
Fontainbleau is a truly magical area---I don't think any climber, no matter how peblophobic, could go there and not become entranced with bouldering. And ze french grimpeurs! Not only did we find them to be incredibly hospitable, but the checkered picnic cloths, the wine and cheese, and (ahem) bikini-clad bouldering babes were, how you say, fantastique!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2009 - 11:00am PT
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Thanks Rich!
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