Yosemite, New Routes?

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JEleazarian

Trad climber

Fresno CA

Nov 25, 2008 - 02:27am PT

Now that I'm back home and looked at my notes, I see our line was left of the line set forth in the Reid/Meyers guides, but it ended up near the start of Romantic Tension and Klingon. I'd even made a note about the possibilities for those two climbs. Unfortunately (in the climbing sense), I graduated from Cal a few months later, and went to work in the LA area. Climbing's been too part-time since then.

I would have to say, Bob, that probably was my bolt!

John

cragnshag

Social climber

san joser

Nov 25, 2008 - 04:31pm PT

Here are some recent photos of the Cookie Sheet.

Here's the best place to start the approach. You can also hike up and right past the Wave boulder (across from the cookie parking area).

Here's Ryan low on the approach talus field.

Here's Ryan starting up Darkside's polished granite with the lovely Erin belaying.

Who says bears can't climb?

The Chicago Bear enjoys grazing on munge and other cliff flora.

Looking down from the upper belay of Slipstream. This can be done as one long pitch (5.8 195' 11 bolts)

Here's a crack on the far right end of the Sheet. It forms the start of the first pitches of Red Bud and Air Line. After the mantle Red Bud goes up and left along another crack while Airline goes up and right anto a sea of mondo knobs.

All the routes at the Sheet are reasonably well protected for the grade- being put up by fairly reasonable working class climbers (no rock stars here). No death routes unless you really screw up. The nature of the rock is such that there is a lot of easy climbing between short cruxes- which is typically where the bolts are found. The slab on the right end of the Sheet is very sticky whereas some challenging polish is found on routes at the left end.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Nov 30, 2008 - 12:25am PT

If you click the image, you get it in an 8MB .tif file...

The Cookie Sheet, November 29, 2008

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Nov 30, 2008 - 12:55am PT

Nice, Ed. I'm sure Bob can draw the routes in on your photo.

Looks uncrowded!

Karl Baba

Trad climber

Yosemite, Ca

Nov 30, 2008 - 01:21am PT

Note that the first 50 yards of the approach are lined with poison oak. It's easy to avoid but since it's winter, you won't see the leaves so just don't brush the brush when you leave the car

peace

Karl

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Nov 30, 2008 - 04:11am PT

I'd say it's more like the first 40 feet from the road (starting from M-2 on the old Cookie road) where poison oak is near the trail. After that it's clean talus for quite a ways. When old Cookie road is covered by talus, I go left/down and around a big block. If you went right or something there, you might see poison oak that I didn't see.